Kevin is correct. It is split length wise resulting in 2 40" by 8’ sections. Even as one entire section i think it would be not hard to lift. I might join the two pieces together if I cannot find a good way to handle the seam in between to make it water tight.
Great work, Nicolas!
FWIW, my build was very similar, in footers & posts & framing.
Cliff
Yeah Cliff, but you don’t move near as fast as Nicolas does! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Greg
But faster then Devon.
Plywood sheathing is all installed. I had to add diagonal braces to the roof to improve rigidity. House wrap installed and one wall of siding is done.
Looks pretty good Nicolas. I think you could easily make that pass for a large industrial building.
Chirs
Siding is installed. Some caulking. Next up is applying flashing or trim to all the corners and edges.
Still not totally satisfied on a good roof covering solution.
How many tracks are you planning on the inside?(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Nicolas Teeuwen said:
Siding is installed. Some caulking. Next up is applying flashing or trim to all the corners and edges.
Still not totally satisfied on a good roof covering solution.
Thompson’s Water Seal, pro: excellent for keeping the water out, con: have to reseal at least every 2 years shady area, every year direct sunlight.
Rolled roofing and/or shingles. This might be a better choice since you have a split top. Have the shingles extend further out on one top section to overlap onto second. The architectural shingles would be good for this, as you can make a hidden seam, as it will look like a single lid when closed.
Mike Wlez said:
Nicolas Teeuwen said:
Siding is installed. Some caulking. Next up is applying flashing or trim to all the corners and edges.
Still not totally satisfied on a good roof covering solution.
Thompson’s Water Seal, pro: excellent for keeping the water out, con: have to reseal at least every 2 years shady area, every year direct sunlight.
Rolled roofing and/or shingles. This might be a better choice since you have a split top. Have the shingles extend further out on one top section to overlap onto second. The architectural shingles would be good for this, as you can make a hidden seam, as it will look like a single lid when closed.
Since it is under a 3" in 12" pitch (i.e flat) the shingles won’t work. Rolled or rubber will work.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Joe Zullo said:
How many tracks are you planning on the inside?(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
- Most of the switches will be out the back end to maximize storage.
My current roofing plan, and still sticking due to easy of install and potential longevity is to cover the roof with strips from Aluminum Rolled Flashing. The strips would overlap by about 6 inches and run length wise for each of the two halves. The bottom row would sit under the next higher row and so forth so that water runs down. I would nail the top corners and maybe in the middle, but use liquid nails or some sort of adhesive around the entire edge of each piece to seal it to the wood.
This is my thought but have not yet committed. Looked into full single sheets but they are harder to get and a lot more money.l
i would not glue, but nail only. that way any moisture can escape.
Korm Kormsen said:
i would not glue, but nail only. that way any moisture can escape.
Won’t water leak through the holes around the nails? I was also hoping to minimize the nails. I was gonna put them in the places of overlap, but the top row would have nails sticking out due to nothing overlapping there.
Did you pre-drill the nail holes?
If not, then they won’t leak and if water gets the nail wet the wood will absorb it and swell making the hole tighter.
Handy note: If your nails are splitting the wood, flatten the tips by hitting with the hammer several times. Prop on a hard surface and use more blows than force so you don’t bend them.
Railroad Connection!
Same reason spikes are chisel cut across the grain, the flattened tip cuts the fibers instead of splitting between them.
Where there is no backing use screws and nuts w a washer on either side.
Happy Rails
John
Greg Elmassian said:
Yeah Cliff, but you don’t move near as fast as Nicolas does! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Greg
I sure don’t!
Nicolas sure looks young, energetic and motivated.
But I’m armed with my AARP card. And maybe there’s an age equivalency calculator out there…
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
David Marconi, FOGWH said:
Since it is under a 3" in 12" pitch (i.e flat) the shingles won’t work. Rolled or rubber will work.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
What Hollywood / Mr Marconi said.
It’s all looking great Nicolas!
you could try “roofnails”
the older model has some lead founded around the head, the newer have rubber-washers.
Obtaining material for a rubber roof is proving challenging/expensive. I could get a pond liner as they seem to be similar material but they only seem to be uv resistant. Going to probably still go with the layered 20" flashing and nails.
The shed is nearly complete. I will have updates to its construction but once I began painting I decided to save it until it is finished. An engine is currently being stored in it overnight.
I am looking for suggestions on material/process to fill in the area around the rails near the doors. I want to fill in this area, similar to area filled in at rail crossings, to keep water out of the shed. See the attached photos. Suggestions on material, and spacers to use to ensure there is clearance for the wheels.