Large Scale Central

Not LS, but LS - my 4" scale steamroller project

Electronics Live Steam
#41

I kinda just shoved stuff together because it was trying to sleet, but here is some progress pix: New flywheel… looks real good as long as nobody gets the bright idea of hanging a too heavy belt on it.

(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt7/tigerlillie06/His%20Stuff/PA050003.jpg)

Bull sprocket installed. Pinion sprockets haven’t come yet… about 10 feet of #80 chain will have to wait for another payday or two.

(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt7/tigerlillie06/His%20Stuff/PA050002.jpg)

Left side after minor frame adjustment - no more weird geometry.

(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt7/tigerlillie06/His%20Stuff/PA050001.jpg)

#42

No this isn’t a “zombie thread”, and I have pix to prove it! Other projects and generally negative cash flow meant I really didn’t get much done on this thing at all last summer. (I scrounged some more parts, but that was about it…) Since our new landlord was being a pain in the butt about it anyway, we had a friend haul the wee beastie to the Portersville Pa steam show grounds a few weeks ago. It will be on display in the steam building there during the summer show in August for those who are interested in examining it. Nothing like an “open house” to motivate you to get busy doing stuff that you’ve been procrastinating about! Anyway, to the pix! A minor project, but it needed doing. I made a bracket to hold up the inside end of the lift for the Stephenson’s link reverse. It’s just a bit of bar with a bushing welded to it - on the original Mason twin, this part was cast in on top of the other engine frame. It took me a while to figure how to do the offset without it looking totally cobbled. There will be a diagonal brace bolted to the hole to further help hide the joint.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010008_01.jpg)

This photo shows the end result of about 10 hours work just to get things back looking almost exactly how they did before I started… I never liked the way that the front end sat higher than the rear (I mis-measured the offset needed on the frame when I built it, and didn’t notice until the boiler was already mounted. Lesson learned!) Since I couldn’t lower the front without a LOT of reworking because of all the stuff that would need removed, I decided it would be “easier” to relocate the rear axle. All I had to do was cut about 1-1/2" reliefs into the channel frame on each side, make sure everything was square, and weld it all back together. The boiler sits within about 1/4" of level now… Oh, the things we do just for aesthetics. LOL

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010009_01.jpg)

While I had the welder out, I (hopefully) permanently mounted the steering gear. Since the recycled 3/4" shafting was a little sprung, I decided a center guide might be a good idea. If it LOOKS like a 3/4" bushing welded to a 3/8" bolt… it probably is. Sometimes the simplest solution is also the most elegantly functional.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010007_02.jpg)

I’m not sure what this old casting came off of, but I just had to use it for the upper steering bracket. And rather than peen the wheel in place, I welded a washer to the shaft. Just in case I ever need to disassemble it. (Yes, I considered cutting the seat deeper then threading the end of the shaft, but the wheel has very little dish.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010010_01.jpg)

I have most of the parts for the driveline (differential, pinion clutch, etc), and the drawings made for the water tanks, but those things will have to wait for another post… Hopefully it won’t be another 2 years until then.

#43

Don’t it figure, I made some good progress today despite the heat, but forgot the camera…

The big project was a new crankshaft. I got to use the big lathe in the 1890s Hoffman Machine Shop at the Portersville Steam Showgrounds to do it, too! —
(the big lathe with one of my final drive sprockets is above - small by locomotive standards, but big enough)

The Mason engine has a 3/4" shaft. The McCormick thresher pulley I’m using for a flywheel, and dog clutch a friend gave me are 1-1/4". I thought about making a sleeve, but it would have needed to be about 7" long, and I was worried about the possibility of bending the crank if somebody hung a belt on it, anyway. Sooooooooo, since I had a 2 foot piece of 1-1/4" shafting “seasoning” in the shed, I decided to polish it up, then turn it down on one end to 3/4" for about 8" and be done with it. It looks kind of funny (the governor pulley is at the transition, so the shaft is skinny on one side and fat on the other), but it’s totally functional. I’ll probably use two pillow blocks on the flywheel end since I have them to keep as much stress off the small part as i can (overkill? nah…hehehehe)

The other project was boring out a #40 sprocket to fit the nice riding mower differential I have (Jacobson? it’s orange anyway)… it’s only 40 tooth, but the one that was on it was 32 tooth, so it’s at least a bit larger. I did the math, @ 250 rpm it should go about 3MPH… A little faster than I’d prefer, but I don’t have a 50 tooth sprocket.

There was no fan in the shop. I probably lost 10 pounds in sweat, so I quit after I got those done. Maybe I need to lose a little “insulation”?

