I had my big hauler engine running today. All of a sudden the gears started to slip. This happened once before and I found that the small screws that hold the motor to the metal box frame (not sure what it is called) came loose. I had to tighten the screws. This time I was too late and the gear stripped on me. (The plastic gear that goes with the metal motor gear) I sent Bachmann service department an e-mail in hopes of getting a new gear. Does anyone know what that gear is called and how is the service dept as far as responding back? Looking at the gear it looks like it might be tough to get at considering I have to take the whole engine apart. Is there an easier way to get at the motor and gears? Can those gears be replaced with metal gears. Never understood why they would use plastic gears. (Bachmann Quality)
Now I just have to wait for my uniform allowence check to come i so I can get that hartland loco. Good thing I have another engine to run, not sure what I would do without an engine to run on the layout.
Shawn,
although it is only the Connie that comes to mention with loose motor mount screws, I have yet to see an Anniversary that did not need the mount screws tightened. On every stripdown/build that I do, the screws are always loose. I feel that a new gearbox is required.
Also never email B'mann Service Dept. It seems they do not answer emails (only the phone).Where are these screws? I’ve run my Annie bazillions of hours (exaggeration!) and never tightened them. Maybe I should?
The metal box/casing that goes around the gears and then there are two small screws that holds the metal gear casing to the motor. They came loose a few times causing the motor to shift away from the first gear. No matter how hard i tighten them they come loose. I have had the engine for less than a year so it should be covered under warranty, problem is I no longer have invoice and I dont remeber if I sent the warrenty card out. (Im pretty sure I did though)
Tim Brien said:
Shawn, although it is only the Connie that comes to mention with loose motor mount screws, I have yet to see an Anniversary that did not need the mount screws tightened. On every stripdown/build that I do, the screws are always loose. I feel that a new gearbox is required.Also never email B'mann Service Dept. It seems they do not answer emails (only the phone).</blockquote>When you say gear box is that all the gears plus the metal casing and is it easy to do? What is the cost
Shawn,
you will need to contact Bachmann Service department by phone. If less than 12 months old and warranty card filled out and posted in and purchased new from an authorised Bachmann dealer, then you should be covered by warranty. If not, then it will cost you postage plus their normal service fee. End result is that you would most likely find it cheaper to buy a used loco on eBay and strip it. If an Anniversary or version 5 Big Hauler then parts easily changed. Other versions I do not use as they are problematic and spares apparently not readily available (except maybe from cannibalised returned locomotives).
Tom,
Anniversary or Version 5 Big Hauler (same gearbox/motor, but different wheelsets) attach the motor with two phillips headed screws to a sandwich metal block. This block is then attached to the gearbox with two very small (thin and long) screws. These screws you need a jewellers screwdriver set to remove/install. The right side rear drive wheel also needs to be removed to check tighten these screws. The screws that attach the sandwich mount block to the motor are the ones I normally find loose. This requires gearbox removal to access the screws. The gearbox needs to be sparated from the motor mount block to be able to check tighten the motor mounting screws.
Hmm. I’ve never had my gearbox out.
Keeping a tube of blue Loctite on the workbench is not a bad idea.
Victor Smith said:Good idea. I just ordered a new gear box from Bach. Cost is 25 bucks. I will have to use the loctite on the new one so that problem does not occure again. One good thing out of it is a started to paint my LGB loco. That awful green and black color. So far looks good just needs some weathering and detail. I will post some pictures later of it.
Keeping a tube of blue Loctite on the workbench is not a bad idea.
All too familiar, happens to be how I got into business.
First, the gear that stripped, right after (or meshing with) is a worm gear(which engages a worm). As in the original, gear quality is excellent, it is the mesh that went away. The worm is mated with a smaller spur gear (now a cluster gear) which engages another spur, etc. until the axle gear is engaged.
If you think my evaluation of the gear quality is askew, I have an LGB 2-4-0 with two cluster gears stripped and the motor hasn’t moved (probably over stressed the drive capacity. And there are going to be a lot more of these failures.
