Dick, I’ve found if I put one side of the clamp on a rail and tighten it down, the other doesn’t seem to want to do that roll problem you mentioned.
I cut a small rectangle of wood that fits between the ties.
I then snug it up under the rail ends with the rail clamp sitting on it.
I push down lightly on the rails to seat them in the clamp and tighten.
It solves both the problem of one of parts of the clamp shifting and the rail clamp itself from shifting.
I’ve been using the PRO-LINE clamps from TRAIN-Li - I have been very satisfied,to date, and they come with a piece that you can solder jumpers to. The top screws make installing pretty simple.
for like rail (lgb to lgb etc) i will use anything, such as stuff i pick up at the flea markets… for mis-match, i use split jaws… doug i like the block of wood idea.
There is no conclusive answer to this thread as yet. There are many observations based on trials which constitute anecdotal evidence. Some of the anecdotal evidence is conclusive but not supported by careful analysis. I have been working on this issue for two years and hope to have more substantive information available in late March 2014 (perhaps at ECLSTS) regarding the numerous connecting methods (12) that are used in this hobby. Look for a possible presentation at ECLSTS or a booklet published.
Respectfully,
NYC Buff
don’t over think it, just run trains.
Gordon,
don’t forget the isolated connections!
I am not sure there will be a “conclusion” to this thread. Most likely there might be a list of “best practices” that will work for some individuals most of the time.
In my own experience, I’ve found that slip joiners work fine indoors or outdoors for short periods of time before the lose their grip. Clamps work much better, but my preference is to remove the original slip joiner and put the clamp directly on the rail.
Soldering jumper wires around slip joiners works, but I find that soldering in the dirt is not fun – especially if it’s become mud. And then, when you take up the track, cutting and or desoldering the joints becomes difficult.
Clamps are expensive unless you can find some used ones. That’s one more reason that a Club is worth the dues!
All of the eleven (11) current designs have one (1) or more design “flaws” that effect many of the customer expectations for large scale rail clamps. The design process for each design class or individual was deficient in some manner leading to these “flaws.”
Look for more information at or post ECLSTS.
Respectfully,
NYC Buff
The Hillman site is not working, anyone have any idea when it will in ooperation, or is it gone now for good? Page is there, but you can’t place an order.
Since I started this thread, the question of connector preference has been answered for me – at least until I prove myself in error.
Our layout has Hillman, Split-Jaw, soldered jumpers with standard brass (supplied) track connectors, plus the San Val (Al Kramer website) “Conductor” as the over-the-connector 4-screw clamp. The most promising, apart from “authenticity,” clamp for me is the “Conductor” plate with the four screws. The screws are stainless machine tool grade and the outcome is four severely tightened screws compressing standard brass connecting sleeves to the freshly cleaned rail. Those four compression point screws attached to the base plate literally crush the connectors into the rail footing.
We will see.
The comparison of clamp methodology will hopefully be obvious as time passes.
Wendell
Hillman site is there, but you try to place an order and it won’t work.
I stocked up on Hillman’s a few years back, when Silvergate was selling them in bulk packages. From time to time I have one break. Also, I still have a few joints with the olde Aristo rail joiners. As one fails, it gets replaced with a new Hillman clamp. So far, the only problems I have had with the Hillman’s, is the occasional breakage of one.
Over the years I have used both split jaw over the rail joiner and ones direct to the rail. I have had good results and I DCC.
Jerry Are you looking for some Hillman joiners? I have the ones for over the rail joint. Later RJD
Jerry, I have several dozen (used) Hillman clamps to fit directly on code 332 rail. New ones are over $2/pair, as I recall. I’ll sell them for half that.
The offer goes to anyone who wants/needs code 332 brass joiners.
There’s only 2 clamps I can reccommend that really work well, 1st split jaw S.S. and the new Train Li clamps are tit’s. They work so nice in screwing down from the top and not the sides and are very strong and great price wise, We the Hudson Valley large Scale Club only use these Clamps now.
Back to Al Kramer’s 4-screw stainless clamps:
Yes, I have defected to using his clamps (ana.kramer website and the e-bay site) in areas that are not easily visible from the most common vantage point. I have lot’s of 'em. Yes, these clamps are more noticeable. So use them where the most critical visiting sages don’t see and you won’t get comments. Why I use them in those areas? The alternative of avoiding the eventual failure in either soldering and/or retightening standard style clamps . Better yet, the satisfaction of screwing down with tremendous pressure four “large” stainless screws crushing those factory brass connectors against both the freshly cleaned rails and the retainer plate!! Ahhhh, each turn of the hex wrench promises the fantasy of “hassle free” continuity for years. No delicate fine thread screws here.
However: There is one task to perform upon receipt of the clamps. Each clamp “plate” needs a thread clean-out with a 10/32 tap powered by an electric drill. Al sends a note indicating the need and granted it takes a little time to do so. Otherwise all is as advertised.
I have used Hillman Rail Clamps since 2000 and have had no problems. I like to use the ones that have a solid bar on one side and split clamp on the other so I can disconnect the rail if need be and not tear up the whole roadbed in the process.
Ron