That is why when I had the chance I sold off all my brass and went stainless, before I built my first layout. Best decision I made.
Jon Radder said:
Steve Featherkile said:
My first battery set up was an old DeWalt 18 V drill battery in an open gon with an Aristo 75 mhz TE plugged into an Aristo SD-45. I haven’t looked back, since.
Somthin’ like this huh? Exactly how I started.
That looks a lot like it, except that I just had the battery in the gon. Ran some wires to the pig tail on the SD-45. Later on, I had a set up like that, after I decided that battery power was here to stay. The Drill battery was soon replaced by some sub-C batteries, all in a box car. I even tried the Ryobi, but couldn’t make that work to my satisfaction.
Nico Corbo said:
That is why when I had the chance I sold off all my brass and went stainless, before I built my first layout. Best decision I made.
I don’t disagree with that Nico - My layout is 100% stainless outdoors and about 30% stainless indoors. I never had any real problems with track power; just found battery to be much smoother and better control.
I use my stainless on the flats, and brass for sidings. Aluminum I use for grades, because as it oxidizes, it gains some “tooth.” Haven’t had any problem with electrolysis.
I started with Batt from the beginning (only 3 years ago) because I hated cleaning track on my HO track. I definitely wasn’t going to mess with it in the great outdoors!!
A little less than two years since I started this thread - Today I cut the cord.
One of the track sections that needed to come up for re-leveling was the polarity change for my wye tail. Rather than fight to get the wires connected again for no real reason, I yanked the wires and dug out the power switch box. The concrete base for the electrical box was dated 2006. It functioned as designed for about 4 years, then lay dormant for another 4. Now it’s gone.
With this step I have insured that track power will never return to the C.V.S.Ry.
Gee, um, ah, congratulations?
I am cheap, so I will stay with track power for the time being.
I can’t afford battery power, but congratulations on reducing the complexity of your hobby, which is what i get from this. I’m in the situation where I could not afford to battery power all my locos, even if I wanted to.
So congratulations on completing your “conversion”, instead of having to support both methods.
Greg
p.s. Joe, are you having another meltdown?
Greg -
If I had a large stable of locomotives I probably would stay with track power. At one time I considered DCC with wireless RF throttles; but decided not to go down that road. I started with a trail car and was so happy with how well the train ran that I kept moving down that road.
I only have 5 loos in Fn3 - 3 of these are (or will be) self contained battery R/C. The rest require a trail car which they share. All 3 of my 1:29 locos require a trail car - they will never be converted to on-board battery R/C because I am moving away from 1:29.
Not trying to convince anyone. Do what works for you. Just marking another milestone in the evolution of my RR.
John, I understand that. Many of us like to mark milestones. If I had followed my original plan, I would only have 9 locomotives. Then RC and battery power might be an option for me. I quit counting locomotives, streetcars, rail-buses and such several years ago when I had 25. I am unsure of how many I have now. I never thought I would say that.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Absolutely Dr. J!
Was not trying to derail, and you clearly made the right decision. Most of my locos are large enough to work with batteries, so it could work for me except the sheer number of them. (I think I’m at 40).
The battery technology and the control options are worlds ahead of where they were when I started. (Funny thing though, Phoenix is still one of the top sound units!)
Regards, Greg
Congratulations John, Sounds like the first big step in a series of them this year on the CVSRY. Looking forward to seeing work on the line progress.
Since we are all here, I’d like to hear your formula for success with battery power, what batteries, chargers, and R/C systems do you use?
Are you planning to change R/C systems? Are they all the same?
It’s always nice to here when the plan works.
Regards, Greg
Thanks for asking Greg.
I settled on Del Taparo’s Rail Boss system for my R/C speed control (ESC to many). These are driven by cheap 2.4 GHz Spread Spectrum receivers. My transmitter is a Spektrum Dx5e with a self designed power switch mod which makes the TX unit much more stable. Del has makes a couple of different versions of his Rail Boss. I use the Rail Boss Plus (Hobby) and also have a few of the older Rail Boss Enhanced boards. The Plus adds dual train control capability. I also have one of Del’s Trigger Boards in my trail car to give me a total of 6 sound triggers. I drive Phoenix Sound boards (several varieties) from the Rail Boss.
For batteries I use low-cost Tenergy LiIon packs. Some are built-in to my locos (the self-contained units) and others are fitted with a Tamiya plug for use in trail cars. I use both 11.1V and 14.8V 2200Mah packs. My trail cars are set up to allow two packs in parallel for longer run or higher current needs. I rarely use them that way. I have no idea what my run time is. I usually use a loco a few times on different days before it needs charging. A full charge will get me through an entire day’s operating session at Bob’s.
I charge with a Tenergy programmable charger similar to the TB6B available today. I also have a spare Tenergy “smart” charger which I use only when I need to charge two packs at once.
One complaint you will hear from some about the 2-stick radio system I use is the size. Personally I like it, but for those who want one-handed operation Tony (Remote Control Systems) sells several small knob based transmitters and Del (G Scale Graphics) has a two small push button hand held controls.
I too can give a thumbs up on Del’s Rail Boss system. Very reasonably priced and I was able to do the complete install in a battery car all by my lonesome as my first battery/R/C install. A great product.
Very little soldering needed with screw wire connectors. If I could do this build anyone can…its that easy.
Dr Tom
Congratulations! Without a doubt, for me, the smartest thing I ever did in this hobby was to call up Silver State (didn’t he just get married?) and get receivers, search out strong lithium-ion batteries, then hand over several locomotives (over time) to Kevin to convert. What a freaking relief!
I still have regular locomotives (far, far, too many) and I intend to weather up a couple of them for running out at the Colorado Railroad Museum, although the chances of actually following through on that are, well, I’m not sure. It has been my New Years resolution for four years running to get out there and run trains; maybe this year.
But, seriously, I never heard or met anyone who regretted going battery…I call it ONBOARD POWER because it sounds better, less toy-like, makes me feel better.
edit: this is just me speaking, especially with my pathetic electrical skills.
John Passaro said:
But, seriously, I never heard or met anyone who regretted going battery…I call it ONBOARD POWER because it sounds better, less toy-like, makes me feel better.
John,
In the end, that’s what really matters! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Congrats Jon. I have to say it was a smart move. The only reason why I stayed with track power on my layout, most of our club members still run track power. I did limit my track power to the main loop only and I did not do jumpers etc… Very basic. At this point I have two battery powered engines. One using an RC plane controler and the other (climax) has the critter control. I have the stuff to hook up one more engine to RC but I might do that as a battery car and convert the rest of my engines to battery, 5 total.
My operating engine stable are all battery powered… The GP-7/9’s, GP-38’s, GP-40, SD-45’s and LGB Genisis’ are all powered with 14.8 volt, 6200 or 6400 MAH lithium batteries… They all are controlled with Crest’s Revolution… Some are pre-sound, with a phoenix sound system, and others are Crest’s Generic Diesel sound. My S-4’s and NW-2’s are powered with Cordless Renovations 14.8 volt batteries, as they fit in the Loco’s, and all have revolutions for control…
The Geeps’ & SD’s get turned on at the start of ops, usually about 10:30 to 11:00 am, and get turned off sometime between 5 and 6 pm… I run the units in pairs, and haul about 18-20 cars per train…
My first layout outside was all track power, and worked great for about the first 3 years, then between the heat & cold, the track connections started to loosen up… Whenever there was an electrical issue, one could always go where the train stopped and either tighten the screws holding the rail joiners on, or replace the screw that had fallen out …
Am not saying what I use is best, different strokes for different folks, but it’s what I use, and I like the system…
Just my 2 cents worth…