Large Scale Central

possible track plan

Ok so I had some goof off time today so I laid out all my track to see what I can do and to show The Boss what I was thinking, ( she is BIG on what are you thinking, or often What were you thinking). Any way, this is from the south west side of the house looking north, house on right , fence and side street on left

The track May or may not go on this side of the Oleander, this plant stays, as it is a view block from the sidewalk, the green sage plant the track is on is regrowth from an earlier removal, so it may go too. the idea is to go behind the 2nd Oleander to give a better approach to the river rock pile

approach to river rock pile is up for debate now, as to how to cross it and what to do with it visually

these 3 plants are dependant on the river rock pile off left, they may stay, the plan may be having the track go under the front side and trim accordingly, The Boss has given the ok for their removal if warranted, I may play with trimming to see what can be done, this may become a 2 track area if it fits, it will be a town in final plan

this is the far north east corner of track plan , working back to the south toward the patio and around the palms. Long term is for palms to be gone as they are into the ficus tree. the track coming out from under the plant is to see what curves are neccessary to make track work in front side of plants. Bird bath is moveable and can go anywhere if needed

patio on the right. Sago plants will stay, altough the summer sun is really burning them this year. siding is planned with as big as possible business built on site between main line and patio. trestle will NOT stay there as there is foot traffic pathway , I will have to lower track to flagstone level there. The ground will be leveled off at curve, currently still trying to kill an very difficult to kill plant that keeps sending up shoots from impossibly small pieces of roots

turn to the south back on west side of house, going to double track as much as possible here, grass will be gone when time comes

Have not decides IF the left side track will just be a siding or make a hard left at the end of the grass to connect back with the west side in picture #1 Taking into account what track I have and what I do not have( NO switches) I feel ok about having just enough track to complete this and get things rolling. I spent a while moving things here and there to come up with this Idea. tThe Aloe Vera can be adjusted as needed for clearance if I double track all the way past and around

Anyone see any big problems I may have ?

After reading the butt modeling thread I figured I better do something that will qualify as railroad work. Thanks for getting me going Devon!

Looks good, go for it!!!

Cool. Just make sure where foot traffic has to cross the track, the track is well supported and protected.

Always great to watch someone take the plunge. Looks good Pete, once you are out there doing it, the ideas will just start to flow. You’ll know how you want to do that next section while you are finishing the one you’re on. Make sure when you round that porch post to leave a good 8 to 10 inches of clearance so long cars under-hanging track will clear. Keep at it!

Looks good Pete. When I first started, I used some thick rubber bands to keep the track pieces connected - thus I could actually run a train on it and see if I really like it or not. It was also an easy way to find where the grades were too steep, so I put some bricks under the low parts to help even things out. I ran in both directions and was also able to get a real idea of clearances.

Randy Lehrian Jr. said:

Make sure when you round that porch post to leave a good 8 to 10 inches of clearance so long cars under-hanging track will clear. Keep at it!

I was thinking the same thing.

I’d be more inclined to run the track closer to the edging stones, and further away from the post… Plant a few plants, or make some building flats to go against the post, to hide it somewhat…

Andy Here is your idea, I think I like it. I wanted to keep as much grass as possible, but this adjustment does not make a big a difference as I thought it would. I can still put a switch either on the straight section before the track lands on the grass, ( it will all be flat in this area) or down the line before the Aloe plant

The bucket is there to show the site of the main industry my RR will have. I have a customer who is very good to me that is a wholesaler of abrasives, that I haul to him, so I will be doing some kind of silos and warehouse for here,

by adjusting the curves a little it made a big difference in available space here. Thanks Andy!

Any more ideas are welcome too.

By the way, It is 101 outside right now and when I went to make the changes, the rails are HOT!!!

Randy Lehrian Jr. said:

Always great to watch someone take the plunge. Looks good Pete, once you are out there doing it, the ideas will just start to flow. You’ll know how you want to do that next section while you are finishing the one you’re on.

You got that right Randy. I want to also run track on the upper part of the yard on the north side 60’ to the pool area, and, if I could get my way, AROUND the pool decking to connect back with the track I am laying now. Big plans small wallet.

Its difficult for me to tell in the picture.

It looks like you have some straight track in that S curve. Do you? Is it longer then the longest piece of equipment that you plan to run?

Pete Lassen said:

Any more ideas are welcome too.

Pete

This is exactly what I was saying the other night! Once you find the mainline path you like “hard solder all the joints” instead of clamps and remove all the screws under the rail securing the ties to it. Let the track float and leave room for push say 1" or more on either side. Cost effective and works well whether track or battery powered …(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Make sense?

David Maynard said:

Its difficult for me to tell in the picture.

It looks like you have some straight track in that S curve. Do you? Is it longer then the longest piece of equipment that you plan to run?

Looks ok to me Maynard

Rooster, yea it looked that way to me, but I wanted to make sure.

" Rooster " said:

Pete Lassen said:

Any more ideas are welcome too.

Pete

This is exactly what I was saying the other night! Once you find the mainline path you like “hard solder all the joints” instead of clamps and remove all the screws under the rail securing the ties to it. Let the track float and leave room for push say 1" or more on either side. Cost effective and works well whether track or battery powered …(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Make sense?

Editing: because this method doesn’t work for everyone

yippy, progress. I would say I will race you but I am afraid I will lose.

David, there is a 2ft straight in that s curve, I was probably going to use a 6ft flex for that whole section, this is just mock up and find problem areas time, I keep moving pieces here and there to check the curves and figure out the alignments, I have a 6ft section I bent to a 10ft diamemter and almost a complete set of 10ft cruve I am moving back and forth to see where things are going. So far I have a 50ft box car and the GP38 as biggest rolling stock.

Side question, if I use flex track, will being able to ease into and out of a s curve make any difference? Or is it always better to put a straight section between curves. Also so far everything except the loco had truck mounted couplers.

Rooster, I was showing Mrs What are you Thinking? The Boss, and she pointed out I better not do anything really permament for a while. We are going to be doing some major pool renovations and they will probably be going right through the whole layout with machinery, real 1:1 stuff, so trackwork will have to be relocated when time comes. I for the time being my have to buy a box of clamps until that is done then solder it afterwards.

Devon as stated above, I don’t think this will be more than some track to run trains on in most areas for a couple of years, but is is fun to look and see where the trains will actually be rolling. Now a lot of rock raking will be taking placeas I prep where things are not near level or plumb.

Devon Sinsley said:

yippy, progress. I would say I will race you but I am afraid I will lose.

Yeah but you are doing a lot more scratch building where as I am saving my change up to get the things I need so you might still beat me, or look way way better trying.

Devon Sinsley said:

yippy, progress. I would say I will race you but I am afraid I will lose.

Devon, he already has track on the ground. So he is already ahead of you.

Pete Lassen said:

Side question, if I use flex track, will being able to ease into and out of a s curve make any difference? Or is it always better to put a straight section between curves. Also so far everything except the loco had truck mounted couplers.

Yes, easements will help, but even with easements its best to have some straight track between reversing curves. One section of my railroad is an S curve, with easements, and no straight track. Since I run with truck mounted couplers, I don’t have issues with it. I had to do it that way do to space limitations. If I had body mounted couplers it probably would not work. Even tough it does work, the longer cars look goofy going through that section.

Most of my track joints are clamped, none are soldered. A few of the track joints on my railroad still have the slide on rail joiners.

He is way ahead of me, just the fact that he has track at all. I own track I just don’t posses any of it yet. When it gets here I will lay the box on the ground then I will have track on the ground as well(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Well, yea. I guess. But most of us take the track OUT of the box. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)