#44

It was just too miserable hot by 9AM to even consider going over to work today. So I assembled the differential sitting on the livingroom floor. I was careful not to make a mess but Kim still wasn’t amused. What is it with women and that old bearing grease smell? Men don’t (usually) complain about their stinky flowers… At least I’m still allowed to sleep indoors, and I even got a couple pics to share! This is the twin brother of the #40-40T plate sprocket I cut yesterday as a “before” pic:

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010012_01.jpg)

And how my amateurish machining job turned out:

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010015_01.jpg)

This is business part of the pinion clutch I was given. I “milled” mating dogs on the inside end of the flywheel hub with an angle grinder, then dressed everything up with a file to reduce the stress risers. The hub casting is about 7/16" thick, and the roller is only intended to pull itself, so I’m hoping to get away with it. If it breaks I still have the mating part from the clutch in the shed. I’ll be turning down the taper part to mount a 15 or 16 tooth ring sprocket. which will give me a about 2.5:1 reduction to the differential countershaft. I’d prefer at least 3:1, but simply can’t afford the asking price for a new 50 tooth sprocket!

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010011_01.jpg)

More pix coming when I get them…

#45

Some new progress (Hope I ain’t boring you!), even with the miserable heat of late This is what the new crankshaft looks like. I need to ream the bearing bushing to fit better - as my “interference fit” completely interferes with it even thinking about going together at all.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010007.jpg)

I almost talked myself out of these stainless hotdog cart coolers 3 times. Mostly because the guy wanted $50 firm for the pair… Kim finally had enough of my dithering and bought them for me. She says they look perfect. I tend to think she might have a point, even if they do only hold about 4 gallons each.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010008.jpg)

We also got a real good deal on 20 feet of 6" wide canvas belting to put on the rear wheels until finances allow us to get 1/4" x 7" flat bar rolled.

#46

Sooner or later I might get the hang of using the smaller lathe. For now it’s about all I can do to get the bloody belts to stay on! (I think they need tightened, but it isn’t my call) I needed to enlarge the bore on the crankshaft bushing. I’m sure I probably did it all “wrong”, but this accomplished the job with very little trouble

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010007_02-1.jpg)

The next project on the agenda was to turn the dog clutch to accept a ring sprocket. I got lucky there were no hard spots in the old iron casting. The sprocket is a 17 tooth #40 - the smallest that would fit without needing reboring.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010008_02.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010009_01-1.jpg)

A quick mock up to double check everything shows I must not be quite as dumb as I look… It’s actually gonna work!

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010025_01.jpg)

#47

One of the really nice things about “freescale” model building is you can change your mind, tear things out, even start over in a different direction, and it’s still “right”…

When I built the frame two years ago, I knew I was running the beads on the rear crossmember a little cold - unfortunately, with an AC box that also meant minimal penetration. So when a short weld broke (in it’s and my defense I WAS doing some “precision adjustments” with an 8# hammer), I took it as permission to rethink the entire platform/bunker area.

When I first envisioned this thing it was to be a true 1/3 scale traction engine. That meant rear wheels in the 25-28" range. The wheels I ended up using are 36" - making this pretty much a small boilered half scale.

It also meant the platform was well above knee level. With not much room for 1:1 scale feet, either.

The re-design will be a two level platform. The rear part will be about 5" lower than the front. Possibly allowing a lower canopy… and more importantly it will also be nearly 3" wider. (or enough to turn around without twisting an ankle for most folks!)

I started cutting stuff out on Sunday, and re-welded enough yesterday to ensure I’ll remember what I had in mind… Unfortunately, with Portersville’s 50th show coming up in just 2 weeks, I doubt I’ll have much in the way of time in the near future to finish anything up on it!

I also had a large “durrrrrrr!” moment concerning the smokebox. I had been trying to decide for days whether it would be better to use a hole saw and hand drill or acetylene torch to cut the 3/4" hole in the side for the exhaust line. It suddenly dawned on me last night that it’s just BOLTED to the boiler… as in “simply UNbolt the thing and stick in the big drill press”…

On the plus side, even unfinished, the little roller WILL be on public display in the steam building August 2-5 for those who want a closer look. Those who’ve looked at it already have proclaimed it “cute as a button”… Just how cute ARE buttons supposed to be?

