I’m sure this has been asked a number of times so even a link to a previous thread would be helpful.
I’m curious as to the best way to remove a manufacturer’s decal, in this case, Aristo, from a loco or piece of rolling stock.
I was able to remove the decal from the back of an Aristo streamliner using alcohol and q-tips. But if you look really close, you can still see a bit of residue that still may be removable. This didn’t remove any of the paint.
The best intentions will leave a “shadow”. I have used multiple methods to remove lettering, but the ghost remains behind. I have had limited success using liquid 4000 grit. Rub gently, and keep checking. Then when happy, make sure to wash off all residue with soap and water, rinse well, repeat.
Just a clarification here. It sounds like we are talking more about pad printed lettering then decals. Decals being (usually) water slide plastic film with print on it, they are rather easy to soak off in water (usually). But pad printed lettering can be difficult, depending on what medium was used to print the lettering with. Sometime a form of ink is used, and that can usually be removed with isopropyl alcohol. If paint was used to pad print the lettering, then the solvent for that paint would need to be used, and that can damage the underlying paint. This is why many of us sand/buff the lettering off with very fine grit sandpaper.
I wiped off some of the lettering on my Aristo hopper with a rag just slightly dampened with acetone, and then I went back later with some very fine wet sandpaper and finished removing the lettering. I waited a bit before wet sanding, just in case the acetone had softened the base coat of paint.
Some use the Purple Super Clean from Wal=mart.
Tip : cotton ball saturated will help.
De-natured alcohol and a Q-tip will do some brands. Just have a wet towel handy and wipe it off as you go.
Simple Green took the decals off my Piko saddletankers, but wouldn’t budge the decals off my LGB or Aristo engines, Denatured Alcohol did as well as take of the paint! So be careful, I was planning a complete respray of the LGB and Aristo engine anyways so that wasn’t an issue for me.
Denatured Alcohol is strong stuff only use in a well ventilated space.
I’m also looking at doing a repaint so I’m not too worried about taking off original paint. My biggest concern is seeing the decal beneath the new paint.
Mark… If you’re going to repaint the model, you might try using wet/dry sand paper… Start with 250 take the top stuff off, followed by 600 , then finish with 1200 to polish… Prime, paint and re-letter… Works right slick…
Just a note, Mark… Most of the lettering on rolling stock is not a “decal”… It’s been pad painted with actual paint… Each manufacturer uses a different formula…
It gets to be a real guessing game to know what to use on which… 
I’ve never done an Aristo but I’ve had some experience with Bachmann. I also favor the Super Clean product.
http://tjstrains.com/154/removing-lettering-and-decals-b/
Best,
TJ
Stan Cedarleaf said:
Just a note, Mark… Most of the lettering on rolling stock is not a “decal”… It’s been pad painted with actual paint… Each manufacturer uses a different formula…
It gets to be a real guessing game to know what to use on which…
Stan, yea that’s what I was trying to say.
Thanks for all the advice, guys. I’m out on temporary disability due to surgery and it looks like I may not return to work until after the summer. I’m planning on swapping my couplers to Kadees as well and so, between the two projects, on a couple dozen pieces of rolling stock, I should have enough to keep me busy for a little bit of the summer.
Sometimes it works well to have markings partly removed , i.e. , you’ve used all your solvents and you are left with a contoured shadow of the marking .
I put this to good use whilst making a speeder , critter , or whatever you call it , the “it” in this case being a 1/24 scale Coca Cola van .
Spraying the new colour over the top of this leaves the Coca Cola sign visible (just) in bas relief .This happens in the real world when ownership changes , no doubt many of you have seen it .
So now , smart ass rivet counters comment on the rough finish leaving me to delightedly tell them it’s a converted coke van , can’t you read ? Tee hee .
Interestingly , ships usually have cast lettering for the name , and when going to new owners part of the original 1" thick steel letters are carried over to the new name , like “Mary Jane” becomes “Jane Russel” with “Mary” being painted over . I don’t think she minds .
Mark, sorry to hear that you are temporarily disabled. That kinda sucks. But I am glad to hear that you will be having fun playing trains while I am still working. And that also kinda sucks, the my still working part I mean.
Dave, thanks. Still a lot of years left before I can retire and putz around with the trains at my leisure. This will probably be through the summer and perhaps stretch into early fall. Better than it being January/February. I don’t do well with claustrophobia. At least now, I can get out in the morning and walk and later in the afternoon, just sit outside and watch the fish swim in the pond. That too is starting to get a bit boring, thus the repaint of the fleet and mounting of Kadee couplers on everything. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for years and now I’ll have the time.
I bought some of the “El Cheapo” RhB boxcars from Newqida. They need to be repainted and the printing has to come off first. I tried the usual (take your pick), not one would touch the printing and then remembered that I used Nevr Dull from Eagle One (available at your auto supply store) for such stubborn cases.
Here’s the partial result
(http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/NA-Fora/NevrDull_PrintRemoving_s.jpg)
Took some elbow grease since the “magic” ingredient evaporates over time (several years).
PS
HJ,
Did it remove any of the underlying paint? That might be a good tool for repainting road numbers.
Craig,
I’ll get a new one tomorrow and do the rest — with less rubbing — but as it looks right now all of it is gone i.e. no ghosting.