Large Scale Central

Questions about LGB switches

Track and Trestles
#1

I’ve decided to expand my layout, and replace my Aristocraft manual switches with LGB electric ones. I have acquired the following:

51750 control box

1203 supplementary switches

2070 EPL supplementary switches

several LGB electric switches

I had a couple of LGB manual switches

The wiring itself seems pretty straight forward in itself, however I can’t figure out the flolowing:

If the switches are “electric” what are the 1203 and 2070 for?

What would be needed to convert the manual LGB’s to electric?

(My only previous electric switch experience was with American Flyer -(they were very simple)

Any help would be appreciated!

#2

well, you just need the controlbox and the electric switches.

the 1203(0) additional switches will be needed, if you want the switch to influence other things.
most common would be, to control power in the tracks, that are behind a switch. (lgb manual page 115, you find that here: http://kormsen.info/lgb-manual.pdf )

i don’t know the article No 2070.
but i suspect, that might be the number of the new reed contacts. (in the manual No 17100)
if i am right, these 2070s must be for putting between the rails.

these reedcontacts, together with magnets below the locos, replace the controlbox for automatic running. (any strong magnet does it)

to convert the manual switches, you’ll have to buy the No 2010 switchdrives.

have fun - and ask again, if there are more questions.

#3

Korm - Thanks for clearing that up…

The only question remaining is what the 12070 ( not 2070 as I listed it in my original post) does.

Again- Thanks

#4

LGB 12070 is a double-pole, double-throw switch used for automatic control and signals etc.

Andrew

#5

i looked it up in the lgb products list.
12070 has the same function as the (discontinued) 12030.
it just needs less space.

#6

Phil, if your layout is outside, I suspect that you will be less than satisfied with electric switches, unless you can figure a way to waterproof them. I don’t know of anyone who has been able to do that, yet.

Now, before the usual suspects launch their attacks, this is the nature of electricity outdoors, not one manufacturer or another.

#7

Steve Featherkile said:

Phil, if your layout is outside, I suspect that you will be less than satisfied with electric switches, unless you can figure a way to waterproof them. I don’t know of anyone who has been able to do that, yet.

Now, before the usual suspects launch their attacks, this is the nature of electricity outdoors, not one manufacturer or another.

OK Steve - you challenged so I’ll bite! It’s not so much of a problem with electricity outside as it is a problem with the electric motors and contacts surviving in a wet environment. Somebody living in the desert could probably get years of enjoyment with outdoor electric switches so long as there was no irrigation nearby.

#8

OK, Jon, pick a few nits. (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/gerg.gif)

“It’s not so much of a problem with electricity outside as it is a problem with the electric motors and contacts surviving in a wet environment.” That’s what I was trying to say, you just said it more eloquently. (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/Moosie.gif)

BTW, have you ever seen what blowing sand from the desert can do to an electrically driven device? (http://www.freerails.com/images/emoticons/Mooner%20081.gif)

#9

Thanks to all of you for your input…It is appreciated! I think at this point we are committed to some electric switches due to the nature of our layouts space and design. I’ll have to ask at the next club meeting what other members are doing successfully (or not) I’ve noticed most layouts have some, however, I am not sure anyone actually uses them during open houses… Perhaps, I should take out the pool and put the greenhouse back up, and move it all indoors.

Again thanks to all for your input!!! :smiley:

#10

BTW

Do I need to anticipate any problems with other manufactures Engines & Rolling Stock with LGB switches?

I primarily run Hartland, Bachman ( Thomas series ) some Aristo and LGB

#11

You shouldn’t have any problems with the LGB switches. They seem to be well designed.

#12

there is a bombproof solution for wet weather electric switches.
the motors from central locking systems for cars.
they come sealed, and are made to survive car-wash streets.
they work on 12 to 14 V DC.
the only thing is, one needs less than ten thumbs to install them.
their way of action is slightly longer than that of switchmotors. so one has to build some kind of resort between the motor and the lever on the switch.

#13

Phil Anastasia said:

Thanks to all of you for your input…It is appreciated! I think at this point we are committed to some electric switches due to the nature of our layouts space and design. I’ll have to ask at the next club meeting what other members are doing successfully (or not) I’ve noticed most layouts have some, however, I am not sure anyone actually uses them during open houses… Perhaps, I should take out the pool and put the greenhouse back up, and move it all indoors.

Again thanks to all for your input!!! :smiley:

Phil, Sunset Valley offers pneumatic switch controls that work really well, and are not bothered by water or by sand. What a lot of folks do is operate by hand those switches that are easily reached, and use the pneumatic controls for the ones that are more difficult to reach.

#14

Phil, I use the LGB switches with EPL drives and have had about 1 per year that needs servicing and I live about 30 miles from you. I have 11 of these outdoors for over 10 years now.

However I do not have any water features on my layout, but do water the flowers with a sprinkler a lot in the summer.

Biggest issue is sand from the ants.

#15

Dan - Good to know, My Waterfall, & Pond should not wet any of the switches where they’ll be located, nor have I seen any evidence of ant activity… My biggest problems maybe access to the switch locations once installed, and my daughters Saint. Bernard who eats everything, having a particular fondness for TV remote controls, figures, plastic buildings, landscape timbers, and Solar & Low voltage lighting… BTW - I’ll being seeing Bill this AM (Friday)

Phil

#16

Excuse my ignorance, but what does “EPL” stand for?

#17

Lou,

This should help explain…

http://www.gscalenews.com/information/electric-switch-control

EPL=Ernst Paul Lehmann

#18

I had LGB 1600’s outside for 18 years with only one problem switch. They were wired for about five years with 12 volt dc and double pole double throw toggle switches. It was more fun to walk with the train and throw the switch manually.

#19

Interesting, verrrrry interesting!

#20

I think I’m all set now, thanks to all…