Large Scale Central

PNG MOW car

Modeling
#41

Ralph,

First - I would highly recommend Phil’s Narrow Gauge kits to anyone that wants a well designed and rugged car that can withstand years of use. They get a Five ***** Star rating in my book! I also like the use of brass grab irons, stirrup steps and nut/bolt pins in the PNG kits. For those that don’t know - the PNG instructions are well written and include several photos - another plus +++.

“The only problem is, if I build one I’ll have to build several. As they look so much nicer than the crap I have now”
YEP - I totally agree! I am currently building the PNG - MOW Kitchen Car as well. This is my 2nd PNG kit - makes you want to ‘throw rocks’ at some of the other plastic cars. I’m not saying the plastic cars look bad; it’s just that NOTHING looks like wood, but wood it’s self.

Jerry

#42

For a source of cheap (well, cheaper) wire, use welding rod. I have a 2" square box of 3’ long aluminum rods, and another small bundle of brass ones. MUCH cheaper than buying wire. Check out your local welding or auto-body supplier.

#43

Lloyd,
It’s the softest brass, called “form-able Alloy 260” brass rod.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3694/=acwryd
I have scratch-built several cars in the past, and I pushed the truss rods under the bolsters on those. That’s where I got that idea.
I’m considering a removable roof on a box car kit for batteries. Other than that, I don’t have any plans for interior detail.
My PNG kits fit right in with my Accucraft cars, because they are weathered. But I do take a certain pride in the PNG’s kits, because “I built it myself.”
I wish PNG would add some more kits to his line. It would be nice to have a gondola and a caboose.
I made my own gon from a flat car kit.
You’re right, the kits are addicting! You can’t just have one.
Besides, they are great wintertime projects.

#44

John - Your build is looking good and really progressing fast. Thanks for taking the time to document it.

#45

Looks like it went together well John. I like the change in roof materials. Looking forward to the paint and finish

#46

I wanted to show you a slight snag you might have if you build the sides up separately. This piece shown with the arrow might have to be adjusted to make the sides fit even with the bottom of the car.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs2revised.jpg)

She’s back from primer and ready for the fun part: attaching the hardware.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre1.jpg)

Make up something from scrap styrene. Drill a small divot in it and fill the divot with CA. This is where you “dip” your fasteners.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre3.jpg)

Well start with the bottom corner braces. They are not drilled. The drawing will show you the hole locations. The two holes for the step are the only critical ones to locate.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/Mowhdwre2.jpg)

Once drilled, place on car for mounting. Mark with pin vice and drill the mounting holes in the car. Drill deep or thru. This allows air to escape as you push in the pins.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre4.jpg)

If you want, use a pin vise, or a scrap of rod to hold it while you mark the holes.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre5.jpg)

Dip your fasteners in the glue, using a tiny needle nose or tweezers and push them in. You might want to “pre shape” the step so it fits flat against the bracket and the wood side. There is about a 1/32" difference.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre6.jpg)

PNG’s upper bracket comes with cast in bolts and two mounting pins. These pins do not line up correctly, due to the slight differences in the way you assemble the side to the end. So I snip off the pins and one of the cast bolts, drill holes and fasten the upper brackets with a PNG nut/bolt.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre8.jpg)

PNG’s ladders rungs don’t line up with the holes. You simply spread them to fit with a pair of needle nose pliers.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre9.jpg)

This side corner is done. We can move down the side to fasten the other parts on. The parts themselves are not glued on. It’s the fasteners that are glued into the holes that hold the parts good and solid.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwre10.jpg)

“That’s all for today”

#47

The two end roof walk supports. I remove the cast in n/w and drill my own holes for anchoring. The part will get bent out of shape. It’s very easy to re-form it back to a 90 degree angle. Just use a block and press it back in shape. The roof walk supports that were pre-glued on previously should be centered on your car. They are 1 inch wide. Using a 1 inch wide stiff ruler, lay the car upside down on it. Make sure it is centered on the roof walk supports. Now put the roof walk support on the ruler and slide it up to the car. Mark the holes, drill, glue and pin it.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept2rs.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept21rs.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrepts2rs.jpg)

I like my brake wheel and staff removable. I make sure the pawl and ratchet and the upper support are properly reamed so the brake staff can be inserted in them easily. Line up the bottom brake staff holder and center it under the “U” bend on the coupler lift bar. Drill and mount it.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept23rs.jpg)

Slide the upper bracket on, line it straight up and down with the staff and pin that on. Now slide the pawl on the staff and line that up.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept25rs.jpg)

The chimney has four little tiny guide wires. Too much detail for me and the method of fastening them. So I eliminated them. I also want the chimney removable.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept24rs.jpg)

It’s now ready for the final paint, decals and weathering.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWhdwrept26rs.jpg)

#48

That’s going to be a mighty fine addition to your ever growing fleet John. Nice building log as well.

#49

Very sharp!
Looks like a very nice kit.
Ralph

#50

Great looking as always John. Maybe Phil’s should send you a kit of everything they make so you can do a build log on all of them.

#51

Looks great John.

#52

Is it painted yet :slight_smile: Serious, a well done build and log with lots of pics Thank you John

#53

Additional PNG tips and pics are here.
By our own Bruce Chandler.

http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/view.php?id=94

#54

Nice log, John. It will look good outside. Why are you making the chimney and brake wheel removable?

#55

Bruce,
I find it easier to transport them somewhere without things sticking up.
The cars will be moved at least three times this year to other sites.

#56

Back from paint for about a week now. Been too busy with other stuff.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint1.jpg)

Clean the paint off of the roofwalk brackets.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint2.jpg)

I didn’t like the gaps between the PNG roof walk, so I did a 4 board roof walk instead. It is glued and bradded on.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint4.jpg)

A little rust on the hardware, using oil based “rust” paint.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint3.jpg)

An alcohol and ink wash brushed over the entire model.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint5.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpaint6.jpg)

Couplers and trucks installed.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWbunk1.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/Mowbunk2.jpg)

Now it’s back in the paint shop for final dusting and detailing.

#57

Nice looking model John. Phil has some very nice kits.

#58

Fine looking work train.
Ralph

#59

Hey John, what did you use to substitute for the shorter roofwalk supports? Were you able to get more of the taller ones? I am building this kit also right now and I like the way you went with it.

Matt

#60

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/chat/emoticons/good.gif)