Large Scale Central

Raise trackwork--best plan?

Hi, Steve. I also have tried to access the 3 pdf files on Richard Smith’s magnificant Port Orford Coast Railroad that you recommended to Matt Kerr on Dec 5, 2013 with no success. I was in awe of his work several years ago and have been trying to go back with no luck. The only link that I have been able to find is with the mylargescale.com site which seems to have shut down its archives. Is there any way or anyone that has access to Port Orford RWY Parts 1, 2, and 3 and/or could it be emailed from anyones’ computer? I would really appreciate anybody’s help! This raised platform railroad masterpiece is a marvel to look at and has a goldmine of information. A cool video can be accessed on youtube: Rick’s RR.mpg. Matt, this video is definately worth the view. I had to let you know sice we are neighbors. I’m in Burgettstown.

Hey Mark

Richard is on the site (and active, i just got an email from him a couple of days ago), so Im sure he’ll see this thread and reply.

Jon Radder said:

Matt Kerr said:

For some reason I cannot get PDF’s to open–the first 3 links

The links are good, but the files are bad.

This is all three parts together (large file) http://lsc.cvsry.com/POC_Elevated_Benchwork.pdf

This link above still works.

Yes, that link works for me as well. It’s a very well done document; thanks for hosting it, Jon.

Jon, Thank you so much. This link works great. This is definitely a keeper

Nice PDF work!

Hi Matt

I have been following this thread and added 2 cents early on. I like the advice given but I think you should still consider track power with brass track. I have about 600 feet of brass track down now all over my yard. I started small and built up as track became available in the used market. True that brass track is pricey but it is fine to run your electric trains on. Yes Stainless is better but expensive. What I like about track power is that you can run right out of the box and you don’t need to buy and install electronics. It does tarnish but a quick once over with a scotchbrite pad on a pole sander will have you running smoothly. Also nice about brass code332 track is it is tuff. In most cases Animals and people can step on it without damaging it. Rail joiners will work and as hobby money becomes available you can add rail clamps. Rail clamps are great to use around switches so you can pull them out for maintenance without disturbing the surrounding track.

You mention having grades in your yard. My RR is built on a sloping yard which was a pain when I was building it with keeping the grades managable but it sure adds interest. Where most of my RR is on the ground this section that I built last Spring is on a bench. About 20 feet away the track is back on the ground. That is how much it slopes off.


If you plan on building benches don’t forget the cost involved with that before you even put track on it. It is really nice to see your trains at near eye level VS watching roofs glide by your feet. If your yard is pitched why not pick a high spot where your track will be at ground level then as the ground falls away keep your track level with benches, ladder bed and bridges connecting them.

One thing you don’t want to do is limit yourself from the start so use the widest curves you can fit in. Overall I would suggest starting small and get something running this Spring. You could even do a point to point.
Happy RRing

Thanks for the timely post - between my aging back, the daughter’s St Bernard, tentative moving upon retirement, etc. we have been considering raising our layout. This is going to require some serious thought. Looking forward to reading much more.

Jon Radder said:

Jon Radder said:

Matt Kerr said:

For some reason I cannot get PDF’s to open–the first 3 links

The links are good, but the files are bad.

This is all three parts together (large file) http://lsc.cvsry.com/POC_Elevated_Benchwork.pdf

This link above still works.

Thanks Jon for posting the link. Sorry to all that couldn’t find working links. Like everybody else my links don’t work either. Ever since This site was mugged a few years ago I’ve lost a lot of links to my own stuff. I do have a PDF on my old computer that I could probably email if I had an address. Meanwhile if you contact Steve Conkle over on MLS I’m sure he could give a good link. I hope to get everything over to the new computer shortly and that will make things a bit easier.

In the meantime I’d be pleased to answer any questions I can either on site here or email me: [email protected]

The idea has been raised here about fitting raised roadbeds into the landscape. This is what I’ve done. The landscape raises to meet the roadbed, then drops away, after awhile.

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/61/aa/01/1a7b8_a5d3.jpg)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/63/aa/01/1a7ba_11db.jpg)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/67/aa/01/1a7be_7763.jpg)

And, on the other end…

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/7d/aa/01/1a7d4_a6a1.jpg)

Matt,

I think Todd’s advice is the best for getting started. If you can swing it, get the brass track and just plan on a little more maintenance. Then as funds become available, look into converting to Batt/RC. The beauty of that idea is you dont have to change the track.

It’s nice to see your layout Steve. How many feet of track is it overall?

Do you have a track plan picture?

Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

It’s nice to see your layout Steve. How many feet of track is it overall?

Do you have a track plan picture?

Greg

I haven’t really taken a tape to measure it, but I suppose that there is perhaps 300-350 ft of mainline.

Click here for the complete tour. Scroll down a bit. This is a point to loop to point. The loop is perhaps 20 x 60 ft. When these photos were taken, the ground had just dried out so that I didn’t sink to my ankles. I had yet to set out any buildings. I take everything in for the winter, not because of the snow and ice, but because of the wind, which can gust to 60+ kts.

does your mainline cross into your neighbor’s property, or is that fence for a different reason?

Is the “end of track” still that bare structure, or, is there a yard there now?

Thanks Steve, always wondered how it was set up, nice broad curves.

Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

does your mainline cross into your neighbor’s property, or is that fence for a different reason?

Is the “end of track” still that bare structure, or, is there a yard there now?

Thanks Steve, always wondered how it was set up, nice broad curves.

Greg

The railroad passes through SWMBO’s vegetable garden. The fence is there to keep unwanted critters out.

I didn’t get much done last year. Life interfered. I have enough switches built to make headway, now, though.

So will it remain PTP or will you eventually complete the loop?

Regards, Greg

Greg, that loop is complete. It is a point to loop to point. This way, I can have the best of both worlds. Actually, the loop was finished first, so I could run trains while the build continued.

Richard, Thank you for your generous offer to field questions about your fantastic Port Orford Coast Railway. Jon’s (almost instantaneous and appreciated) response with his working link re-aquainted me with your magnificent outdoor creation. And the documentation of your “experiment” is equally inspiring. Every one of the 196 pages is entertaining yet full of the details of the hobby that us guys just can"t get enough of. The pictures truely are worth a thousand words! You have definately set a standard with this one! Thank you so much for sharing it with us.