Large Scale Central

Rebuild the rr looking for ideas

Track and Trestles
#1

I am rebuilding my RR after our move, going to elevate it, looking for a couple ideas

  1. what to put on top, plywood,plastic, metal

  2. if i use plywood, what to piant or stain it with, worried about when it rains and the water just sits on top,

i finally have a flat piece of ground, have lots but dont want to get to big, maybe 12-15 wide by 40-60 long, looking for track plans also, want 2 loops with a few turnouts

hard to describe but picture square piece of ground going straight back from back of house, on the outside edge i have landscape block walls going from about 7ft down to 2 ft, so i was going to use the landscape block wall on one side, want to keep it flat about 2-4 ft in the air like a bench, but have to be able to reach stuff,

any ideas would help, thanks

tom h

#2

Stay away from plywood!

http://www.aristocraftforum.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=19319

Take a look here…
2X6 frame with 2x4 16 oc with 1" foam board on top with rolled roofing for the covering… works great easy to clean off…

email me if you need more info.

#3

Also hunt up the article on the Port Orford Coast RR. I am sure someone here will chime in with a link. I have a copy of the PDF, but not sure if it is ok to post a link from my web site.

Bob C.

#4

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC%20RR/POC_Main_Pt-1.pdf

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC%20RR/POC_Main_Pt-2.pdf

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC%20RR/POC_Main_Pt-3.pdf

#5

Tom, the POC is a good idea. You might want to check ou the artical in the GR on the Dunckley Northern Railway by John Morrison in the June 2008 issue. He has since raised his RR up to save the old back. Now to find that issue! Found it, August 2012m Pg. 38. Check out how John raised his up. Mine is more on POC lines, lots of PT wood 2x and 4x.

Paul

#6

Tom,

There are a number of variations on a theme to raise a railroad, mine is just one of them. Should you choose to use a system such as mine please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I will be most pleased to help any way I can.

In the meantime you might want to check out Steve Seitel’s method up in Montana, Dave Goodson’s in Washington or the IPP&W railroad of Fred Mills up in Canada. Some great ideas there too. Hopefully they will weigh in.

#7

May I suggest that you explore the website of the Ottawa Valley Gareden Railway Society.

Many of the layouts are raised and survive sometimes rough winters.

#8

Richard I know my ‘next’ RR will be something along the lines of yours. We all get old and tired of crawling around in the dirt. What would you say is the average height of your RR end to end? Sometimes I like to sit in the ‘pondering chair’ and just watch the train(s) go by.

#9
Randy McDonald said:
Richard I know my 'next' RR will be something along the lines of yours. We all get old and tired of crawling around in the dirt. What would you say is the average height of your RR end to end? Sometimes I like to sit in the 'pondering chair' and just watch the train(s) go by.
Randy,

My railroad is a nominal 42" in height. This varies a bit of course (probably about 36" to 50") because of the general landscape and keeping the railroad level, most important for switching ops. Even then I have one section of mainline where the benchwork is terraced down for a 2% grade on the track.

Unless your area is completely flat it should be possible to build a fairly level railroad with at least one section low enough, perhaps 30" or so, that would provide a convenient spot for that ol’ easy chair. :wink: I do most of my pondering standing up. The leaning rail on the operator’s side of the benchwork provides a most comfortable place to ponder as well as to take photos.

40" to 42" though is a comfortable height for most people to operate. Even the occasional live steam visitor enjoys the height. Too, since on the POC the engineer follows his train along to perform switching ops and to throw switches a standing/walking height is the most convenient all around.

#10

If I was going to start and build an elevated railroad, I do believe I’d follow along with the Canadian groups OVGRS way of building a raised railroad…

Just my 2 cents worth…

#11

Thanks Richard…I was thinking about 42" as well. Comfortable enough to follow your train and still low enough to sit in a chair and view at about eye level.

#12

Thanks for the tips, Rick how high is the OVGRR, I will scratch off plywood, last time I did use PVC pounded in the ground 24In, not doing that this time, to many sprinkler lines that I dont know where they are, my biggest problem is how to lay out the design so I can get to it, I dont want a point to point I run more modern, but really like how Richard built his, always have been a big fan of his idea of bench work, i might make it narrower and just make the loop at each end with space so I can get to stuff, that is the question also, make it high enough not to bend over, low enough to maybe get over it, really struggling with this part of design in the yard, got all winter, but want to start buying things to get ready, already was going to get cement blocks for 50 cents a piece, cheap enough for a base in a lot of areas, but also want to get 4x4`s this winter.

