Hi everyone,
I just bought some of the campac coupler adaptors for my black widow GP30. they come in a gray color resin so I need to paint them to blend into the loco. I’m new to painting on G scale and know I need UV resistant paint and am wondering what people have been using? I was also hoping someone might know what paint is a close match to USA trains SP black widow black paint. Any tips or ideas are welcome.
TIA, Dave
I usually use Rustoleum spray cans to paint locos and cars, it usually works fine for outdoors. If it is unpainted plastic, there is a line of paints that bond to plastic.
I’ve used Krylon Fusion with mixed results … was much better when I read the instructions. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
I would not be too concerned with UV protection unless you are planning on leaving it out 24 hours a day. However, if you think your really need it, one option is to pick a color you like and then just overspray it with Kryon or Rustoleum clear - they both have UV protection. I used to use Krylon all of the time, but the last time I used it, it did not cover at all; I switched to Rustoleum. Other folks have had the same experience in a different order… (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)
You don’t need a UV rated paint unless you will be leaving your model outdoors and even then some sun fading is actually “real” weathering.
I have been using rustoleum spray paints with great success for years. I try to use colours in satin or flat but not all their offerings come in that option, some are gloss. I always protect my work with a quick over spray of satin or matte clear not to protect it from UV rays but to protect it from the occasional scratch.
Don’t mix rustoleum with krylon because they can react and ruin your project. You should always test paints and shake the can really well.
I really like the sheen of Walmart brand black paint. I think they refer to it as flat. It adheres well, holds up and cost $1 per can. This might be good for your black widow project.
John, what problems did you have with the Krylon? Was it adhesion, or damaging plastic?
I’ve had good luck with 3d prints from filament printers, but these are SLA, I know.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
John, what problems did you have with the Krylon? Was it adhesion, or damaging plastic?
I’ve had good luck with 3d prints from filament printers, but these are SLA, I know.
Greg
I never heard of SLA filament. Did you mean PLA?
Greg Elmassian said:
John, what problems did you have with the Krylon? Was it adhesion, or damaging plastic?
I’ve had good luck with 3d prints from filament printers, but these are SLA, I know.
Greg
There was a proper waiting period between coats, mine crinkled. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)
But I saved it; my first G-bash …
So the first coat seemed ok, but the second coat crinkled? Weird.
Joe, “I’ve had good luck with 3d prints from filament printers**,** but these are SLA**,** I know.”
So,
I have had good luck painting with krylon from filament printers
but the stuff Dave is talking about is from an SLA printer
I know because Dave and I have both purchased the CamPac coupler mounts and I know the person printing them.
Those 3 things are in that sentence, the commas indicate the 3 separate pieces of information.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
So the first coat seemed ok, but the second coat crinkled? Weird.
Joe, “I’ve had good luck with 3d prints from filament printers**,** but these are SLA**,** I know.”
So,
I have had good luck painting with krylon from filament printers
but the stuff Dave is talking about is from an SLA printer
I know because Dave and I have both purchased the CamPac coupler mounts and I know the person printing them.
No, Actually what happens is the first coat crinkled because it wasn’t still soft enough to bind with the second coat, or dry enough to withstand the
solvents of the second coat, hence the warning about application times on the cans(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
So, the problem occurred because John did not wait long enough for the second coat?
Most probably,
Some paints, like some Krylons will say that you can top coat anytime but most brands will have a statement something like "top coat within 1 hour or wait 24-48 hours.
I have found it best to wait till you can no longer smell solvent on the paint job before applying another coat. YMMV
I’m usually paranoid about waiting at least a day for a second coat. I get how you can apply a second coat pretty soon with some paints, but I usually get runs when I do that.
Greg
I have no experience painting the resin parts from an SLA printer but I’m thinking you would want to coat with some sort of UV protective paint as I understand they can continue to cure (and possibly shrink) when exposed to UV light especially if not properly post cured.
I personally prefer Rust-Oleum paints for PLA prints and have had very good results using Rust-Oleum 2 in 1 Filler & Sandable Primer for smoothing. Although I may be a bit bias as I own quite a bit of RPM stock. Hey, might as well pay myself right?
Actually, if you read up on the SLA process and resins, the very fact that they are UV cured, means that they have proven to be more UV resistant (outside) than other plastics.
That said, any plastic outdoors will be affected by UV eventually, but the bottom line is this stuff is tougher than other, normal plastics and resins.
Greg
[duplicate post deleted]
In case you want to read up on its properies, this is the particular resin used to make the CamPac boxes: https://formlabs.com/materials/standard/
Eric Reuter said:
In case you want to read up on its properies, this is the particular resin used to make the CamPac boxes: https://formlabs.com/materials/standard/
Yes, i figured they were printed using the standard resin. The problem is, There is little information about the use of resin parts outdoors. A few months ago, I spoke with a formlabs representative who told me none of their resins are suitable for outside use. The documentation on the formlabs site supports this including by request white papers by never mentioning outdoor use. I’m interested in SLA but will not spend the $$$$ if the parts don’t last outdoors.
Wow thanks everyone for the responses. I’ll give the Krylon and rustoleum a shot on a test piece. Like the idea of UV clear for both UV and scratch protection. I wonder if you can reduce cure time by heating the part say to 150 deg to reduce the risk of crinkling.
My crinkling was because my previous rattle can experience was; if dry and not sticky to the touch, I was good to go.
As Rick stated, that wasn’t enough. The paint had just hit the market and I rushed to try it…
Best results to you.
