Large Scale Central

Need Opinions on THis Locomotive

Hello all…

Not sure where to post this, so if it is in the wrong place, let me know and I will move it.

I recently picked up a Piko Mogul…I converted to battery power recently and I really like the engine except for the paint scheme. (See Picture) I did some research and have found a couple of pictures of D&RG locomotives painted with a green boiler, but that didnt seem like the prominent paint scheme.

I would like to paint the boiler and roof and detail out the engine a bit. I would like to here what you guys would do this locomotive.

THanks

Bob

Steam locomotives with bright colours have always looked toy like to my eyes.

I think a coat of Krylon Satin Black or Flat Black on the boiler would be an improvement.

Chose the Krylon that would best match the rest of the paint on the Piko Mogul.

Testors makes Metalizer paints. The darker Gun Metal to Burnt Metal colors would look great. The thing about this product is you can use the buffing versions which go on flat and then you buff them to the appropriate level of shine then clear coat over them. Spray the boiler jacket with these buff them out to your liking and then seal them and you have a planished or Russian Iron jacket. Spray the smoke box either flat black or silver depending on your desired look.

For the cab. The model has a steel cab. Paint it what ever color you like if you want it steel. Or you can pretty easily make it a wood cab by adding some styrene details to give panneled look under the windows or build of the window sills. If you go wood Kevin Strong has a genius way of doing the cab roof to simulate tin. Take the real aluminum duct tape and lay on over lapping layers then paint flat black. Here is a picture of mine done this way.

If you don’t own an air brush the Metalizer paint also comes in aerosol.

Waiting to hear what Kevin Strong has to say … He would know how to make it look real!

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Waiting to hear what Kevin Strong has to say … He would know how to make it look real!

yes he does.

I’d be tempted to remove the small dome and space the other two naturally, the steam dome farther back and the sand dome closer to the center of the wheel base. Add sand lines, pop off valve. A darker green and an over mist of coal dust for the red roof.

The key is ‘tempted’ however, I’m the one that put Professional in Pro-Crastinate, so follow your own path please.

John

Going Johns route with the domes I think would look better as well but that’s major surgery. If you do go that route consider using the smaller one in front and the bigger one in back. Not to disagree with John but as another option. Often the sand domes are smaller.

There are a ton of decent detail parts that could be added to really dress it up. Trackside Details or Ozark

I would also add a wood cab maybe stain it a dark color. Take the cow catcher thing off and replace with a nice wood bumper. I would paint the boiler with the Krylon or Rustoluem camo black. Maybe even replace the light and put one on top of smoke box. Maybe add a wood burning stack. Replace the running boards with real wood or glue real wood ones overtop the plastic. Paint all the silver parts black. Add some missing details like knobs on the piping etc…

Bob; welcome to LSC…

The Piko Mogul is basically a less expensive version of the Old LGB Mogul.

LGB modeled it with a simulated “Stephenson Link” valve gear, which is correct for the style of locomotive.

Piko, on the other hand has botched their efforts to have a reasonable model of any valve gear…leaving off the most important rod, so that the locomotive couldn’t run without it. To non purists, this doesn’t seem to matter, so it’s up to you whether you change it or not.

To change it, just means removing the simulated castings, and install the same type of arrangement that LGB used…not too much of a job, if you care to do it.

The other thing that you should consider installing, is a front coupler. I don’t have the locomotive in my hands, but you could probably look at the Kadee conversion coupler, used for the LGB Mogul, or the B’mann ten wheeler. This of course meens that you might consider converting to Kadee couplers on everything, while you haven’t too many pieces of equipment to convert…of course this is your choice.

Enjoy yourself, and have fun… Drop into the Chat Room and share your fun with the gang…you would be most welcome.

Fred Mills

I have had poor results with Krylon paint so I now use Rustoleum and the flat black cheapo $1 spray paint from Walmart.

I think the easiest route for Bob would be to leave what looks to be a dark grey on the smoke box, mask everything then spray a satin black on the green and Pennsy red roof. I have a PIKO 0-6-0 and what helped it appear better was to touch up the linkages with a dark grey. That bright silver looks too plasticky for me. You don’t have to paint it 100% I did mine with a small brush and just dirtied it up.

