Large Scale Central

Red Baron Train Shed Build Log

General Discussion
#1

I started building the train shed for my railroad a month ago. The goal is to have a building big enough to house all my engines and cars on tracks and keep them safe from the weather and theft.

I built the foundation out of 2 2x6x16 pressure treated boards. I then attached 4x4 posts to the frame. Once the frame was built, I laid it in the approximate location holding it up with cinder blocks and leveling it.

I dug holes 2 feet down, put concrete forms in the holes and filled them with quick setting concrete and the metal post holders. This ensured the metal holders got in approximately the right location. I ended up being about an inch off but not in any direction I couldn’t compensate for.

The frame was covered with 1/2 inch plywood, since its only holding up the trains, and not people. All the wood was stained to keep it weather safe. Holes were drilled in for bolts and bolts were fitted into place to keep the frame down.

I am now have the walls built and a few braces.

Remaining Tasks

  • 1/2 plywood for walls.
  • Doors on both end that will slide up like a garage door
  • Low sloped roof.
  • Determine a good low slope roof material that I have access to that will look good.

Hinges will allow the roof to be lifted up. Two locks will be on it to keep it closed.

#2

Nice start!

#3

I need one of those!

#4

Yeah, what Sean said… ““nice Start””… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#5

Today I got the doors installed, and plywood up for the easy wall. The harder wall is the one facing the fence. Will need to move it off its foundation in order to install, finish that side.

#6

Today I got the doors installed, and plywood up for the easy wall. The harder wall is the one facing the fence. Will need to move it off its foundation in order to install, finish that side.

#7

Hmmm I would of gone with T-111 and stain it to match the fence…

#8

Going to make a nice size shed.

#9

great Idea, If I do one similar, I will probably have to insulate it, being in AZ and my location will be on the west side of the house where it will get sun from about 9to 3 , hottest part. Keep up the how to Nicolas

#10

Pete Lassen said:

great Idea, If I do one similar, I will probably have to insulate it, being in AZ and my location will be on the west side of the house where it will get sun from about 9to 3 , hottest part. Keep up the how to Nicolas

While I’m not up there in The Valley of the Singed, I’m pretty close in temp and I never bothered with the temp. A small fan to mix the air could be enough.

My walls are 2 1/2" thick planks. I made the top with corrugated plastic so it can breathe at the ends.

To save money, I used lathe metal Z flashing for the rails inside. My brad nailer popped right thru…

John

#11

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Hmmm I would of gone with T-111 and stain it to match the fence…

Nicolas, what’s your finish plan? I know you’re just getting the structure down right now, but in my opinion you can’t let the exterior design stand the way it is because it doesn’t fit anything and doesn’t look right.

It seems to me you have three choices that I can think of…(1) model it to make it look like a real 1:1 engine shed, which would probably be the best and nicest solution but it would take a heck of a lot of work to pull off, (2) stain it to match the fence as Sean says, or (3) I have another idea: use the identical fencing boards (including the same stain) to surface the sides and ends now that you have the structure built.

#12

I agree with John P that you should work on it a bit more to make it fit in with your yard or train theme. You could paint it to disguise it or paint it in your RR’s colours and hang a few RR related signs on it. How about making it look like a mini mountain and the entrance end could be a tunnel portal but how to do that and make it light weight enough for the top to lift open?

Otherwise it looks like a very sturdy box to store your trains in and having them ready to roll out sure beats carrying two at a time out of your house.

Will the box be spider and cricket proof?

#13

My goal is to very much try to make the building blend in as an extremely large rail warehouse/shed. I am using hardie board panels for siding which will be painted. I made compromised on the roof with its low slope to also help make it match a scale building. The overhang might still be a bit much. I am hoping to add some small details to it as well to make it blend in. Hmm…I should paint on some small doors perhaps. I am open to ideas.

Roofing material is the toughest as I need something that looks right in the scale but so far have not had luck finding anything good.

The first photo shows a moc of what the roof will look like, and the second photo shows the frame finished for the roof. It is all hinged for easy open. I will be attaching the plywood to the roof tomorrow, cutting the plywood for the two ends, wrapping it in house wrap and attaching the hardie board planels.

#14

Todd Haskins said:

Will the box be spider and cricket proof?

Hopefully but I am sure the odd spider will get in there anyways. Its mean to be as water proof/resistant as I can make it so hopefully also spider proof. We don’t really get crickets around here.

#15

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Hmmm I would of gone with T-111 and stain it to match the fence…

Hardie Panels will give me a somewhat smooth look which is why I chose it. Once painted I am hoping it will look like a really large building.

#16

Another google search shows that most of the sheds or stations that are as big as what I have built typically have arched roofs. Maybe some day I will re-do the roof and make it arched to match those buildings.

#17

Nice progress on the shed. So, are you going to make a split roof (2 separate hinged sections)? A single span might be awkward to open. Of course, then there would be a seam in the center to deal with. Looking forward to seeing more.

-Kevin.

#18

I heard it rains some up your way. I’d have the run off go to the fence, not into the middle of the yard.

Splitting could make an obstacle to reach over, hinges go next to the fence so it’s out of the way.

Carry on.

John

#19

Splitting could make an obstacle to reach over, hinges go next to the fence so it’s out of the way.

Carry on.

John

Split widthwise, not lengthwise. Both sections would have hinges on fence side. Carry on. -Kevin.

#20

Wot about diagonal, said he sheepishly… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)