Large Scale Central

Question for the Group: Rail Clamps

Track and Trestles
#1

Hello all.
I have too much time on my hands since we have found ourselves with a snow (/ice) day here in Massachusetts. Som, I’m bargain shopping online.
Can anyone tell me of their experiences with top-screw rail clamps? I am looking for something with a small profile and these seem a good price, if they work well.

EDIT: I’ve replaced the original like because I noticed that shipped was from Germany and would make the ‘good price’ of the item rather expensive overall. Instead, I’ve found these…

thanks!

#2

John,

The Triple O floats on gravel. We have rain, and, obviously we have no snow. Screw-down clamps work on broad curves and straight runs. They have been less successful on our R1 curves, which is our most common radii. I suspect thermal expansion works the tracks apart over time. We had similar issues, though less severe, with direct to rail Splijaw clamps. For our circumstances, Split jaw over the joiner clamps worked best.

Eric

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#3

My apologies, I was not clear. I am considering buying these for using on a modular layout. So, indoors and temporary.
However, your information is good to know in either case! I do plan to use rail clamps for my switches (at minimum) when I am able to lay down a garden RR in future.

#4

I have used both SplitJaw and the Aristocraft flat clamps on my outdoor layout. Both work, tho the Aristo ones occasionally fail by cracking. I have no experience with the ones you see on ebay. And I use track power, so good clamps are essential.
Good luck and report back if you do get those clamps

Jerry

#5

I’ve been using the Crest (Aristocraft) rail clamps on my layout since they first came out. The original ones were thinner and easily cracked. The later ones were thicker but you still have to be careful. I find them easier to install and uninstall than the Hillmans clamps which i still have many on my railroad. Also, I don’t need my reading glasses when working with them.lol

#6

i don’t like clamps, because they cost additional money.
i started to use them (indoors) for connecting turnouts.
top-down screwed clamps are easier to work with for me.
i think, the Massoth clamps could be better. (about the same price as those shown)
they have only two screws on one side. on the other side they have a profie, where the rail foots of the two ends get aligned.

#7

I think the best clamp is over the rail split jaws. Hillman are not too bad but they are not as robust as the splitjaw and I have had many crack at the little lip that holds the rail edge.
I used the Aristo ones that are similar to the ones you are looking at, with the screws on top for my Christmas setup and I didn’t think they worked as well.
If you are going to use this type on a temporary indoor modular I think they would work well but not so well if outdoors year round.

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#8

Thank you for the informative reply, Todd. I do like SJ clamps, I have a few … somewhere … But, I am designing a bridge for the modular layout and I don’t have the clearance to get at SJs from the side within the bridge. These will for sure only be used indoors / for more temporary setups.

#9

I run track power and DCC… on Aristo SS track, floating on gravel…I’m in New Mexico, so Long hot summers… I had trouble with the “Split Jaw” working loose, and when tightening had the screw deform and not stay tight. Went to the Flat Aristo clamps and found that there wasn’t good bite on the tapered screws… added a small brass washer on top and it cured the issue… As the “Split Jaw’s” fail I replace with the Aristo style…

As you can now see… there is no one favorite, that works the best all around… The issue is best described as the different manufactures of rail, all have a different profile on there rail base, even between the same brand ( Brass, or Alum, or SS). one clamp that works well for brass, doesn’t work for SS or Alum, and vise versa…

Find what works best for you…

#10

John
The ones you showed is what I use !
Well made and the use of a reg screw driver is a plus

#11

John, I used that style as well, though from Trian Li. Your price is really good, I might get a pack.

IMO there are two advantages with this design. You come at the screw from the top, vs. the side (with some designs), and at least outdoors that’s a big plus!

Second, the screw bites into the rail flange slightly, giving it a lateral locking function as well as compressive. For a module being transported and undergoing vibration, that might be of use to you.

Cliff

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#12

I run Aristo Stainless both indoor and outdoor. Originally track powered, but still electrified as a 12V lighting buss. For long term, near zero maintenance and good conducting joints I prefer the original Aristo joiners. I do replace the tiny hex cap screws with truss head Phillips, the same as used to hold the rail to the ties.

At switches and locations where I need to remove things like a bridge I prefer Split Jaw clamps. You do need to be careful not to over tighten or you will deform the screws as Cliff mentioned. Access from the side is a pain in both cases. It does help to have a ball end hex driver for the Split Jaw clamps. I originally used Hillman, but I find them much more difficult to remove the clamped in section and I had nearly all of them fail by cracking.

Early on I dismissed the ones with the screw on top as I was concerned that the screws would distract in photos. Now older and less nimble, I’d deal with hiding them for photos in favor of the convenience.

I know you are asking regarding indoor modules, but I’ll mention this anyway. Outdoors, no matter what type of screw you use, dirt will embed itself in the screw head making removal difficult without cleaning out the head. That is really difficult with hex caps. With Phillips, you can use an Exacto blade to pick the head clean.

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#13

Thank you all for your input on this. After the last few positive responses, I went ahead and ordered the Massoth clamps. I will try to remember this thread after I’ve used them for a bit.

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#14

I did too!
They seem identical to Train Li’s, and were quite a bit less.
Thanks for posting about them, John!

#15

I bought a bag of used Hillman’s at the the first NECLSTS… 2 years ago? 3? Anyway, it seemed like a great deal; but later I found that at least half were cracked! It didn’t occur to me to check that.

#16

It will be 2 years this spring I think. You said you run SS track. Hillman’s original clamp would not conform to the web of SS track and would snap right off. I did an extensive study and review of that many moons ago on LSC.

#17

Well you could always do rail clamps like the East Broad Top RR does.

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#18

When looking for pictures in my old storage I found this one of a Hillman Clamp on Aristo Stainless track. It should be obvious why they fail!

#19

OMG - what were they thinking…

Cheers
N

#20

That clamp was designed for brass rail, and worked well in that application. The profile of the stainless rail foot doesn’t fit the clamp. Hillman eventually released a Stainless clamp, but by then I had moved on to Split Jaw which has a more angular slot.

On Brass rail it looks better…