If there are any bits on there that are supposed to be wood you could paint those too with a wash of black, brown and grey.

Start small. Don’t go crazy all at once and throw some weathering on it here and there.

Happy RRing

I’m with you Todd. Krylon is a real gamble anymore. May bubble up on you and make a real mess. Had good luck with the Rustoleum 2X paint.

A few thoughts…

Details: The loco is in dire need of some added details. Definitely the appropriate piping for the air compressor, water injector lines, boiler bands, whistle, safety valves, bell cord, sanding levers, sanding lines, etc. (I’d add two boiler bands; one between the sand dome and rear steam dome, and one just forward of the cab wall.) The domes themselves are okay, though the steam dome is a little, well, little. You’d at the very least want to model some kind of lid on the two sand domes along with the sand lines. For the steam dome, I’d put two safety valves on the top, and then do a side-mounted whistle on the engineer’s side. If you wanted to replace them altogether, Trackside Details has some brass dome castings which would work well. You could just cut off the old domes and replace them with the TD domes, but that might get a little crowded. I’d be tempted in that case to re-wrap the boiler with .005" styrene and just go with one sand dome and one steam dome. (If you look at the loco, there’s already a molded “line” just above the running boards. I’d run the styrene wrapper from there, up and over to the other side and call it good.) Oh, and get rid of that European generator and replace it with a proper Pyle National generator, putting it between the rear sand dome and the front of the cab. If you wanted to get adventurous, you could move the headlight to the top of the firebox where the bell is, and move the bell, though with the two sand domes, steam dome, and generator, space on the top of the boiler is getting tight. You could mount the bell off to the side where the current generator is.

Valve Gear: Fr. Fred’s assessment of the Piko valve gear is pretty much on target. However, this loco has piston valves, and Stephenson’s valve gear was rarely used with piston valves. (I’ve never seen an example, though I cannot completely rule it out). I think just toning it down with some paint will work well. I’d use a medium steel color or gunmetal. You could also paint it black. Many railroads did not paint their valve gear because they could check for cracks much more easily (that, and it always got oily and dirty anyway), but there are plenty of examples where railroads did as well.

Paint: You can never go wrong with “basic black” on a steam loco. By the 1920s, that was pretty much what was being pushed out by the loco builders. The painted boilers as modeled on this loco follow a practice that originated in the individual railroads’ shops, I want to say sometime in the 30s or 40s. There are many rumors surrounding the origins of the D&RGW’s green boilers, but most point to the shops’ own initiative. The SP had a few locos with some wild jackets as well, believed to be the result of friendly competition in the shops. Blue and grey were popular if I recall history correctly. In almost all the cases I’m familiar with, the boiler jacket is painted in color, but the domes are black to match the cab and the rest of the loco. I’ve used dark green on some of my boilers, though it’s definitely a darker shade than what’s on this one. Great Northern Green is a good, dark green if you wanted to go that route. On locos for my dad’s railroad, I used a slightly lighter shade of green. (Krylon, I think, though I can’t remember the specific color.)

You can see how the addition of proper plumbing and boiler bands really tones down the excessive color. You can also see in this photo the toned-down valve gear, using graphite-colored paint and black. Handrails, also, should be painted black. That brass is decidedly too much. The smokebox can be flat black, graphite, silver, even glossy black. (You could tell when the East Broad Top prepped a loco for an excursion; its smokebox got a fresh coat of the glossiest black paint. Haven’t a clue how long it lasted–not long, though.) The graphite color comes from the early days when there were no paints which could stand up to the heat of the boiler, so the crews used oiled graphite to coat the outside of the smokebox. Later, more heat-resistant paints became available (that’s also when you saw the switch from plannished iron jackets to painted ones) and smokeboxes got painted instead. Some railroads went with silver paint–arguably in homage to the sheen of the graphite, while others went with black because, well, soot.

That’s at least my first gut instinct on what I’d do if one of these locos were to materialize on my workbench with a note attached that said “make me look good.”

