Large Scale Central

Raise trackwork--best plan?

Track and Trestles
#29

Here is where we are at.

Alum rail and battery power–no idea what control system yet

ladder system with electrical pvc

questions:

  1. What goes on top of the ladders. The article says track can be affixed directly to the ladder, ok but what about ballast. Do i need to put a layer of screen in between to hold the ballast up–or what is the consensus. Or do some people forgo ballasting altogether.

The original goal was to reach the front yard–where i would have a loop around a small portion of the front yard and maybe a small yard for sweitching, Problem is it means a 48 inch vertical climb.

Meaning:
200ft of track at 2% grade
133ft at 3%

100ft at 4%

I plan to run smaller trains–so 4% isn’t really a problem for me, (Besides, I don’t have any larger engines to pull much anyways at this point) But eventually as the empire builds I would like to have other people over to visit and run what we will call the “mountain division”. Would 4% be “ok” for others to run on or would that be a turn off. Are there any engines that won’t handle a 4% grade

Another question–of course, larger is better, but to allow the largest engine out there to navigate the railroad, what is the minimum radius I should stick to.

Thanks for the help!!

#30

Ballast is more for looks than actually doing anything, and tends to cause problems like washing away, piling up where ya dont want it and getting into switches and needing to be cleaned out…If ya really want ballast go with a PT 2X style construction and put dams down the side of each piece of wood to hold it…otherwise let it go au natural…

#31

I like the look of ballast but don’t disagree with Bart’s statement. Using ballast adds significantly to the amount of maintenance. That being said all but about 50 feet of my railroad is ballasted.

Some of that ballasted track is mounted on PVC ladder. The earth is built up over the ladder with ballast on top. I’ll see if I can find the thread where I re-did Coal Dump Curve using ladder and post a link here.

4% is probably OK for most locos out there. The grade may limit the train length some. I have a curving grade that even with my best efforts to reduce the grade still approaches 6% in spots.

#32

Here is the thread. Lots of extraneous information. Ladder photos begin on page 3.

http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/15149/easing-the-grade-on-coal-dump-cu

#33

Matt Kerr said:

Here is where we are at.

Alum rail and battery power–no idea what control system yet

ladder system with electrical pvc

questions:

  1. What goes on top of the ladders. The article says track can be affixed directly to the ladder, ok but what about ballast. Do i need to put a layer of screen in between to hold the ballast up–or what is the consensus. Or do some people forgo ballasting altogether.

Put the track right on the ladder. Step by step on our layout starting on http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/html/ground_level_2.html

1:1 railroads in the mountains try to balance “cut and fill” operations. In our case that means earth/gravel mix to within 4" of the ladder, then 2" of coarse crusher followed by crusher fines, the actual ballast is/ will be a mix of chicken grit.

PS on the track and power. Started out with Code 215 brass, then that source dried up and I switched to c215 nickel silver (Llagas Creek). Control is ZIMO DCC with a mix of additional components from various sources to get the results I want.

#34

Matt Kerr said:

Another question–of course, larger is better, but to allow the largest engine out there to navigate the railroad, what is the minimum radius I should stick to.

Thanks for the help!!

#35

Matt,

The simple answer is as wide as you can.

The complicated answer is what are you planning on running now and into the future. I can say that there are some equipment that has a 4 ft minimum radius (8 ft diameter). Some will tell you that equipment can run on smaller radius and it can, but that is what the Manufacturer recommends.

That said, do what you can and enjoy what you’ve done.

#36

not sure what i will have in the future–but i want others to be able to come and enjoy the railraod. So I want to plan for that if I can. Would “most” equipment run on 8?

Again, thanks guys–I really appreciate the help!

#37

Matt Kerr said:

not sure what i will have in the future–but i want others to be able to come and enjoy the railraod. So I want to plan for that if I can. Would “most” equipment run on 8?

Again, thanks guys–I really appreciate the help!

10ft (5ft radius) is better if you can swing it.

#38

Its always best to use the widest radius that you can fit into your landscape, Matt.

#39

I would a huge majority of stuff will fit on an 8 ft diameter curve. However, like HJ and Steve said, if you can go wider then do it. But dont let that be a “hang-up” on building your railroad. You can enjoy it with smaller radius too.

#40

Jake Smith said:

I would a huge majority of stuff will fit on an 8 ft diameter curve. However, like HJ and Steve said, if you can go wider then do it. But dont let that be a “hang-up” on building your railroad. You can enjoy it with smaller radius too.

This is true. The first thing is to get some track down, then adjust your fire as necessary.

#41

Hi, Steve. I also have tried to access the 3 pdf files on Richard Smith’s magnificant Port Orford Coast Railroad that you recommended to Matt Kerr on Dec 5, 2013 with no success. I was in awe of his work several years ago and have been trying to go back with no luck. The only link that I have been able to find is with the mylargescale.com site which seems to have shut down its archives. Is there any way or anyone that has access to Port Orford RWY Parts 1, 2, and 3 and/or could it be emailed from anyones’ computer? I would really appreciate anybody’s help! This raised platform railroad masterpiece is a marvel to look at and has a goldmine of information. A cool video can be accessed on youtube: Rick’s RR.mpg. Matt, this video is definately worth the view. I had to let you know sice we are neighbors. I’m in Burgettstown.

#42

Hey Mark

Richard is on the site (and active, i just got an email from him a couple of days ago), so Im sure he’ll see this thread and reply.

#43

Jon Radder said:

Matt Kerr said:

For some reason I cannot get PDF’s to open–the first 3 links

The links are good, but the files are bad.

This is all three parts together (large file) http://lsc.cvsry.com/POC_Elevated_Benchwork.pdf

This link above still works.

#44

Yes, that link works for me as well. It’s a very well done document; thanks for hosting it, Jon.

#45

Jon, Thank you so much. This link works great. This is definitely a keeper

#46

Nice PDF work!

#47

Hi Matt

I have been following this thread and added 2 cents early on. I like the advice given but I think you should still consider track power with brass track. I have about 600 feet of brass track down now all over my yard. I started small and built up as track became available in the used market. True that brass track is pricey but it is fine to run your electric trains on. Yes Stainless is better but expensive. What I like about track power is that you can run right out of the box and you don’t need to buy and install electronics. It does tarnish but a quick once over with a scotchbrite pad on a pole sander will have you running smoothly. Also nice about brass code332 track is it is tuff. In most cases Animals and people can step on it without damaging it. Rail joiners will work and as hobby money becomes available you can add rail clamps. Rail clamps are great to use around switches so you can pull them out for maintenance without disturbing the surrounding track.

You mention having grades in your yard. My RR is built on a sloping yard which was a pain when I was building it with keeping the grades managable but it sure adds interest. Where most of my RR is on the ground this section that I built last Spring is on a bench. About 20 feet away the track is back on the ground. That is how much it slopes off.


If you plan on building benches don’t forget the cost involved with that before you even put track on it. It is really nice to see your trains at near eye level VS watching roofs glide by your feet. If your yard is pitched why not pick a high spot where your track will be at ground level then as the ground falls away keep your track level with benches, ladder bed and bridges connecting them.

One thing you don’t want to do is limit yourself from the start so use the widest curves you can fit in. Overall I would suggest starting small and get something running this Spring. You could even do a point to point.
Happy RRing

#48

Thanks for the timely post - between my aging back, the daughter’s St Bernard, tentative moving upon retirement, etc. we have been considering raising our layout. This is going to require some serious thought. Looking forward to reading much more.