I am looking at the option of raising my entire layoutabout 3 feet off the ground. Is there anyone out there that has done this? What are your opinions on this option?
Oh, lotsa people. Fred Mills, Bruce Chandler’s is raised in spots, Bart Salmons, Richard Smith out in Oregon, Dave Goodsen out in Washington, plus a host of others. I’m sure they’ll all chime in with plenty of do’s and don’ts…
Jason,
Mine is raised for a bunch of reasons.
Too hard to get down on the ground to work, put cars on, or any other thing.
I don’t want to look at the roofs of my rolling stock all the time.
You can put in all kinds of bridges, canyons, trestles, etc.
And so on…
jb
Jason:
My railhead is raised (on earth fill) about 16" to 20" above pathways and standing areas, and the track is approximately level on most of the layout. Much better that on the flat, but your suggested 3’ sounds even better!
Richard Smith’s freestanding bench-work layout is one my favorites.
Are you thinking bench-work or excavation / fill? At 3’ high, a layout of any size would take a lot of excavation or fill!
Happy RRing,
Jerry
I was thinking of raising it with frame work. Like a table top layout. I am also looking at making in modular form in 4ft square tops that bolt together. This would allow me assemble it in my workshop and piece together on site. Maybe also allow me to move to alternate locations.
Raising is nice for working on the railroad. My yard is raised and it makes it a lot easier to switch there. I’ve got my staging loop raised as well, but it’s pretty bare bones and ugly. No scenery or anything - just a place for the loco to fall off.
I do like the look of it running on ground level through the garden, but raising wasn’t an option for me, so I have to like the look. 
My concern for raising is the fill required. Though if you want realistic scenery, you can go the path of Richard Smith and use the free standing benchwork. It’s great to be “IN” the railroad.
Bruce Chandler said:I have a loco that is experienced at falling off bench work. I can send it down to to to test with :D
Raising is nice for working on the railroad. My yard is raised and it makes it a lot easier to switch there. I've got my staging loop raised as well, but it's pretty bare bones and ugly. No scenery or anything - just a place for the loco to fall off. ;)
we have a combination of raised and ground level, it just happened in response to the terrain. If I were starting from scratch I’d design for it and I’d have a lot of track at three feet or above. It looks good and it’s easier to deal with
I am looking at a dog bone with some switching incorporated. One of my issues will be a 10ft curve on each end will cover a large amount of real estate. Raising an entire layout with wood framing might post more issues than I anticipated. Then again raising it with stone work and earth is costly and so permanent.
I have been searching high and low for pictures of an entire layout raised with wood but not finding much out there. Lots of people raise just there track. The more I look into it the more frustrated I seem to get…lol…
Jason -
You could treat the large loops as trestles, or just high bridges with no scenery at track level, then build up just the center portion either on bench work, or with earth fill and have your switching and scenics in the center.
The loops could be just ladder roadbed supported on pipe until you can build some bridges of trestles to dress it up.
That sounds like a good idea. Then I can wrap the loop around a Tree and use more of my yard. I will try to do up a drawing of my yard with dimensions. I may also be able to run the second loop inside my shed.
This will give you some idea of what Richard Smith has done in Oregon.
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Oregon%202006/portorf04.jpg)
This is a part of Fred Mill’s layout in Ottawa.
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202008/invasion2008_00019.jpg)
(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Invasion%202008/invasion2008_00020.jpg)
OK beginners question? How many pieces of 8ft dia track does it take to make a full circle and how many 10ft pieces? I found a layout that I want to modify but need this information to see if I can do it. The layout would be something like this one.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/navytech/_forumfiles/outdoorg.gif)
I am just not sure of what the numbers mean on this diagram and whether it is the right scale.
