It may b that the Factory paint is repelling your new paint. If you can get it clean again, Try just misting the paint the on rather than trying for a single heavy coating. use several very light coats letting the paint dry (at least mostly) between coats.
Many things can effect how the paint goes on. Air temperature, distance from the the nozzle to the subject, how smooth or rough the subject is and so on. Personally (and I know many disagree with this) I do not use Rustolium, because the nozzles always clog up on me. The fist job out of the can looks good, after that its all orange peal or splatter for me, and yes, I always invert the can after a job and spray the nozzle clear.
On my Porter, I placed it up on a block of wood, ran power to it (through a tender power plug that I added to the locomotive) and ran the drivers at a slow to moderate speed while I airbrushed the running gear, with a few light coats. That keeps me from getting a mask shadow on the drivers from the rods, and keep the rods mobile.
I had a similar result using Fusion for Plastic spray can paint. In my case I didn’t follow the instructions(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif), I know! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)Go figure!
Once I read that tiny - for the other guy - print on the can I had excellent results.
John
John, I have noticed that too. Each year the print on packaging gets smaller and smaller. I wonder what they are trying to pull on us.
David,
I think they sell arm extenders to match your growing focal distance!(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Rooster I said focal.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)
sigh(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-sealed.gif)
John
John, I have the opposite problem. To read stuff I need to get it a little closer to my eyes each year.
clogged nozzles?
i don’t throw away nozzles from empty cans. i store them in a glas with thinner.
if a can does not spray, i just use one of the back up nozzles.
One of the biggest issues I’ve found with rattle can paints are re-coat times. Be sure to read the label and look for that information. Many Rustoleum paints have a re-coat time of within 1 hour or after 48. If you wait 2 hours between coats you end up with a mess. Many Krylon and Valspar paints that I have used have a re-coat spec of any time. There are so many different formulas on the market now that brand name alone does not indicate how a paint performs. Reading labels and experimenting on scrap are more important now than ever.
A trick for reading small print - If you have a phone or camera that does macro; take a picture, then you can zoom in it! Of course, if you have a magnifying glass that works too.
Korm Kormsen said:
clogged nozzles?
i don’t throw away nozzles from empty cans. i store them in a glas with thinner.
if a can does not spray, i just use one of the back up nozzles.
Korm I do that too, but I find with Rustolium, the clog is more often below the valve in the top of the can. I have thrown out almost as much Rustolium as I use, because they clog on me, no matter how much I shake and rattle then, nor how often I shake and rattle them. That why I prefer Krylon. But as I said in my original post, many here would disagree with me. It goes back to what works best for the person doing the job. Rustoliuim works best for some, Krylon works best for me.
Re: Fine Print
Oh I have readers, it’s just my habit to let the other guy read those things, 'cause I already know it all!(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
John
The reason the print keeps getting smaller is that the caveats needed to satisfy the crybaby EPA people keep getting greater. More text in a finite space and there is only one thing you can do - - make the type size smaller!
Andrew, yes, that’s true. But when they finally get to using micro printing, only those people with a microscope will be able to read them.
Update:
I decided to sand everything down, back to the original color if possible. Started with 60, 220, 400, 800 grit sandpaper. It took some time, but I got most of the horrible black paint off. I went down to my local OSH and was talking to the paint guy and telling him what happened. He says he gets tons of complaints about rustoleum these days and suggeted I try the OSH brand. I have used it on other projects in the past and it wasnt too bad so why not.
I started with the cab roof and it came out very nice with one coat (I did end up doing 3 coats) so I moved on to the boiler. I decide to lay it on its side (did both sides) and spray light coats and then hit it from the top. I think I did 5 coats on the boiler. I think it came out pretty nice…compared to the rustoleum Clusterf%&k. I let it dry for 24 hours and then unmasked it and put it back together…what a world of difference from that green. So today I decided to take a run at the valve gear…I diluted some flat black paint with some water and brushed it on in 2 light coats. I think it needs more but take a look at the picture and let me know what you think.
Monday, I plan to order some detail parts and do some more research on weathering. I tried my hand at the airbrush yesterday on some cardboard (been about 5 years since last used it) and I need to do some practicing before I try to paint anything.
Thanks for all of your input and ideas.
Bob
Nice work Bob. It looks pretty good! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
That turned out nice. I like the rods as they are.
John
That alone makes a world of difference.
Bob it looks much better
thumbs up. Adding detail parts and some additional weather will just make it even better. But you have already made a vast implement in it in my opinion.
Who did the decals?
David, do you turn the can upside down and spray for a couple of seconds after spraying?