And on Facebook, in 2 or 3 different groups. . .
Timmy, if we are trying to be helpful, it is tough to know which thread to respond on. Most of us read MLS and Facebook as well as here, so it gets tedious seeing the same question with different answers on different threads. I just ignore your posts on the other threads to save myself time and effort.
I beg your pardon. I donāt ignore any answersā¦ I may not respond to each and every answer but I absolutely do NOT ignore any of themā¦ Perhaps you should chillā¦
Correct! The questions were posted at the same time in different places. I fail to see where that is an issueā¦
it gets tedious?? Thatās a good one!
so, in your infinite wisdomā¦ what is the PeterT way of asking a question?? I do want to make sure that I am in no way wasting anyoneās timeā¦
Intermission?
thank you for the advice. i will think about it.
I donāt understand your answer. Are you suggesting that answering the same question multiple times should be fun? Or that saying it is tedious is a joke?
Timmy, nothing wrong with the way you phrase your questions, (though sometimes I think you might do some research before throwing your query out to the collective minds.)
I find it irritating to answer a question on one forum, e.g. here on MLS or LSC, and find you posted it on Facebook and have already responded to several replies, so I am wasting my time answering it. You are not the only culprit, by the way.
I appreciate you canāt instantly take the replies you got on Facebook and flag the MLS and LSC threads as āresolvedā.
If you want a suggestion, how about posting a question on one place, waiting a couple of days, then post it on the next forum if you donāt get the answers you want? Mind you, the guys here can answer EVERYTHING so Iād start here.
OK Collective mindsā¦
What is the meaning of life?
to fill the void between birth and death. 
Ok, so seeing how the guys here can answer āEVERYTHINGā I did more sluething today.
For whatever reason I had not tried running just the loco by itself not connected with the tender. I tried that today and to my suprise, the loco did not budge. However, it does run with the tender connected. I am guessing that is why it slows down on my indoor layout only in the sections that have the small radius curves. I am also guessing that may be why I also need to turn up the transformer higher than my other moguls. I dropped the motorblock out of the loco, took off the top cover and unplugged the plug to the motor. There are 4 pins sticking up that the plug plugs into, the 2 outside pins go directly to the motor. I attached my Tech 4 MRC 200 spare transformer to the 2 outside pins to the motor (same one I tried prior which did not budge the loco), barely turned up the transformer and bingo, the loco slowly ran on the rollers. I turned the transformer up slowly and the loco responded perfectly! So, it appears the amperage of my spare transformer is just fine. It also appears the motor is fine as it responded and ran great in this test. The wheel gauge appears to be just fine as well as the side rods. I put the loco back together, put it on my layout, turned up the layout transformer andā¦nothing. I turned the loco over and removed the bottom plate and made sure the pickup hardware was situated correctly. Applied power directly to the pickups andā¦ nothing!
So, my guess is that if I can figure out why no power seems to be getting to the motor from the pickups and solve that issue, this loco should run just fine.
Well done, young Grasshopper.
On the right track, you are.
Timmy,
These are some failure points that Iāve had on LGB locos:
The spring that holds the brush against the drivers rusted and failed, so no power was getting from the drivers to the buses. You will have to remove the drivers and see if you get a nice brush and spring assembly or a brush with spring bits.
The metal bus rods and / or plates do not stay in contact with the brushes bringing power from the wheels and / or contact shoes. Youāll have to open this loco up again and inspect everything with a Mark I, Mod 0 eyeball. I then used probes to jump across any gaps.
The motor tab doesnāt connect with the bus. I think you can eliminate this, since the motor runs with the tender attached.
Good luck!
Eric
Thanks Eric,
I will certainly take the drives off and check.
I am not sure I am clear what you mean by the rods or plates unless you are referring to the metal strips that lay across the pickups and that the shoes sit on top. If so, Iāve checked those multiple times already and donāt see any issue.
I can touch power leads to the metal strips, shoes, barrel of each brush and to the drivers and nothing happens.
Tim
Eric, havenāt you also mentioned having to re-solder a soldered connection or two in your loco repairing threads ? Just in case there are any between the pick ups and motor in this loco
Timmy I think you will find the tender has the board in it that controls the current to the motor which is why the loco on its will not run.
OK ā¦just a shot in the dark here and after reading the manual that I posted earlier. Have you tried running the loco with the 4 position switch in position 2 or is in it position 3? Just a thought.
0ā¦All power off
1ā¦Power to lights as smoke generator
2ā¦Power to lights,smoke generator and motors
3ā¦Same as 2 but factory preset.
From your recent findings and looking at the wiring diagram it clearly sounds like it is only picking up power from the tender pickups and not the loco pickups. From what I have found on the internet the Moguls have twelve (12) track contacts (6 drivers, 2 shoes and 4 tender wheels with track contacts). However with out actually having the loco in front of me and a multimeter I canāt really say much more other than guess? The wiring diagram doesnāt show where cable #152 goes into the motor block. So my educated guess would be that the 2 inside pins are the pickups from the tender. I would also āguessā that the problem is within the pickup wiring inside the motor block from the wheels and pickup shoes to the motor itself. (if that makes sense)
Yes. The motor tab connecting the motor to the bus bar bringing up power from the drivers and shoes had an intermittent connection. At someoneās suggestion, I soldered across the tab to the bus ( LGB Olomana - Smoked Buehler Motor). Many of the connections are basically held in place by pressure, so if a bus bar gets bent, even a little, it may not make the pickup from the driver or skate. Iāve learned this the hard way, by either not taking care of things during disassembly resulting in minutely bent parts and by reassembling the locomotive incorrectly, leaving things out of place.
Eric
For what it was worth, my 2018D has the board in the boiler ( LGB 2018D Mogul - Cable From Cab to Tender Kaput). The picture is well down on the thread. Newer models may be different.
Eric
This is not exactly TRUE as I have been working on operation āW.O.M.A.Nā for the past 30 yrs and I still do not have it figured out!
