I can’t afford battery power, but congratulations on reducing the complexity of your hobby, which is what i get from this. I’m in the situation where I could not afford to battery power all my locos, even if I wanted to.
So congratulations on completing your “conversion”, instead of having to support both methods.
Greg
p.s. Joe, are you having another meltdown?
Greg -
If I had a large stable of locomotives I probably would stay with track power. At one time I considered DCC with wireless RF throttles; but decided not to go down that road. I started with a trail car and was so happy with how well the train ran that I kept moving down that road.
I only have 5 loos in Fn3 - 3 of these are (or will be) self contained battery R/C. The rest require a trail car which they share. All 3 of my 1:29 locos require a trail car - they will never be converted to on-board battery R/C because I am moving away from 1:29.
Not trying to convince anyone. Do what works for you. Just marking another milestone in the evolution of my RR.
John, I understand that. Many of us like to mark milestones. If I had followed my original plan, I would only have 9 locomotives. Then RC and battery power might be an option for me. I quit counting locomotives, streetcars, rail-buses and such several years ago when I had 25. I am unsure of how many I have now. I never thought I would say that.(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)
Absolutely Dr. J!
Was not trying to derail, and you clearly made the right decision. Most of my locos are large enough to work with batteries, so it could work for me except the sheer number of them. (I think I’m at 40).
The battery technology and the control options are worlds ahead of where they were when I started. (Funny thing though, Phoenix is still one of the top sound units!)
Regards, Greg
Congratulations John, Sounds like the first big step in a series of them this year on the CVSRY. Looking forward to seeing work on the line progress.
Since we are all here, I’d like to hear your formula for success with battery power, what batteries, chargers, and R/C systems do you use?
Are you planning to change R/C systems? Are they all the same?
It’s always nice to here when the plan works.
Regards, Greg
Thanks for asking Greg.
I settled on Del Taparo’s Rail Boss system for my R/C speed control (ESC to many). These are driven by cheap 2.4 GHz Spread Spectrum receivers. My transmitter is a Spektrum Dx5e with a self designed power switch mod which makes the TX unit much more stable. Del has makes a couple of different versions of his Rail Boss. I use the Rail Boss Plus (Hobby) and also have a few of the older Rail Boss Enhanced boards. The Plus adds dual train control capability. I also have one of Del’s Trigger Boards in my trail car to give me a total of 6 sound triggers. I drive Phoenix Sound boards (several varieties) from the Rail Boss.
For batteries I use low-cost Tenergy LiIon packs. Some are built-in to my locos (the self-contained units) and others are fitted with a Tamiya plug for use in trail cars. I use both 11.1V and 14.8V 2200Mah packs. My trail cars are set up to allow two packs in parallel for longer run or higher current needs. I rarely use them that way. I have no idea what my run time is. I usually use a loco a few times on different days before it needs charging. A full charge will get me through an entire day’s operating session at Bob’s.
I charge with a Tenergy programmable charger similar to the TB6B available today. I also have a spare Tenergy “smart” charger which I use only when I need to charge two packs at once.
One complaint you will hear from some about the 2-stick radio system I use is the size. Personally I like it, but for those who want one-handed operation Tony (Remote Control Systems) sells several small knob based transmitters and Del (G Scale Graphics) has a two small push button hand held controls.
I too can give a thumbs up on Del’s Rail Boss system. Very reasonably priced and I was able to do the complete install in a battery car all by my lonesome as my first battery/R/C install. A great product.
Very little soldering needed with screw wire connectors. If I could do this build anyone can…its that easy.
Dr Tom
Congratulations! Without a doubt, for me, the smartest thing I ever did in this hobby was to call up Silver State (didn’t he just get married?) and get receivers, search out strong lithium-ion batteries, then hand over several locomotives (over time) to Kevin to convert. What a freaking relief!
I still have regular locomotives (far, far, too many) and I intend to weather up a couple of them for running out at the Colorado Railroad Museum, although the chances of actually following through on that are, well, I’m not sure. It has been my New Years resolution for four years running to get out there and run trains; maybe this year.
But, seriously, I never heard or met anyone who regretted going battery…I call it ONBOARD POWER because it sounds better, less toy-like, makes me feel better.
edit: this is just me speaking, especially with my pathetic electrical skills.
John Passaro said:
But, seriously, I never heard or met anyone who regretted going battery…I call it ONBOARD POWER because it sounds better, less toy-like, makes me feel better.
