I started to build a Phil’s Narrow Gauge MOW car. If there would be an interest on this board, I could document the build, step by step. Let me know. For additional PNG tips go here: Article by our own Bruce Chandler http://www.largescalecentral.com/articles/view.php?id=94
I’d like to see it 
Ralph
yep - seconded
please do as I would like to see it as well
I guess I’ll fourth it. Love to see the work, I’ve got some plans of my own and could use some ideas.
Please do.
I’ve built two of his kits and have a third (Freelance Passanger/MOW) on my workbench waiting for the end of the holidays. I’ve really enjoyed building his kits. Just wish there were more wooden kits (rolling stock/buildings) available somewhere/anywhere?.?.
I believe people would want to see car being built, so they could get ideas of their own… You may do things differently, and more efficiently than some previous methods…
John,
Please post your progress pictures and text. It is always fun and interesting to see how construction is approached by different people.
Like Lloyd I have one of Phil’s Coach/Mow car kits sitting on the shelf waiting attention. Maybe if you post your progress it will motivate Lloyd to get started then I can follow his build and not have to read the instructions myself 
Merry Christmas all
Rick
Count me in.
Looks like there is enough interest.
That’s good. This will make me slow down to take pics and make notes. Usually, I start a project and go like hell, forgetting about documentation.
Here is the disclaimer.
This is not a “museum piece” build nor an exact copy of the prototype. There are a few things that have to be done that require “fudging”.
I will also change a few things, for what I would like to be on my model.
But for the most part, it will be a good representation of the PNG model as pictured above.
If there are hints you have or constructive criticism during this build, please feel free to chime in.
Looking forward to watching your progress John. Will you be building the Rotary someday too?
I vote for the build
When will it be done?
Boys, I had todays progress all loaded and ready to post and I hit the wrong button and lost it all…%^%$# So, I’m going to post a little at a time. When I’m done for today, I’ll end with “That’s it for today.” Then you can post comments. Thanks! PNG’s kits come with the frame all glued and pinned. Check it for eveness and sand the top smooth. This is the bottom.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW1rs.jpg)
I build blocks out of scrap and screw them to the bolsters using PNG supplied truck screws. Make sure the screw heads are fluse or lower. Keep the width less than the car width. These will stay on for the entire build.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW2rs.jpg)
The PNG car deck is pre sized and ready to glue on. I mark where the frame beams are for using pin fastners to hold it in place while the glue dries. This is the only piece I use white wood glue on. Titebond III.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW3rs.jpg)
John Bouck said:But what if you forget to write "That's it for today" and we want to comment? :(
When I'm done for today, I'll end with "That's it for today." Then you can post comments. Thanks!
The deck is glued and pinned using brass escutcheon pins. No need to clamp. You can go right on to the next step.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW4rs.jpg)
This is the glue that will be used from here on out, along with Zap super glue. It’s a thick super glue used to work with wood. Ive done 5 PNG kits now and this glue was used on everyone of them. Also shown are the pins.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWgluers.jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWpinsrs.jpg)
PNG’s directions tell you move on to the “box” from here. This is where I veer off. I flip the frame over and build all the bottom stuff. It’s a lot easier. Locate the brake parts.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW5rs.jpg)
File and remove flashing. The two saddles are not shown.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW6rs.jpg)
Clean mounting holes and air line holes out with a drill in a pin vise.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW7rs.jpg)
Mock up the brake parts. mounting plate, saddle and cylinder/tank. They do not fit exactly in the center of the plates. Otherwise the lines will not line up with the slots in the frame.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW8rs.jpg)
Notice how the tank is off center. Glue the tank to the saddle and then to the plate. (I drill a hole thru all three from the bottom and pin the three parts together. Same with the cylinder.) Drill pilot holes, then glue and pin on the tank.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW10rs.jpg)
Make up the airline to the cylinder. Line it up with the tank and glue it in. Now position the cylinder and mount it like the tank. Do not glue the lever assy on yet. I use scraps of brass rod as temporary brake rods for lining up. Notice how far off the lever rods are.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW12rs.jpg)
Widen the notches to align the rods. Now gently spread the levers and glue them in. Use the mock up rods to hold it in place till the glue sets.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW13rs.jpg)
Here’s the soft metal rods that PNG supplies. They are used for air lines, break rods and truss rods.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW9rs.jpg)
Place a truck on the bolster to get an idea of clearance for the truss rods.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW14rs.jpg)
PNG has notched the frame to allow wheel clearance. You can’t have any rod or line above it the notch.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW15rs.jpg)
Put a dab of glue on the brake rods and glue to the lever. I put the other end under the bolster, out of the way for now. Find the queen posts and clean them up. I snip off one of the cast bolts and drill a pin hole in the mounting plate. Locate them and mock them up, to allow room for the truss rods to clear the pump and tanks.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW16rs.jpg)
Clean the saddle of the queenpost out with a drill bit. One a little larger than the truss rod. Glue and pin the queenposts in place. Locate the turnbuckles and clean them out with a pin vise. File the slot a little also. You’ll see why in the last step. I wish PNG would supply longer truss rods. (I am going to find a source for my own.) Push the turnbuckle on. Center the truss rods on the turnbuckles and put a drop of glue to hold them. Let dry. Don’t glue the turnbuckle.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW17rs.jpg)
I bend the rods down just in front of the notches and hold them in place with a block. PNG’s instructions say to poke them thru the floor. Doesn’t work to good with flat cars, etc. You can see here that if the truss rods were longer, you could push them under the bolster as well.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW18rs.jpg)
Locate the turnbuckle boards. Now you know why you cleaned the turnbuckles up. You still have to sand the boards a little so they will fit. Push them thru the turnbuckles. Now apply a drop of glue to hold the turnbuckle in place.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOW19rs.jpg)
As far as I’m concerned, the bottom is done, boys! “That’s it for today”
Jon Radder said:Jon, My skills only go so far! :) :)
Looking forward to watching your progress John. Will you be building the Rotary someday too?
