Large Scale Central

Need bridge railing ideas

Track and Trestles
#1

Seeing how we are headed into the cold wintery months and the possibilities of me running trains outdoors is very slim, I decided to take inn the bridge that stretched across my pond and hopefully add some railings to it so it will dress it up a bit.
I built a very basic… but sturdy structure to go across the pond, it spans 10’ in length and it is free spanning.
I want a simple railing, I have seen some bridges that have what I would like…but I am told I can’t buy it…
Some have given suggestions about a wire fence material to use… but I really don’t understand what they were saying and what I should look for.
I will try and post a pic of the railing I am looking for, but I am open to suggestions. I will need 20’ of railing material.

Here is the bridge:

#2

#3

Split pins (cotter pins) and music wire (piano wire).

#4

(http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.historicbridges.org/truss/brgprail/bkg_07hbme422.JPG&imgrefurl=http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/169494/1861665.aspx&h=1704&w=2272&sz=662&tbnid=JS6EOt1GAGh9OM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=130&zoom=1&usg=__Reu_fQlMpLVV3xTdeRUI7l_UpGk=&docid=aPAU_z9RJ2RlOM&sa=X&ei=mU6aUvqRAsmk0QXAnIFg&ved=0CEoQ9QEwBA)Vincent consider track guard rails across your bridge before fixing side rails. It will be more easily achieved if done in the first instance.

#5

Ya want sumthin fancy, like what’s on the saloon?

Or just sumthin plain?

DollHouse Miniatures is where I got this one. They have simple railings too.

#6

Why not use metal rod, either brass or steel for railing. (steel will look good once rusted some) Cut some wood posts to the desired height. Drill holes through the wood and snake the steel rod through. You can get them from Tractor Supply, Lowes etc… You can even add bolts as details to were the post attach to the bridge or just use wood for railing. That’s as simple as you can get and would look nice.

And what do you mean not much running in the winter??? That’s the best time, especially with some snow and a live steamer with the plumes.

#7

Looks good as is!

#8

Why not use wire mesh fencing to make your railings from?

like this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gilbert-and-Bennet-309312A-Mat-24-in-x-25-1-in-Mesh-Galvanized-Welded-Mesh-Fence/21797102?action=product_interest&action_type=title&placement_id=irs_top&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=36209279899&category=0

just cut a strip out of it and that gives you a wire railing thats one piece and easy to shape and its a 1 inch tall strip that could be brad nailed or stapled to your trestle

#9

Vinnie,

Something like this maybe? John Lukowicz from Desert Bridges made this one for me. The railing size and locations match what I have on adjoining bridges with Garden Metal Bridges “catwalks and railings”.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/gary_armitstead/_forumfiles/woodbridge4reslsc.jpg)

#10

That is a nice looking bridge.
Do you want the railing to stop a train or a mini person from falling off the bridge? I like the cotter pin and wire idea. You could take some hardware clothe 1/2x1/2 " squares and cut a long enough piece for your bridge then cut out pieces to make it look like a handrailing. You could have as many or as few uprights as you want.
If you want something a bit more solid looking with a criss cross pattern you could use drywall corner bead which will give you about a 1" tall fence, or try the stuff used to keep leaves out of gutters (gutter guard) it comes in a roll in either black plastic or metal and cut it as tall as you want it.
If you are worried about a train falling off and into the drink you could put another layer or 2 of wood along the sides and make your bridge look like a girder bridge. Since you have a 10’ span you could make each girder section 2’ long. It would be just like the prototype but you might need support abutements to pull the look off.

I do like that cotter pin idea but you would need alot of pins every 6" or less I think.

#11

If you wish to use wood, Lowes, and/or Home Depot sell a trim piece for I think kitchens used on the top of cabinets which are about 2 1/4 " high and perhaps 36" long that consist of a base, turned dowels spaced 3" apart on center, and a top piece. These could either be stained to match your existing bridge or be painted to look like cast iron. Of course additional dowels could be added to tighten it visually. The base and top are approximately 3/4" deep x 15/16" high while the dowels themselves are about 1 1/4" tall. If this sounds interesting I’ll dig out a piece and try to post a photo…

They are called Decorative Rails (Furniture Quality) by Waddell Manufacturing,Stow, Ohio… Come in a 4’ length, and are available in Oak or Maple. The rails are “press fit” so adding spindles should be rather simple.

#12

Thanks for the replies everyone.
Phil, I think I know the piece you are talking about.
I will take a trip over to lowes tomorrow and see what they have.
If anyone has any pic’s of the cotter pin idea in use I would like to see that to give me a better idea of how it would look.

#13

I think I’ve posted a picture in my public gallery but using a MAC I have know Idea where it ended up ( I Just don’t post pictures very often)

#14

Vincent,

This is how I did the last set of bridges that I put in, not exactly “cotter pins” but similar idea.

As built, using brass welding/brazing rod, copper wire and a little solder.

As installed

What you want it to look like or represent will determine what you use for the most part, in other words; scale, semi-scale, ornate or just functional.

Good luck, that’s a nice looking bridge.

Rick

#15

Phil Anastasia said:

I think I’ve posted a picture in my public gallery but using a MAC I have know Idea where it ended up ( I Just don’t post pictures very often)

With your profile set to private I can’t see anything.

#16

Rick Marty said:

Vincent,

This is how I did the last set of bridges that I put in, not exactly “cotter pins” but similar idea.

As built, using brass welding/brazing rod, copper wire and a little solder.

As installed

What you want it to look like or represent will determine what you use for the most part, in other words; scale, semi-scale, ornate or just functional.

Good luck, that’s a nice looking bridge.

Rick

Rick that looks great!
I think I could even handle doing something like that… I can solder pretty good and I have access to all kinds of wire, I just need to know where to look for the welding/brazing rod… is that something lowe’s would carry?

#17

Vincent,

Lowe’s might but I would look for a local “welding supply store” they will have it for sure. The brass rod should come in 3 foot lengths and they sell it by the pound so it is really inexpensive compared to other sources.

I used 3/32 rod and 22 ga. wire but 1/8th rod and 20 ga wire would work as well I suppose though being a little heavier would be a little more expensive.

I used a block of wood as a height spacer butted against the post as I went to keep every post wire connection the same, it helps to take a wrap around the post with the wire, much easier to solder that way.

If you use this method be sure to do the top wire first :slight_smile:

Good luck and show us the results.

Rick

#18

I get my brass rod from McMaster Carr.

They have all the sizes, in 3’ lengths.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-red-metal-rods/=pmazus

#19

That looks great- (BTW I’ve Changed my profile settings)

#20

Phil Anastasia said:

That looks great- (BTW I’ve Changed my profile settings)

I believe I settled on a plan for a railing, probably won’t get to attempt it until after the holidays. Phil, I didn’t realize you were from MA. I am just a little south down in RI.