There a couple of sets of screws to check. There are two long screws which attach the gear box frame to the block surrounding the motor collar. There are two bolts one above and the other below the output shaft holding the mounting block in place on the motor. These should be removed, apply Loctite (or Super glue) replace, attach the gearbox frame. insert the long bolts after applying Loctite to the threads (or superglue). Some of the earlier gearboxes had a guide pin in the gearbox mounting block on the motor. Please note the long bolts only go in one side, the other is the thread in the gearbox frame.
This is an excellent SMALL gearbox, don’t over stress it and it will last a long time. If you want to pull more than eight cars (maybe six) come and see me, my drives in a Big Hauler pull twenty - plus.
To make the Plus drive Big Hauler last longer, the motor has to be firmly held in place. Remove the Cab and Boiler. Remove the bottom plate from the drive chassis, lay the screws out in a manner which will help you put the right length in the right hole. Get a wire tie 3/16" to 1/4" wide and about 12" long. From the top, next to the weight, sight down past the weight and into the chassis past the motor, slide the tail of the wire tie down through this path, pull the wire tie until the locking block on the wiretie is equal to the tp of the weight. Wrap the wire tie around the motor. Make sure the motor is in the mounts provided. Guide the wire tie back up past the motor, inside the frame and up past the weight. Check the route all of the way around, then slip the tail of the wire tie through the locking block on the wiretie, and start drawing it tight, continue until everything is firm.
Clip off the excess tail from the wire tie and then reassemble. While you have it open, put a bit of synthetic grease on the gears.
Any questions, let me know.
Barry - BBT
Thanks Barry. As soon as the new gears come in I will let you kow how I make out. What did everyone do before the internet. Thanks again for the help.
Shawn -
Before the internet?
As to corporate interaction, prior to e-mail the only alternative was for people called them with problems and they expected people to do so. The alternative was to have them call others and report the poor service.
Wendell
Shawn,
Don’t know what gears you are ordering, if you have any difficulties, let me know.
I’m probably cheaper that B’man.
Barry - BBT
Barry Olsen said:
Shawn,Don’t know what gears you are ordering, if you have any difficulties, let me know.
I’m probably cheaper that B’man.
Barry - BBT
Bach said I had to order the whole gear block and cost was $25. Im still waiting and they are located in Phily. Should only take 2 days. I have a feeling it will be weeks. Would not suprise me. I didnt realize I could have gotten it from you.
Shawn,
I may be a hidden resource. At least I am a packrat. I have gears from the original Big Hauler, Battery-powered.
Also, Plus gears, but I have found some new and interesting applications for them.
Plus type pickups, half have failed (collapsed). Since my repowering replaces all mechanical parts, I have saved the remnants.
Barry - BBT
Barry
I got the new new gear box in the mail. So far it looks fairly easy only problem now is how do you get the wheels off the whole gear.motor block?
Shawn,
You have to remove the plastic spoke insert, under which you will see a phillips screw, remove it and the wheel will come off. If your loco doesn’t have this same type of wheel, you will have to use the wheel which came with it and probably swap the spoke insert to match the other wheels.
NOTE: Remove the spoke insert by pressing on the insert from the back of the wheel around the “wheel weight”, then pry out the insert from the front with a small, 1/8" flat screw driver.
Study this situation, you may not need to take the wheels off to mount the motor in the chassis.
I need to take some pictures.
Barry - BBT
I was able to get the plastic spokes off the wheel no screws though. I just had to pull the wheels away and they slipped right off. Thanks again
Barry Well I got the engine back together. I had to re solder a few wires but was not bad. I ran the engine for a test run and it ran ok but then after a loop or less it just died. I shut the power off looked at the engine everything seemed ok. I put it on a gain and again it ran for a little and then stopped. I rechecked all the wires and did it again this time it seemed ok. I also finally added Barry’s new pilot truck to the front. It is much better design although it still jumps, it seems that the trucks go to high up causing the cow catcher to drag at times. Not sure why. here are a few pictures of how it looks. Not sure if I did something wrong. Do the wires go through the same hole that the old pilot went through. The whole the spring ran along?
(http://i36.tinypic.com/35i0yzc.jpg)
