John, it looks good so far keep up the good work. For those who are a bit timid, try the flat car first. Building your own can be fun!
Paul
The PNG directions have you fasten the ends on next. I like to build up the parts on the bench and then fasten them on. It’s much easier. On my 40’ reefer build, the ice hatch assy was built as one unit and then fastened on the roof. You will have to locate the “A and B” ends. Mark as such. Then grab the bag of “End Door” parts.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend1rs.jpg)
The 1/32" pieces are casings. The 1/16" are door trim. Glue the two spacer pieces on the back of the end, inside.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend2rs.jpg)
Locate the casings and glue them in the opening. (I’ll replace this ugly cutting board)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend3rs.jpg)
It will look like this. They are flush with the end outside surface.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend4rs.jpg)
Locate the end trim piece and glue that on both ends, A and B. Don’t trim off the ends level with the sides. Do this after the sides are on.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend5rs.jpg)
The door trim comes next. I wanted a little different top piece, so I fabbed this up.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend6rs.jpg)
And glued it in.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend7rs.jpg)
Trim is on both ends. The hole in the bottom door trim is for the coupler lift bar bracket. It got covered up with the trim piece.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend8rs.jpg)
There will be 4 end pieces in the kit. These will be used to help fasten the sides. Don’t glue them below the deck level. I marked where the inside floor will be located. Glue on the end blocks and the door.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWend9rs.jpg)
“That’s it for today”
Nice build so far John. I have been thinking of getting one of PNG’s cars.
Bob C.
Because the sides are bowed so much, I decided to put the doors and windows in after it is assembled into the “box shape.” I did glue in the side door casings. Notice the notch. It is for the roof truss. Make sure it is on the right side.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWendsonrs1.jpg)
Support the deck on the ends as shown. That way when you put the ends on, they line up with the bottom easier.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWendsonrs2.jpg)
I siliconed a little weight over each truck bolster. This adds a little more weight to the light car.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWendsonrs3.jpg)
Lay your ends up against the drawing and get an idea where the hardware will be. Why? Because I like to use little tiny lag screws to hold the ends in place while the glue sets. Even if one of the screws is in the way of something, it can be removed later.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWendsonrs5.jpg)
It’s starting to look like something! Notice the tiny brass lag bolts on the bottom?
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWendsonrs4.jpg)
“That’s it for today.”
Progress seems to be going well… lookin good…
Nice build and with lots of pics 
Makes it real easy to follow along
Great looking build John, Phil should seem some extra business because of your efforts I think. I know I have been spending time on his site today.
Hey, this is working up into a nice tutorial/kit review combination thread.
Nice build log so far!
Great stuff! Even if I never build a kit, just seeing how a quality kit like this goes together will make it easier to scratch-build something.
Thanks, Boyz!
I found a source for some soft brass rod. (McMaster-Carr) 3 foot lengths. Ordered ten sticks of it.
I’ll use it for rods underneath on my next builds. Also ordered some shorter 18 gauge pins. PNG uses 3/8". All I had were 1/2" in stock.
Why I use brass pins is in case I put one where something else is needed, they are easier to drill thru than steel. And if you go right thru, you can really easily file the point off.
John,
Great job on the build and good photo documentation.
Have you considered a local welding supply store for your brass rod?
Thanks for the sharing your build.
Rick
I thought it over and decided to go ahead and build up the sides before I made the box. Like I said before, it’s much easier. So I glued a couple stiffeners on the back to take the bow out and keep it flat.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs2.jpg)
PNG’s directions say that the window frames butt up against the side top trim board. If you did that, you’d have this. But then it goes on to say that these are “generic” window instructions.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsiders1.jpg)
These frames are very fragile. (trust me.)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs3.jpg)
Glued together, they finish up like this.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs4.jpg)
And you have all four made up.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsides5.jpg)
Ok, now I had to stop and think a bit about painting. I didn’t want to have to mask of the window pane. So I glued on the frame to the side and pre-painted it. I then installed the glass from the back with the retainer. Now all you have to do is mask off the entire frame. Much easier.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsides6.jpg)
And the back with the retaining trim. This side is ready to go. The other side is done the same way.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsides7.jpg)
“That’s it for today.”
The ends always bow in at the top a little, so I make up a spreader and push it in place. I use shim pieces to bring the end to a perfect 90 to the floor.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs8.jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs9.jpg)
Again, using the drawing to see if there is any hardware in the way, one side is glue on and held by tiny lag bolts.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesrs10.jpg)
They are both on. Don’t worry if the ends and sides don’t line up perfectly. They won’t. A little sanding and filing makes everything look good.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWsidesr11.jpg)
“That’s it for today.”
Locate the roof joists and dry fit them in their slots. They may need a little sanding to snug down in the slots. Then glue them in.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs1.jpg)
These are the roof pieces supplied with the kit.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs2.jpg)
Now I am going to veer away and freelance my roof. PNG’s roof is a “tar paper” roof. He supplies some cloth that you mix with white glue and smooth out on the roof and edges. (Actually, mine was missing from this kit.) I wanted an earlier wooden roof. So I ordered some scribed siding from PNG along with the kit. Using the PNG roof panels as patterns, I cut my own from the siding.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs3.jpg)
I wanted to hang my roof eaves out a little farther than the supplied roofs. Lay the two roof pieces together on your bench and find the center. Put a mark every inch either direction. My machinist square is an inch wide, so it worked good as a marking fixture. These marks are for the catwalk supports.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs4.jpg)
I located the chimney hole from the original roof and cut that out.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs5.jpg)
PNG supplies little tiny brads which hold the roof in place while the glue dries. Also put a drop on your catwalk support marks and press a catwalk support on the roof. Put the bead of glue on the mark, and not the support. You won’t get glue all over your fingers. That is all I do with the car before primer. It now goes in the paint shop to get primed and sanded. When I get it back, we start adding the detail parts.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jebouck/MOWRoofrs6.jpg)
“That’s all for today.”
Thats looking really nice.
John,
I really like your idea for attaching the truss rods to the underside of the body. I attached mine as per the directions and have had a couple of them separate after some handling (I used CA cement). I also like your suggestion that they could be continued and terminate under the bolster. I will definitely apply those ideas when I start my next build.
You said you ordered some brass rod from McMaster-Carr so I went there to look around but couldn’t figure out which type of brass to order. I’ve been using steel wire and while it does work, it is difficult to bend. Could you give me a more specific reference for what you ordered?
One other question… Had you given any thought to making the roof removable and detailing the interior? I know that’s not what you are doing, just curious if you had considered it?
Lloyd
John, great write up!
One of these days I’ll have to try one of Phil’s kits. They look to be excellent kits.
The only problem is, if I build one I’ll have to build several. As they look so much nicer than the crap I have now 
Ralph
Lloyd (and John),
I too substituted 1/16" brass rod for the truss rod application in a PNG kit (30 ft Reefer) in place of the soft aluminum rod. The brass rod is more ridgid and does not bend when the car is cradled in your hand while handling. I did use the aluminum rod for the airline and brake rigging application - easier to bend the compound angles to shape.
Link to Amazon as a source of supplier (little cheaper than McMaster-Carr): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPK7FM/ref=ox_ya_os_product
Great thread! I agree with John about the order of the box assembly - build up the sides first, before attaching to the deck.