Hi all,
I got a few quick questions:
Where can on buy the rails for track, single length to actually produce hand laid track?
Any great sites on the steps to build hand laid track?
And what tools will I need?
And of course what is a good readily available “ballast†material to use?
I read some where that “Starter Chicken Feed†makes a good ballast, but how much will I need for about 500 foot length railroad?
Thanks to all in advance!
John Sessa
John, have you decided on code (height), type (brass, nickle silver, stainless, aluminum), and whether you are going to run track power or not?
Also if you want real wood ties or plastic? What tie spacing? 1:32 SG, 1:29 SG, or 1:20.3 or other narrow gauge?
I think you need the answers to all these questions to narrow down what you can choose from.
Regards, Greg
Will you be running outdoors? Or inside? Big difference…
Here’s a site you might be interested in: http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/construction/lsbuild/lstrack.html
Besides that article, they have lots of other tips.
Is there a specific reason you want to handlay track?
couple good sources…
http://www.llagastrack.com
http://www.svrronline.com/
http://antiques-internet.com/colorado/rgsrrhobbies/dynapage/PP05.htm
Tools…
as for ballast crusher fines or screenings work good…bout $20 a ton…
In addition to the above, NMRA dimensional standards for track are found at:
Happy RRing,
Jerry
You in New England?
I would think several times before handlaying outdoors.
I can get into specifics, but first need to know your general locale.
TOC
I handlay 100% of my track and turnouts, …I used the Saskatoon Modelers site that Bruce posted earlier for inspiration until I realy figgered out what I was doing on my own. Anytime ya’d care to chat about it I’m in and out of the Chat here at LSC pretty much anytime between 0600 and 2100 or so, just drop a line and be patient, I do have a job that takes me away from the IMPORTANT STUFF from timeto time. I used California & Oregon Creek Ry rail…Stretch is a helluva guy! I cut ties on my bandsaw and use wire nails from the hardware store as spikes…
Thanks for all the info and inquiries!
I plan on an outdoor setup in Northern New Jersey, way up in the hills right by Hidden Valley Ski Slope.
As for why I want to hand lay my track, I was just thinking of a better looking track on wooden ties instead of those plastic “fake wood†ties. Maybe I’m reaching out too far too soon!
Anyway, I want to thank everyone for all the information.
John
I would surely suggest that you use ready made track for your first layout. There is quite a learning curve in dealing with track and Mother Nature. The ready made stuff holds up a WHOLE lot better. A coat of paint takes care of the plastic look, and after a year natural weathering will take care of any other concerns 
Once operational you can always go back and try your hand at hand laying an area…especially one you like to take photos of.
Warren
Naaaaaaa…jump right in…I’ve never used anything but handlaid…ever…
Warren Mumpower said:
I would surely suggest that you use ready made track for your first layout. There is quite a learning curve in dealing with track and Mother Nature. The ready made stuff holds up a WHOLE lot better. A coat of paint takes care of the plastic look, and after a year natural weathering will take care of any other concerns :D Once operational you can always go back and try your hand at hand laying an area...especially one you like to take photos of.Warren
Never discourage someone who has the gumption to build his own.
OK on that handlaying stuff, I read the Saskatoon thread; if it stands up on the Canadian Prairies it will stand up in NJ. No, that part of SK isn’t on permafrost!
I looked at the pricing on the Canadian web site, but the comparisons are pretty way off even allowing for the exchange rate.
By my calculations it is actually cheaper to buy ready made track than make your own.
Looking at Aristo the basic cost of brass is c$2.50 per foot, SS $3.
The cost of rail is c$2.20 and $2.60 per foot so you have 30 cents or so to pay for everything else.
Even if you buy the plastic sleepers/ties seperately, we are just looking at 80 cents a foot.
Now there may well be cost savings in points/switches.
For me it takes about 6 ft of rail to lay a No6 turnout…I get rail in 90 ft bundles (Code 250 Aluminum from C&OC Ry) fer right at $30…now if yer talking brass or SS thats another story alltogether…So 15 sticks of rail = 15 turnouts…$10 for a cedar fence board to supply batten and ties…plus incidentals of wire nails to hold the ties down…and eustucheaon pins for spikes thats like 15 turnouts for under $50 …sounds like a savings to me!
Even using Aristo Code 332, the price would be a tenner each…
One tenth the price of Aristo.
So sounds like do your own switches/points but not bother with track.
David Tomkins said:
I looked at the pricing on the Canadian web site, but the comparisons are pretty way off even allowing for the exchange rate.By my calculations it is actually cheaper to buy ready made track than make your own.
Looking at Aristo the basic cost of brass is c$2.50 per foot, SS $3.
The cost of rail is c$2.20 and $2.60 per foot so you have 30 cents or so to pay for everything else.
Even if you buy the plastic sleepers/ties seperately, we are just looking at 80 cents a foot.
Now there may well be cost savings in points/switches.
The problems with using cost figures in any “How to” article are: flactuations in exchange rate, inflation and inexpensive sources that exit the market. Apart from that, who says they found the most cost effective source. 
My reason for handlaying turnouts: I get what I want at the price I’m prepared to pay.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:David Tomkins said:
I looked at the pricing on the Canadian web site, but the comparisons are pretty way off even allowing for the exchange rate.By my calculations it is actually cheaper to buy ready made track than make your own.
Looking at Aristo the basic cost of brass is c$2.50 per foot, SS $3.
The cost of rail is c$2.20 and $2.60 per foot so you have 30 cents or so to pay for everything else.
Even if you buy the plastic sleepers/ties seperately, we are just looking at 80 cents a foot.
Now there may well be cost savings in points/switches.
Hi David,The problems with using cost figures in any “How to” article are: flactuations in exchange rate, inflation and inexpensive sources that exit the market. Apart from that, who says they found the most cost effective source.
My reason for handlaying turnouts: I get what I want at the price I’m prepared to pay.
Lies, damned lies and statistics.
I only looked at this from a pure cost point of view, it is a hobby so other factors come into play.
David said:
Well the link was quoted as a resourse, if the numbers had been 10% or so wrong, I would not have bothered, but they were so far out that they turned the whole proposition upside down for track.Lies, damned lies and statistics.
I only looked at this from a pure cost point of view, it is a hobby so other factors come into play.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:David said:
Well the link was quoted as a resourse, if the numbers had been 10% or so wrong, I would not have bothered, but they were so far out that they turned the whole proposition upside down for track.Lies, damned lies and statistics.
I only looked at this from a pure cost point of view, it is a hobby so other factors come into play.
That info dates back to the bad old days when the Can$ was only worth US$-.65 - 0.70 in the meantime we are back up in the high 80s and low 90s range (HURRAY!)
I looked at current US prices for my comparison, but of course the balance could have been different then, especially if it was some time ago.
David said:
They use Canadian Dollars in Berwickshire? I would have expected a Scottish fiver might work.I looked at current US prices for my comparison, but of course the balance could have been different then, especially if it was some time ago.
I don’t know what they use in Berwickshire (which country??), but I’m sure they use Can$ in Saskatoon and the rest of Saskatchewan.
Well, let me clarify, they did last time I was there.