Later,

K

WOW!..thank you all for the great suggestions. I think painting the boiler, cab roof and valve gear and detailing it out a bit is within the realm of my capabilities. Im not looking to do major surgery…after all…more time on the bench = less time on the track. :slight_smile: Im just trying to get rid of the “toy train” look.

I did google the LGB Mogul and boy did Piko do a crappy job.

Question…how to go about painting the valve gear without the paint drying and sticking the gear??? After painting them, run the engine slowly on the bench while the paint drys?

Thanks again

Bob

With a brush. I mean without having to take it all apart or trying to mask everything, a brush would be the easiest and on such small parts would look just fine.

Those colors are just fine, if a bit bright. Why not try some light weathering with some Rustoleum camo light brown? That way, you won’t have to disassemble the think. Just hold the can back 18-24 inches and let the paint drift down on the loco. Turn the loco over and use a darker color, say dark camo brown, same technique.

I also own a Piko Mogul and everybody’s comments will also help me.

I also need to somehow install a Kadee couple on the front of this. Has anybody tried?

I’m not sure comparing the Piko mogul to the LGB mogul is a fair comparison. LGB’s mogul is a fairly accurate scale model of an actual prototype. Piko’s mogul is purely freelance, far more in line with LGB’s 2-4-0 fantasy locomotive.

(Which I would characterize as being so far to the “toy” side where I don’t know that anything short of “total boiler replacement therapy” could help it.)

With regard to painting the running gear, just use a brush and don’t worry about it from there. The motion of the valve gear and a drop of oil will take care of any sticking that may occur from the paint. It’s so loose on there anyway. (Note: keep an eye on the valve gear retainer pins. The ones on my 0-6-0 worked loose and I ended up gluing them in. I don’t know if Piko’s changed that design or not. (One can certainly hope. They are, at least, no longer painting the wheel treads.)

Later,

K

Like I suggested earlier; I don’t have a Piko loco to experiment with, but from earlier experiences, I think a good start for mounting a coupler on the pilot, could start with the Kadee coupler recommended for the LGB Mogul, and B’mann 10 Wheeler.

Of course, using a Kadee coupler means hastily considering a conversion to their couplers for all equipment. Not a bad idea, but not necessarily everyone’s’ choice.

Kevin; I agree with your thoughts on the valve gear. My reason for suggesting the (Simulated) SL conversion, was that it would be rather simple to do, and could be said to be workable, in the real World…!!

Most of the conversions, and suggestions in this thread, are applicable to all the Piko locomotives based on their 0-6-0 drive.

Only their 0-6-0 switcher, seems to come with a front coupler. Not really a nice looking application. A switcher pilot might make a coupler application more easily achieved, using that pilot. I would gather that, if that part was available, it could be applied to all of the Piko locos using their 0-6-0 drive. Question is; is that part available ?

Any front coupler application, mounted in connection with the pilot truck, is not recommended…

Fred Mills

You guys all inspired me…so I went and picked up some satin black rustoleum and some of the Testors Model maker paints. I took apart the Mogul the best I could (couldnt figure out how to separate the front of the boiler, so I masked everything. I scuffed the boiler and cab roof with 220 grit sandpaper and went over everything with a wax and grease remover. Started with the inside of the cab roof…went on beautifully. Let that dry, flipped it over and sprayed the top…this is where things went south. It started to look like hammered metal. I checked the can, regular Rustoleum. I started to spray the boiler and the same thing was happening.

I let everything dry and it looks like shit! I took some paint thinner to the roof and got it all cleaned up. Again, I sanded it and cleaned it really good and sprayed it again…same thing.

So what am I doing wrong? Is this the wrong paint? It seemed to work fin on the under side of the cab.

The upshot is…I just got off the phone with Piko and I can buy a new boiler and cab roof…I can order it from another model that will be black.

Very Frustrated!!!

Oh Oh…something went wrong…not being in any way an expert on paints; you noticed that I didn’t get involved in paint suggestions…but there is an answer somewhere in this gang…The little painting that I have done has been successful, using just about any rattle can…I guess my luck has held out…

…may be the factor involved is how you hold your tongue, or if you go to the correct church…no…it’s gotta be the Whisky you drink…!!

Sorry for possibly too much humour…at the wrong time…!!

Fred