Thanks for any idea that comes to you.

Tom H

#13

I’ve got a hybrid, both ends of the point to point are elevated, the part in the garage is 58" from floor to railhead, the next section (outside) is still elevated, 37" from ground to railhead then it dips a few inches and joins the side of the hill running on the ground using ladder roadbed. At the other end it is elevated again.
The short of the long story, I don’t carry rolling stock around, the ends of the line are high enough to clearly see what’s happening e.g. during switching etc. In between there is real landscape; the plan is to get it to look as close to the proto as is practical in 1:22.5 in the garden. Complete with mini-scenes like they do in the smaller scales.

#14

http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=17243

#15
tom huisenga said:
Thanks for the tips, Rick how high is the OVGRR, I will scratch off plywood, last time I did use PVC pounded in the ground 24In, not doing that this time, to many sprinkler lines that I dont know where they are, my biggest problem is how to lay out the design so I can get to it, I dont want a point to point I run more modern, but really like how Richard built his, always have been a big fan of his idea of bench work, i might make it narrower and just make the loop at each end with space so I can get to stuff, that is the question also, make it high enough not to bend over, low enough to maybe get over it, really struggling with this part of design in the yard, got all winter, but want to start buying things to get ready, already was going to get cement blocks for 50 cents a piece, cheap enough for a base in a lot of areas, but also want to get 4x4`s this winter.

Thanks for any idea that comes to you.

Tom H


All types of heights from waste high down to the ground to walk over.

#16

OVGRS… ground level…

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202011/Freds032.jpg)

Knee high…

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202011/Freds031.jpg)

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202011/Freds024.jpg)

Waist high…

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202011/Freds007.jpg)

#17
tom huisenga said:
...make it high enough not to bend over, low enough to maybe get over it, really struggling with this part of design in the yard...Tom H
If you can get over it, it's too low!:cool:

I started on the ground, raised it year by year to where it’s now knee-waist height, am in process of going higher still - that 40-42" that the other guys here have mentioned seems about right to me.

Unless you’re just watching trains tiptoe thru the tulips, but I’d bet you’d get tired of that PDQ…

#18
tom huisenga said:
Thanks for the tips, Rick how high is the OVGRR, I will scratch off plywood, last time I did use PVC pounded in the ground 24In, not doing that this time, to many sprinkler lines that I dont know where they are, my biggest problem is how to lay out the design so I can get to it, I dont want a point to point I run more modern, but really like how Richard built his, always have been a big fan of his idea of bench work, i might make it narrower and just make the loop at each end with space so I can get to stuff, that is the question also, make it high enough not to bend over, low enough to maybe get over it, really struggling with this part of design in the yard, got all winter, but want to start buying things to get ready, already was going to get cement blocks for 50 cents a piece, cheap enough for a base in a lot of areas, but also want to get 4x4`s this winter.

Thanks for any idea that comes to you.

Tom H


[b]Couple of ways to do it come to mind.

  1. A donut shape with steps/bridge over the layout at one spot and paving stones in the middle with a small picnic type table in the center at which to sit and make adjustments and minor repairs as well as to just sit, sip mint julips and watch the trains. Benchwork could be upwards of six feet wide all around so long as track is within reasonable reach (about 30" maximum from edge). The remaining space for scenery or double sided structures to divide the benchwork in two. A double track mainline could easily be configured to go completely around twice and scenicked to keep the two edges separate to the observer and to operate from both sides of the layout or just let 'em run.

For example a depot could be built between the two sets of tracks with a different town name on each side to represent two separate locations with the same depot. A whole town could be built this way with different “front facades” on each side. A power house could butt up against a bit of high terrain where loaded coal hoppers could be pushed into an unloading structure and come out on the other side at a coal mine as loaded cars there with empties on a second track pulled out for a return circuit to the mine. Get the idea? A continuous circuit of empties to the mine and loads pulled out for the power house (or other destination) and you’ll never have to empty or load a hopper car.

And of course some areas will be divided simply with scenery using ridgelines and maybe a tree line here and there to obscure the other side somewhat. Doesn’t need to be completely blocked, just obscured a bit.

  1. The same idea could be used around the fence line (don’t attach to the fence) with a lift or removeable bridge(s) for entry. A three foot wide benchwork around the perimeter would keep the center of the yard free for the family pooch, etc.

I’m sure there are a number of other options too.[/b]

#19

Richard, that was a good post. How come no attachment to the fence, IYHO?

#20

Very interesting Richard, thanks for some really good ideas, going to try to lay something out this weekend just to see…

Tom H