#48

I was supposed to be helping the electrician over at the showgrounds today… He was late, and it was raining anyway, so I had some time to kill. I found that the spacer collars from the manure spreader axle fit inside the wheel centers. They’ll hold the wheels on just fine and also give it a nice, finished look.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010027_01.jpg)

I’m not a fan of welding during a thunderstorm, so I did other things. This is 5/4"x 6" deck stuff. I haven’t decided whether to clear coat it or paint it grey.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010031.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010030_01.jpg)

Drilling the 7/8" hole for the exhaust line took a while… but then the smokebox is the same schedule 40 as the boiler (almost 3/8" thick)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010037.jpg)

The piece needed for the exhaust pipe is an odd length. No choice but to custom cut and thread it. Luckily the club has a nice Ridgid pipe vice and threader.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010032.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010033.jpg)

All that for this. The electrician finally showed about 3 hours late, so I didn’t get the elbow and nozzle inside the smokebox installed. But I got the nipple that runs through the side screwed on, so at least it shouldn’t snap the pipe off if someone leans on it.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010038.jpg)

#49

Finally, another mini-update - Today I built the front roll scraper. It may not look like a major project, but it took me almost 4 hours! This is one of those parts that has to be slightly oversized for durability’s sake. The first step was to make the 2 actual scraper bars. Some 1/8" x 2" strap welded to a piece of 1-1/4" pipe. Getting the amperage right so the 6010 rods would neither stick, nor burn through was a bit tricky with the ancient Forney AC box I was using!

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9110001.jpg)

Then the 2" channel side brackets were welded to one of the scraper bars.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9110002.jpg)

Set in place and welded to the roll bracket

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9110003.jpg)

And finally the front scraper bar was welded in place and the sides were cut to length.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9110005.jpg)

#50

Today was a day to make what looked like a lot of headway just because the pieces were huge. I was looking for 3/16 sheet to make these two platform sides, but I found some 1/4" plate at a really good price. I decided to use solid pieces instead of open bracework for one very good reason - I didn’t want kids getting tangled up in the driveline. Since I had good sturdy plate, I decided that the best way to mount the countershaft would be to drill the upper front corner and mount flange bearings. It took me about 2 hours to lay out and drill all the holes. One of them had to be 1-1/2" in diameter to clear the differential (so the chains line up). It was probably a good thing I had access to the machine shop at the showgrounds!

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9130001.jpg)

The left side also got the 1-1/2" bore hand pump mounted before getting welded in place.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9130002.jpg)

Clamped in place and ready to weld.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9130003.jpg)

The actual top side welding took about 20 minutes. I’ll need to pull the rear wheels to do the lower welds. After that I’ll mount the countershaft

#51

Yesterday I spent a whole day working on this. Well, more like work a bit, sit and think, spend a goodly while digging around trying to find where you just set down the part you need, sit and rest, err, daydream, err, think again, then work a bit more. Part of the reason I’m on disability is I gotta sit and think so much… I’m like a young old geezer. A quick mock up of the hotdog cooler bunkers to get an idea of how to proceed…

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140001-1.jpg)

A start on the support framework - I used up what angle stock I had along… Good thing there’s a bit more in the shed.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140015.jpg)

With the coolers temporarily set back in place it’s starting to look real good

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140013.jpg)

This bit of leftover manure spreader steering axle bracket will perform a very important function… helping to keep the front roll from trying to fold on rough ground

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140012.jpg)

Since it started to thunder I decided the wisest course was to disconnect the welder. So I spent a bit painting the front roll bracket black… Unfortunately, the can of Rustoleum had frozen at some point, so it was kind of like painting with pudding.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140016.jpg)

After the rain stopped I added this brace made from a leftover short bit from the scraper bracket. I doubted the bearing mounted in the plate is gonna move, but the engine bracket was a different story.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140014.jpg)

And yes, I also assembled and installed the differential (often referred to as a "compensating gear in the old literature) - good thing I was planning on relocating that injector anyway…

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9140017.jpg)

I ran out of light and it was starting to rain again, so that’s as far as I got.

#52

Today was sort of a half day. And I got a lot less done than I wanted to. I probably spent 3 hours plus trying to re-route the injector lines. Mixing and matching various length pipe nipples to get things to line up. Two are done, leaving just the suction line to figure out… and all the hand pump lines.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9170001.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9170002.jpg)

I made a bracket for an outboard bearing on the countershaft since I wasn’t sure about 3" sticking out unsupported.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9170004.jpg)

Well, the coolers still aren’t fastened down, but they are nearly ready to. I need to cut a few bits yet, but all the teeth wore off the sawzall blade I was using.I threw a quick base coat of paint on the rear end even though it isn’t finished because I needed to use up the end of the grey.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9170003.jpg)

Once again I ran out of light. It’ll probably be Friday before I get back to it again.