Jason if I were build again I would elevate as Richard Smith has . For having to build as inexpensive as we could 11 years ago , we used landscaoe timbers , built 3 feet high [12 timbers ] and made it 16 foot by 40 foot , with the center open for access , access , access . Filled the structure with 38 tons of pea gravel which filled it too 2 feet high , Then industrail landscape barrier , and then a foot of dirt . Stone is better than timbers , but how long are you going to live anyway ? Gazebo and garage with storage yard and layout end past the Gazebo
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/2007layout/gaz&gar07.JPG)
from other end
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/2007layout/westendlayout07.JPG)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/2007layout/NWviewingSE07.JPG)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/2007layout/EASTviewSOUTHw07.JPG)
Operating trains at eye level while seated , maintaining them , and operating turnouts and couplers , while switching at waist level , while standing , …is my idea of ideal . Goodluck in your decision and have fun .
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/dennispaulson/DRy%20posting%20pics/LGB%20CSL.JPG)
Jason, I just started my raised layout ala the Richard Smith system. My yard has a very steep drop of 5 feet over a 40 foot length. What I did was make the lowest point 4 feet off the ground and ran it back level to the highest point which I made at ground level. That way my platforms run from ground level to 4 feet off the ground but the top is level. It makes the layout look like the train is going up and down while it is really running level. Look up Richard Smiths article on how he made his layout. He does a great job with pictures and explanations. I made my platforms from 2x4 treated lumber 8 feet long, which is the least expensive treated you can buy because of the high volume they produce. I made modules that are 4 feet wide by 8 feet long with cross braces every 16" on center just like a standard house wall construction. I only need to go 2 feet deep in my area for the frost line. I put a 4x4 pressure treated post in each corner and a 2x4 post in the middle of each 8 foot side for support. I just fill the hole around the post with grave with sharp corners, no cement. The platforms are very sturdy and I can walk on them without them shaking and I weigh 280, enough said. The next platform is screwed to the end of the first one and you do not have to install the 4x4 post legs on that end of the platform. That way you only need two 4x4 and two 2x4 legs on each additional platform. When I want to make a curve I just angle the next platform when I install it. I fill in the wedge section between the two platforms with 2x4 cross pieces. It makes a very nice looking arrangement when you are finished. I have a minimum of 5 foot radius curves with some at 8 foot radius. I am taking pictures of each step as I work on the layout. When I learn how to post pictures I will do an article on everything from start to finish. The work goes very fast once you get started making the platforms like on an assembly line. I made 40 platforms in January in my basement and stacked them up. I started installing them in May and I now have 36 set up in the back yard. I have the screen on most of them and am just starting to put on the lanscape fabric and top 2x4 rails. I hope to have my first train runniing before Thanksgiving. I am convinced that Richard’s system is the easiest and least expensive way to elevate your railroad and still have the ability to put landscaping and structures on the table top.
Jason, Here’s a photo that pretty much shows everything involved in the way I construct benchwork for outdoors.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/RichardSmith/RRConstruction/107Aug15ShowsAll-Web.JPG)
Here’s a shot of one of the latest areas being worked on.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/richardsmith/2008/264-ViewSouth-Figure-13Jul08-Web.JPG)
If this looks interesting to you Steve Conkle did a most comprehensive PDF file on the RR’s construction. It is available free for reading or access at… http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/POC%20RR/POC_Main.pdf Warning: This is a very large file in case you’re on dialup. This is one way to do it but not the only way. 
Dennis,
That sure is a nice looking railroad.
Jason,
my railroad is raised by 24 inches, being much more civilised when placing rolling stock or heavy locomotives on the rail. Railroad encompasses both raised garden beds and trestles and bridges. Check several postings on You-Tube for idea - profile name Gscalenut
Andy C. and I had a chance to visit Dennis Paulson’s layout with our wives in June. He has one of the best deceptive railroads I’ve ever seen. Dennis has limited his photos to very controlled shots to never show the whole concept or height of his railroad. But since he showed some pictures, I have some to share, also.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20004.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20005.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20007.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20008.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20009.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20010.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20011.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/080608%20012.jpg)
A couple of the pictures show the actual height and size of the layout. Plenty of trackage layed out in a true traction line size.
See what happens when you let someone look behind the curtain , ha ha ha …
I wondered if your photos had worked , because it was raining when you guys were here .
Thanks for the kind comments gents .
Its all for the fun of it , and it’s as much as Helen and I can maintain .