Large Scale Central

Pondering Couplers

General Discussion
#1

I thought I was going to be OK with Hook and Loop couplers on our rolling stock.

That is until Thomas came along. For the life of me, I can’t get the hooks to keep from falling out and getting lost. Not to mention, the little fingers around here seem to have a much greater problem with them that I’d ever imagined.

We have a small LGB loco with a Scratch built tender, it has Bachmann Knuckles on it. I also have a few pieces of stock with the B-mann Knuckles. They seem to work great and the kids can handle it too.

We are a 10’ rule RR

Should I move that direction?

Can they be found reasonably priced?

Is there a better option than the 2 mentioned above?

#2

Couplers to me, are a somewhat personal choice, depending on how you plan to ““Operate”” your railroad…

My goal was to actually operate like a real railroad, hence, my requirement for couplers was somewhat demanding as to actual operation… I wanted the look of real couplers, the ease of coupling and uncoupling, and the durability of hauling 20 or more cars… My decision was to go with kadee couplers, all mounted at the Kadee couplers height, and body mounted… Most folks think that the G-scale couplers look rather big for a freight car, but, they are more forgiving on slightly uneven tracks and stay coupled…

I have a few cars that have USA couplers on them, and run them as a ““Unit”” freight train, however, on occassion they always seem to come uncoupled…

Folks I know who have used Bachmann couplers say that, after giving them a coat of paint, they work well an don’t uncouple as much when unwanted…

Other people have used other style couplers and they have used them with great success, hopefully, someone else will bring up their experiences…

#3

I’m a bit of a renegade when it comes to couplers. I use them all, body mount them all, and set them at Kadee height. I weather them with paint, and that keeps the Bachmann ones from coming unglued (failing to stay coupled), even at the head of a 20 car train. I do this because I’m cheap, and Kadees are expensive. The paint seems to make them “sticky” enough to want to stay coupled. Works for USAT couplers, as well.

I use body mount couplers because truck mounted couplers don’t like to back up very well. They are a constant source of derailment, when backing. If you use 830 Kadees, you will have to use 4 ft radius (8 ft diameter) curves, because the wheels will bump up against the coupler box using any smaller, tighter curve. You can cut divots out of the 830 box, and I’ve done that, but that is a pain. There are smaller boxes that can be used, and I’ve done that, as well (789 box with a straight shank coupler). The 835 works well in some applications, too.

I have used both the large and small Kadee, and like them both. They work well together, I haven’t tried the small Kadee with any other coupler.

#4

I run nothing but Bachmann couplers, with talgo (truck) mounts. I have very little issue with un-coupling. I do thou cast my own trucks, but mount B’man knuckles on them. I have operational lift rods on both ends of almost all my cars. I’m forced to use tangos, due to tight curves, and I run a lot of “shorty” cars. BTW the knuckles are cheep on e-bay, or near free from those that remove them to use others.

This is what works for me.

The key to any coupler working well is having good track work…

#5

Kadee’s for me . (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#6

Cale:

  1. cost an issue

  2. reliability an issue

  3. ease of use

Interesting, since most people swear hook and loops are the toughest, most indestructible, most reliable, easiest to use coupler.

but your experience seems at odds with these commonly accepted assumptions.

If you have Bachmann and they are better for your use, then you have your answer, they are inexpensive, available, and you are half way there already.

Regards, Greg

#7

I decided from the beginning to go with Kadee. Very happy with them.

#8

I never had a majority of my equipment from one manufacturer, otherwise I’d have done as Greg suggests. So I went with Kadee Number 1 body mounted couplers. The look like American couplers, mate well with each other, and are acceptable to most other couplers. Body mounting is more work, but I’m pleased I’ve switched.

I even did a clinic at the March SVGRS meeting on installing kadees! Sweet.

#9

I love my link and pin. Never had an issue with them uncoupling :wink:

My second choice is the Bachmann. I never had any major issues with them. I body mount all mine. My solution to the droopy/loose coupler where the knuckle connects the shaft, is to replace that plastic pin with a nut and bolt. I found after a while the plastic pin gets loose. And I get rid of that plastic tail. You dont need it.

#10

Thanks Guys! Looks like I need to drag out all the Rolling Stock and get a hard count for couplers!

The H&L seem ok to use, 'cept the kids have a hard time getting them apart w/o overturning something.

Will post a want-ad in the for sale sub-forum!

thanks again!

#11

Cale, as has been said, couplers are a personal choice. I chose to go with the larger KaDees. The key with any coupler is consistent height from car to car and having them swing freely from side to side. The Bachmann couplers can work well, there is even a fix for them by adding a small spring to help them stay closed. Others have found that a bit of paint will provide enough friction to keep them closed.

Whatever coupler you settle on, get or make a height gauge and set them all to the same height, that will prevent a lot of issues down the road.