#53

Biggish update! I got a lot of weird little things done, some I have pix of, some didn’t come out. One that the pic didn’t come out was the exhaust piping inside the smokebox. It was pretty much a 3 handed job with room for none. Things got really interesting when the stupid channel locks slipped, hit the trouble light and sprayed broken glass and sparks in my face… there’s a REASON I always get polycarb lenses! If you remember the test fire from 2010, then you’ll recall this boiler doesn’t draw worth a hoot (it was originally designed for an undermounted, with the typical short chimney) So in order to help the boiler draft better I decided I needed to lengthen the stack… Just how tall was the question. The piece I had to splice on was just a LITTLE BIT too long

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9190001_zps5d7e0789.jpg)

I cut it off the same height as the top of the governor. But it still wasn’t right. (A spark arrestor will be made from this wing fryer basket I found at a flea market for 50c, more on that in a day or three)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9190003_zps5809f2a0.jpg)

So I tried once again, this time I think it looks acceptable. If you’ve ever used little Ridgid pipe cutters to do household plumbing, here’s one on steroids… It will cut up to 6"

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9210001_zpsb8f4738c.jpg)

On to something interesting. I got this lever off the same manure spreader the wheels came from. It will make a dandy Johnson bar.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9210002_zps317fe7b6.jpg)

And hooked up. The notches for forward and reverse are only about an inch apart.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9210004_zpsaed1aede.jpg)

Some very light used 3" channel made a good looking countershaft shield

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9210005_zps99ab9f7d.jpg)

Then I worked on the feedwater piping some more, but didn’t take a pic I thought long and hard about how to do the depressed section of the platform. I really wanted to use 5/4 wolmanized like the upper platform, but also needed to make the whole thing strong enough to be used as a tie down point when the roller gets trailered. Well, I had this bit of diamond plate seasoning in the shed, so I decided to go the lazy route and just use it to make the depressed section. I may bolt wood to it later.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9190004_zps85240544.jpg)

The bunker supports are done. They hold my weight without moving. I need to get a couple bulkhead connectors yet, before I mount the hotdog coolers, but I’m actually pleased with how it looks so far.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9210006_zps88c5c67d.jpg)

I had to quit early because I had a meeting, so that’s all for this update. thanks for looking!

#54

I promised to get back to the spark arrestor, so that is today’s update. Guys who run the live steam in the grand scales are quite welcome to borrow my design… This thing is a real high dollar deal. 50c for the wing basket, plus $3 for a weather flange. The stainless basket will probably outlast 3 or 4 flanges, but that’s OK. Both will be easily replaceable.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9230001_zps60191477.jpg)

The axles just snapped off (some baskets don’t even have them), then I cut a hole the size of the chimney internal diameter in one end and removed the internal paddles

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9230002_zpsaa44f99d.jpg)

Speaking of those paddles, they’ll make dandy G scale man gates.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9230003_zpscaac67af.jpg)

Six screw holes drilled in the weather flange will allow it to be attached firmly to the basket, yet still easily separated.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9230004_zpsae04e61b.jpg)

I also bent the excess flange up around the edges of the basket to make it look a bit more 'professional"

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9230005_zps9cbb2766.jpg)

approximately 20 minutes work, and it was done. When I go over next I’ll mount it on the stack.

#55

Weekend Update (And no, I’m still not Chevy Chase): The weather flange was a bit oversized, so I ‘cold forged’ an adaptor ring out of flat bar

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9280001.jpg)

I also bent the handle for the hand pump to go through the ‘window’ in the side plate while I was in the blacksmith shop.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290013.jpg)

Aaand, spark arrestor installed. I’ll drill it for a couple retaining screws when I mount the bunkers.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9280003.jpg)

The final drive chains took an hour or so to get them both right. Mostly because there’s no provision for a tightener. We had to run to the store for half (offset) links. I’ll mount wick lubricators later to keep the chains from wearing too much. Oil is always a LOT cheaper than hard parts.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9280004.jpg)

About twelve years ago I found these military surplus cable controls at a flea market. I think I gave $10 for them. They are handsome, but useless to me as-is

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290007.jpg)

So the first order of business was to tear it apart. The frames are aluminum and won’t be used, but the levers themselves are good cast with brass hardware.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290009.jpg)

One was stripped to use as a throttle

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290008.jpg)

Installation started. This was the best solution I could think of that didn’t require attaching them directly to the boiler.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290012.jpg)

The cable plate from the levers just happened to be drilled with the proper spacing to use it on the cylinder drains. I’ll probably grind it dogbone shaped just for looks before we’re done.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290010.jpg)

Meanwhile, I gave the coolers a base coat while I had grey out to paint the supports under them. Next time I’ll fasten them down with sheetmetal screws.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290011.jpg)

Next weekend is Portersville’s Fall show, so whatever I get done Monday will be whatever it looks like for a while. We’ll have steam cooked apple butter and steam pressed cider for sale during the show, too.

