Large Scale Central

My yard and

Track and Trestles
#41

Devon I appreciate the whole concept of doing it right, and doing it to last. I am an over-builder, when I am not sitting on my butt. Butt, historically, you have set yourself up as the butt of our jokes. Since that is now your brand identity, we can’t help but continue that theme on other threads.

The comment about moisture getting between the membrane and the plywood had been rattling around in my brain. That should not happen if the membrane (whatever it is) is fully adhered to the plywood.

As for arguing the longevity of plywood, may I remind folks that the sub roof on most homes is plywood. My home is so old that its 1x8s and 1x 10s.

I think you have a solid design, and I understand that you don’t want to mess it up at the finish. But as long as water cannot get to the wood, it should be fine. Indecently, do you have a gasket between the wood and the concrete base?

#42

Pete Lassen said:

when you are looking at rubber membranes, look at the self sealing roll roofing, it has a tar back that heated up glues itself at seams and seals nail penetrations,just like all asphalt shingles have a strip of tar that the sun heats up and glues the ends down and it is sturdy enough to handle whatever ballast you put on top of it for trackwork. My patio roof is rolled roofing , with ballast looking granules, all you would have is a couple of black stripes where you seal the overlap.

I agree think this trough and do it once, it will last a long time. As far as the 2x4 s that are holding the top up 5’ long should not sag, if you are worriead about that add another one like every other space to help carry the load.

Did you miss the entire part where Dennis talked me into metal. . .lol(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#43

David Maynard said: Indecently, do you have a gasket between the wood and the concrete base?

Nope.

#44

David Maynard said:

I think you have a solid design, and I understand that you don’t want to mess it up at the finish. But as long as water cannot get to the wood, it should be fine. Indecently, do you have a gasket between the wood and the concrete base?

Well I wasn’t going to argue the plywood point and longevity. My entire house is made from plywood; sub floor, sheeting, and roof. The floor is untreated into an open crawl space. It kept dry but exposed to atmosphere. My roof is untreated on the bottom, kept dry and exposed to atmosphere. Siding is painted in the exposed surface. My house was built in 74. None of my wood is rotten except where I have let moisture get to it. I took my roof down to the plywood 5 years ago. We had to replace one sheet of plywood because it was soft from an old leak where the wood stove went through. I will argue that plywood, kept dry will last a long long time. But avoiding plywood where feasible isn’t a bad plan either and since Dennis sent me in another direction it made it a mute point.

Now as for the gasket and the concrete. No I didn’t, and its not to late. I did make the bottom of the framing out of pressure treated lumber and have kept the siding off the cement and will keep the trim of of it as well my a little bit. But a gasket isn’t a bad idea. Back to our rubber. I can still easily lift it and get rubber under it and fold it up and then put the trim on it. This would help keep the pressure treat wood dry and keep water from coming in. I hadn’t thought about that. I figured I might silicone it but figured I would have to keep stuff up off the cement. But a gasket is a great idea and still can me done. Even some rubber foam weather striping would work.

#45

Ace Hardware!

#46

but… Sean!

he is not building a hut for the pink panter!

#47

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Ace Hardware!

Yeah good plan

#48

Waite A minute!

I know why he hasn’t built anything yet!

Shawn send him the Pink Hat!