I find uncoupling KaDees is as simple as lifting the end of one car enough that the couplers will clear each other. You cannot do that with Aristo couplers, because they have a small plate cast under the knuckle. You can uncouple Bachmanns and USA couplers by lifting one car though. I do not know about other makes, since I don’t own any more expensive makes of cars.

#12

I guess, if operating reliability is your only concern, then hook and loop might be an option; but if you like a prototypical look (like I do), then you have to go with the larger Kadees, or other realistic-looking ones. I have had very little uncoupling issues, even over questionable track, if the couplers are mounted and tuned properly. As to Truck Mounted vs. Body Mounted, I pretty much go with what would have been on the prototypical rolling stock I’m modeling. My Shays have Knuckle-to-Loop-and-Pin adapters for I’m hooked up to mining or some log cars.

#13

Cale, I have had very good luck with the standard black Big Hauler couplers after dis-assembling them and cleaning all the flash off the drop pin. On the ‘Roundtuit’ list is to make a couple drop pins in brass and see if the metal ones work any better.

#14

Shawn Viggiano said:

I love my link and pin. Never had an issue with them uncoupling :wink:

My second choice is the Bachmann. I never had any major issues with them. I body mount all mine. My solution to the droopy/loose coupler where the knuckle connects the shaft, is to replace that plastic pin with a nut and bolt. I found after a while the plastic pin gets loose. And I get rid of that plastic tail. You dont need it.

I’ve retired most of my Bachmann couplers, but I did the modified TOC fix to all of mine at one time…

Full how-to on the CVSRY Website on the Mods Page

#15

Andrew, re-read the OP’s first post, he is NOT getting reliability from H&L, the hooks keep coming off and getting lost.

As I stated, this does not seem to be the norm for H&L couplers, perhaps it is limited to the specific rolling stock he has, but you may have missed the premise to go AWAY from H&L couplers. I also have a habit of re-reading the first post and where the problem is described, and I also take the information at face value (at least at first) from the OP, even if it goes contrary to my experience.

Regards, Greg

#16

Cale for a quickfix in the meantime, old credit cards or the fake free cards they send in the mail work great to uncouple H&L. Just slide them down between the loops. It pushes the hooks down at the same time so they uncouple easily. Note cards and card stock work too but don’t last as long.

#17

Hey Cale, I’ve got two pair of Bachmann ones for you, Just PM me your address. Sorry don’t have enough run time on any couplers to share a valid opinion. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)

#18

Cale a couple of coupler ideas you might want to latch onto;

Maybe you could get a few of each, and play with then to see what you like.

When I was upgrading my fleet, I couldn’t afford enough KaDees for a while. So I used different couplers on different equipment. My Aristo passenger cars ran with Aristo couplers. My bachmann passenger cars and narrow gauge equipment ran with Bachmann couplers, and my 1:29 freight equipment was first to get the Kadees. You could do something similar if you cant scrounge up enough donated and cheap couplers of one type. Use one type on one set of equipment and another type on another type of equipment. They can be joined together with some effort if the need arises, and they are at the same height above the railhead.

#19

For Hook and Loops, I find LGB and USA Trains work best, Bachmann has a weak spring and hard plastic loops that breaks real easy if bumped. Replaced that spring with USA or LGB springs. I replace the loops only when they break!!

HLW has 2 types and one has a very weak spring and the hook sags. The other is a strong spring and does not like my LGB uncouplers in the track.

OTOH Kadees are great and do mate with LGB Knuckles and many other knuckle couplers.

For most LGB, USA, and Bachmann cars, the hook and loops mount the same way. HLW and Aristo use a different mounting method so I change these to Kadee.

And now Trainli has a narrow profile hook and loop available and mounts like the LGB, USA, Bachmann loops.

#20

Dropping back in here:

As long as I’ve been around, I’ve never seen the ‘fix’ from Jon/TOC

I had initially planned for H&L all around, until my Thomas started dropping Hooks and my kids were struggling to uncouple the other stock with H&L (mostly my youngest son, who has taken the Helm as ‘train-nut’ in the family).

Had some B-mann Knuckles on some 20’ B-mann stock and they appear to work ‘better’ for us (as mentioned above they can be HOG hand of God lifted up and out if necessary).

Our trains will be 10 cars or less, minor grade, little locos. Mostly Big Hauler/Buddy-L/HLW stock.

The Kadees are nice, but cost prohibitive (matter of fact I have some listed for sale in the classifieds).

Again, this end of the Spectrum is all about the Kids, ease of use and Roundy-round…10’ rule!

The 7/8 stuff I’m working on will either use the Kadee 779 or L&P (that’s for me :slight_smile: )

I appreciate all the input, over the last 10 years or so, one would think I would have already crossed this bridge…

Cale