#56

Well, today was probably the last uninterrupted day to work on this thing until after the fall show (Tomorrow starts apple peeling for apple butter). So I got some stuff done that I had been putting off. The first order of business was to change out the throttle valve. Why? Because somebody “made me an offer I couldn’t resist” for the butterfly valve… and it simplified the throttle reach rod geometry in the process, anyway. Old layout with butterfly throttle valve: throttle reach rod and pressure gauge would have tried to occupy the same space.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9280005.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P9290012.jpg)

Butterfly valve (right), and the steam rated ball valve which will replace it.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA010015.jpg)

To get the handle to point in the right direction, a little cut and weld was in order.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA010016.jpg)

Now the handle, when fully closed, is just beyond parallel with the pipe rather than perpendicular to it.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA010017.jpg)

The reach rod now runs alongside the gauge with just a bit of room to spare.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA010018.jpg)

I also timed the engine (I simply hadn’t reset it after I made the new crankshaft) and installed the governor belt. Every step towards completion reminds me of 3 more things I still have to do. One thing I’m having a bit of trouble locating is bulkhead fittings for bottom of the coolers.

#57

A couple weeks ago Ben brazed the sprocket to the dog clutch (I’m out of gas, and too broke to buy more)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA240003.jpg)

Cleaned up and ready to install

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA240004.jpg)

One of those many little parts that needed made, the front roll brace is 5/8"x 1" solid bar.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/PA250011.jpg)

Kim had a director’s meeting this evening so I went over to finish up a few things before they got misplaced. Today may well have been the last day to work on this until spring. It was 39*F in the boilerhouse according to the thermometer hanging on the wall. My fingers got so numb I didn’t realize how hot a piece of metal was until I’d already burnt them. So I spent the remainder of the evening trying to work wearing welding gloves… First I fitted the #40 primary drive chain. I thought I did good with cold fingers, I only dropped it 3 times

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010036.jpg)

Then I ground a custom key for the crankshaft (and burnt my fingers with it… Who needs fingerprints anyway?). I still need to change the bolt in the flywheel hub for a shorter one or a setscrew.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010037-1.jpg)

And finally, I started to assemble the clutch throwout before I forgot how I wanted to do it. The brackets and linkages will be built in place because of all the stuff they have to clear.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010038-1.jpg)

Maybe we’ll have a couple nice days in a row in December to work… Unfortunately, even if we get them, it will probably take 2 or 3 days to pull the chill out of the metal. (I don’t have a torpedo heater, and little ceramic cubes don’t put out enough heat)

#58

Well, winter was longer and colder than expected, and I spent much of my spare time and $$ helping a friend who was having health & marital problems, anyway. But I found a few small needed pieces in some scrap and swarf that was headed to be recycled this week. So I finally made a little progress. Starting with the mounting bracket.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P5180043_zps84a351f7.jpg)

A bit further along. One man’s useless junk is another’s “just what I’ve been looking for”

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P5200015_zps51baac15.jpg)

Still needs a quadrant and handle (and oiler), but is already fully functional. (http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P5200016_zpsc07e6657.jpg)

Next up? Finish the hand pump and see about side tanks.

#59

Did a bit more yesterday before the rains set in. Fabricated a couple braces and the handle & quadrant for the clutch. I also built the detent, but didn’t get it installed.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010039_zps86a11b08.jpg)

And a couple apron bars from a manure spreader became rear canopy supports.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P1010041_zps8d5c6853.jpg)

#60

This past Tuesday, Kim had to go to a Director’s meeting at the showgrounds. So while she got frustrated with a bunch of stubborn old men, I got to take my frustrations out. Some wit pointed out a couple weeks ago that “Steam rollers don’t have strakes on the rear wheels…” Well, no sh-t, Sherlock! I just hadn’t gotten around to removing them.

So grind the head off 80+ yo rivets, drive a screwdriver underneath and ‘pop!’ lots of heavy beating to drive the rivets out tho.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P6110001_zpsd4ed436e.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P6110004_zps6b39bea6.jpg)

I also finished (except for a spring) the detent latch on the clutch, using the one from the lever I used for the throttle.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P6110002_zps7bf90c73.jpg)

My buddy Ben brought over a pair of these to see if they could be cut down for side water tanks… I think they’re a little fat, and thin so they’ll rust out in a few years - but they may have to do if I don’t find 12" diameter ones.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/P6110005_zps020b7933.jpg)