this time i did not calculate. i did look!
Sure looking goodā¦ Nice work.
its only taking too long, like everything these days
Come on Korm , be positive .
Just think how youāll feel when itās done and you can give people some enjoyment looking at it.
I reckon itās going to be worth looking at too , the way you are going .
Chin up old chap!!!
Mike Brit
Korm Kormsen said:
Vic, iām very angry with you!
not only did i waste some time, but now iām stuck with envy and inferiority feelings.
thanks for the link(s)
Relax, it took John Allen some time to get around to the āfloor to ceilingā concept.
BTW on those abruptly terminating mountain sides, we have two of those on our layout. One is āKreuzbergā, the other one is āHalbergratā which ends in a vertical, textured block wall. There are stories to go with those special names.
I keep the cross section of the tunnels large, but the tunnel portals to scale. Removing the portal to get at āthingsā (if ever required) makes life easier.
There will be some extra sculpting of the concrete blocks and some concrete cladding to blend the rocks. At the moment itās too hot and dry for that.
no progress? - yes, progressing. but only with the necessary preparing steps. like fitting and glueing parts together, glueing the āfoundationsā for the portal, and things like that.
in the hope, that one or two not so experienced modellers read this too, i include these thingshere, even, if most of us know that without showing.
(andā¦ to post this, helps spend the time till the glue is hardā¦)
light at the end of the tunnelā¦
in the pic the left wall is just some plastic sheet from advertizing, sprayed with dull black, then pinseled with a mix of ash and alcohol.
it will be viewable only forgiraffes and train-mounted cams.
Korm Kormsen said:
Vic, iām very angry with you!
not only did i waste some time, but now iām stuck with envy and inferiority feelings.
thanks for the link(s)
Welcome to the John Allen fan zone. Weāre all jealous in here.
Vic,
i got the suspicion, that these former modellers were better, because they did not loose time on the internetā¦
and, just becauseā¦
hā¦ letās say, just because it is monday
to get an impression, how the whole thing will look, when finished, i need to see it with a ballasted embankment.
for that i use coarse filtersand drymixed with powdered color for portland.
if one does glue down the ballast, the trains make more noise.
on the other hand does loose sand have the nasty habit to spread out and flatten itself. and on inclined track it tends to opt for the botton of the valley.since my last layout i found an effective countermeasure. i cut flt, inclined stripes of styropor.
thatās easy enough, if one uses a simple jig.
then i glue these stripes from the outside against the sleepers.
when the glue is dry, i pass over the ends of the sleepers and the styropor stripes with a hot soldering iron. that lowers the stripes to just a little lower than the sleepers.
then i smear glue on the upper side of the stripes, and pour sand over them.
when itās dry, i take a pinsel to brush the loose sand towards the middle of the track.
that done i take a big spoon to fill enough sand between the sleepers, that they are nearly covered.
last, i distribute the sand with a pinsel.
there are always some grains staying on the railfeet and on the sleepers, but the vibrations when operating the trains will change that.
yes, i think, i am content how the tunnel portal looks. later iāll plant some shrubbs and grasses to give it āthatā look.
but at second sight i notice one mistake. i should have treated the boards of the siding with a wirebrush too.
as is, the not to scale-woodgrain is too visible.
Korm Kormsen said:
(http://kormsen.info/landscape/bilder/lonemountain24.JPG)
Korm
I use the same idea outside, I mix porland cement with my gravel to form a dam to hold the ballest.
The project is realy coming along!
thanks, yes. and most gets done, when internet is downā¦
well, iām still around.
just stuck with two very boring projects.
one is the tunnel transition, the other a sidewall, that shall look better than the last one.
glue down a piece - and wait a day for the glue to set. snail-progress.
Hey , Korm , itās looking good though .
Youāll be more proud of it if itās a bit of a challenge , and I donāt remember seeing too many tunnels being built on here .
Keep up the good work !!!
Mike
Nice work Kormā¦
thanks, Noel.
to come back to my usage of ashes.
below are two pics. the upper one with flash, the lower one without.
apart from the lower one showing, that i need to glue something dark behind the wall, they show the same:
on the right side the wood is treated with furniture polish only, on the left it got an additional coat with a mixture from ashes and alcohol.
for my eyes the additional ashes take away some brill and give a hint of grey to implicate aged wood.
Keep at it Korm , itās looking good
The grey finish on your timber looks about right to me . I would resist the temptation to āimproveā it , except by putting water streaks on it if itās modelling a wet environment , but it is not absolutely necessary . If you do put water streaks on , remember that your timber face cladding may have been put in the way of the odd little spring , so water can leak out your wall half way up , near the top , or whatever ; you have done such a good job of the colour so far that you would not risk much by trying water streaking because you can always paint over it as you did to start with . Itās simply a case of thin vertical streaks , using a thin wash , just a couple in each section .
But , your model looks good as is , so you may want to have it as a dry environment .
Mike