John,
In the end, that’s what really matters! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Congrats Jon. I have to say it was a smart move. The only reason why I stayed with track power on my layout, most of our club members still run track power. I did limit my track power to the main loop only and I did not do jumpers etc… Very basic. At this point I have two battery powered engines. One using an RC plane controler and the other (climax) has the critter control. I have the stuff to hook up one more engine to RC but I might do that as a battery car and convert the rest of my engines to battery, 5 total.
My operating engine stable are all battery powered… The GP-7/9’s, GP-38’s, GP-40, SD-45’s and LGB Genisis’ are all powered with 14.8 volt, 6200 or 6400 MAH lithium batteries… They all are controlled with Crest’s Revolution… Some are pre-sound, with a phoenix sound system, and others are Crest’s Generic Diesel sound. My S-4’s and NW-2’s are powered with Cordless Renovations 14.8 volt batteries, as they fit in the Loco’s, and all have revolutions for control…
The Geeps’ & SD’s get turned on at the start of ops, usually about 10:30 to 11:00 am, and get turned off sometime between 5 and 6 pm… I run the units in pairs, and haul about 18-20 cars per train…
My first layout outside was all track power, and worked great for about the first 3 years, then between the heat & cold, the track connections started to loosen up… Whenever there was an electrical issue, one could always go where the train stopped and either tighten the screws holding the rail joiners on, or replace the screw that had fallen out …
Am not saying what I use is best, different strokes for different folks, but it’s what I use, and I like the system…
Just my 2 cents worth…
My locos have fuel tanks (tenders), when they run dry, the loco stops. Quite realistic methinks.
Battery folks are welcome to come over and run anytime, if you need track power, you can; hire the ditchwitch, buy the wire and conduit and pay the electrician to keep it in code. Oh I guess the 2 reverse loops are out, got a trolley?
The only outside electrical box is out back, while the RR is out front… when the oval was in the driveway, 3 extension cords had to be stretched out to play each time, plus pick up after or the critters dine on expensive plastic… what a chore. Now I just put the Li-ons in the burn out oven and charge 'em up. The oven is good to 1800 degrees F, I’m ready!
I have the older RailBoss enhanced and stick Tx and canned sound, no triggers necessary. I like back ground noise at 1/24 of true volume, I can’t see through the blur of rotating wheels to see if the chuffs match the piston. At 143’, I don’t have a scale mile of track. I’m presenting an illusion of reality and at the end of the day, that’s good enough for me.
I run Stainless, but not all stainless was the same. I have 2 sections of track that always slowed my track powered train, one know it all* kept insisting my track was dirty, when it was very clean. It is the alloy! After the change, those are now just as good as the rest.
John
David Maynard said:
Gee, um, ah, congratulations?
I am cheap, so I will stay with track power for the time being.
You want cheap?
According to my wife I am the biggest skinflint on the planet.
When I started I went straight to battery power because of the track cleaning experience with my HO layouts and seeing my neighbor’s troubles with his track powered layout (he has since converted to battery as well).
I followed the Battery R/C advice I got from the “Sandstone & Termite” website, cheap, reliable, no frills and easy to install.
I have since moved on to adding sound cards and using microcontrollers to give delays for diesels ie open throttle engine revs increase then loco move, again from Sandstone & Termite". More electronic experimentation to come.
For real low cost entry level method I haven’t found a cheaper method.
In fact if I couldn’t use it I probably would not be running trains at all which would probably please my wife.
Well, I am cheap in that I don’t have any on board RC equipment, and the only batteries I have are for my sound cards. I got them on close out from Radio Shack a few years ago.
When I built the railroad I went with the idea that good track-work will last the life of the layout, and so I did spend the money there. I have a bus wire buried on either side of the track, and I had a feeder wire run from that bus to each piece of rail. The rails are also stainless. So I eliminated the whole cleaning brass issue, and loss of power through the rail joiners issue, when I built the thing. Over the years a few feeder wires have been broken, but I overkilled the feeders so much that it doesn’t matter.
Now it would be cost prohibitive to RC my roster of locomotives and streetcars.
To each his own. This thread isn’t about Track Vs Battery power. Just documenting what has worked for me.
I got some pictures today of the wye polarity switch I yanked out. No idea what I’m going to do with this now…
Boat anchor?
Later,
K
Coffee table decoration?
T
Door stop.
