and like I didn’t need anymore options, I find this guy on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/pasidump/m.html?item=151357812035&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
if nothing else it may work for my 7/8 projects
Link and pin couplers. Oh drool. I would love to use them, but I dont want to be down on my hands and knees, trying to put a pin through the coupler and link, on a dozen cars, so I can run a train.
If you put simple cut levers on your cars, all you have to do is raise the lever, and no HOG, and the wheels stay on the track. Well sorta a lot like the real thing.
The rod is bent up from 12 gage copper wire (rolmex) stripped of it’s insulation, and the holders are the heads of cotter pins.
I find that the heads of fish hooks are much less expensive than cotter pins.
Steve, maybe. I usually flatten out the cotter pins then bend up my own loops. I can usually get 2 loops from one pin.
When deep into true operations, you try to choose the couplers that work the best under switching conditions, and still give the appearance of being prototypical.
While link N’ Pin couplers look great, and perform well; they are the shits to try to uncouple in switching out individual cars.
A lot of people are more concerned with trying to keep “Trains” of cars coupled on poor trackage and rough roadbed, and seldom actually OPERATE; so they pick the least expensive coupling devices possible.
If a person is starting to put together a fleet of rolling stock, and simply purchases the coupler of choice, possibly Kadee; as they purchase their rolling stock, then the cost is not as noticeable as suddenly having to convert 20 or more, cars all at once.
It is best to stick with one make of coupler, in order for the most flexibility in your choice of operational style.
Some think that having working “Cut Levers” is nice…through experience over many moons; we find that over time they get damaged by the many “Big Fingers” using them, in sometimes congested and tight spaces.
WITHOUT SEEMING TO BE obsessed with Kadee couplers; we have been using them ever since they became available in large scale, and have never been sorry for making them our standard. We do not use the magnets for uncoupling; instead we use long handled fine slot or Philips #2 screw drivers with great success…although their “Delayed action” is useful for spotting cars in locations beyond reach.
I hope our experiences will be of some assistance to anyone just starting, and wanting to find a quality coupler, that will assist them in more FUN and less frustration in the future.
Cale Nelson said:
and like I didn’t need anymore options, I find this guy on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/pasidump/m.html?item=151357812035&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
if nothing else it may work for my 7/8 projects
Seen those before. Probably fine for 7/8, but kind of large for Fn3. I went with Ozark Lincoln Pin couplers for my logging cars.
Fred, yes, the cost is quite shocking to upgrade an existing fleet. Thats why I did my fleet in stages. I didn’t know that KaDees were available in large scale when I started. As soon as I found out, I knew that was going to be the standard coupler on my railroad. Now I do as you said. When I purchase a car I tend to purchase metal wheels and KaDees at the same time. I say tend to, because I have laid in a supply of both, so with the odd purchase here and there, I do not have to purchase the upgrade parts, since they are already in house.
Also I used to send my other brand couplers to folks who I knew would use them. I knew a guy that used Bachmanns, so from time to time, I would send him the ones I swapped out. The same with my Aristo couplers.
Well… Mr. Manard Sir. I would be pleased to pay the postage for your un-wanted Bachman couplers. You can put me on your waiting list.
Dave, I might have a few. I will have to check.
Two things happen here:
Most things have Bachmann knuckles, including the not-yet-finished HLW sparky in my profile pic, avatar, whatever the correct word is. Took styrene and cobbled together a mounting insode the pilot plate, coupler is fixed and does not pivot.
One thing which helps with B’mann is to take a small round file and touoch up mold seam inside knuckle, like the HO crowd does with Kadees. Be careful though, there is a spring wire iin there somewhere on the G couplers.
Also, in lift pin, there is a hole in top of it which on a couple loco tenders I’ve glued an eye pin and run chain to the cut lever, and it wirks like real deal. Will eventually get around to some more locos and rolling stock.
My freelance traction line’s tiny roster uses hook and loop because I want different look for them. With similar built up mount to knuckle couplers, the loop-only HLW Sparky locos are getting B’mann loops with hook. Cars use mix of B’mann and HLW hook and loop depending on sounrce of trucks.
HLW Mack/Sparky locos are short enough 4-wheeler jobs that they do okay with talgo cars.
Daktah John said:
Cale Nelson said:
and like I didn’t need anymore options, I find this guy on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/pasidump/m.html?item=151357812035&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
if nothing else it may work for my 7/8 projects
Seen those before. Probably fine for 7/8, but kind of large for Fn3. I went with Ozark Lincoln Pin couplers for my logging cars.
Our Friend Shawn V confirms the 7/8 notion as well!
Cal I have three sets of those link and pin you found on ebay. They are packaged up a ready for the mail Monday. I threw some cotter pins in. You might have to drill the holes a tad bigger to fir them. I threw a set of those journals for you to try.
Jon that’s the fix I did with the bachmann. I knew i got the idea from somewhere but forget. Lol it was you.