Nah. That’s “social media” carp…like “reputation”. I remember when some moron called me a “dinosaur”…so I continue to use that as an avatar.
Give no warnings, take no prisoners.
TOC
Rooster, no offense, how did you come to the conclusion I did not quote Wendell correctly? Here is the OP’s first post in it’s entirity… I have highlighted the ONE SENTENCE that asks a question, and it is CLEARLY the sentence I quoted. Wendell is asking if there is an advantage.
Wendell Hanks said:
From Jerry’s excellent website:
"He (Jerry Barnes) finds the sliding skates and power pickups on the wheels pickup the power from the rails very well and constant cleaning of the track is not needed, unless he has run a live steam engine!"
In Jerry’s excellent website, he references the electrical pickup qualities of his MTH locos not requiring “constant cleaning of the track is not needed.”
He may be on to a comparison that has not been done nor discussed prior: MTH’s comparative advantage under track power vs. the other brand names.
If there is a definitive difference, I am interested as the Palm Desert, Calif., Living Desert layout favors brands other than MTH only because of size.
Your experience?
He was upside down when he read it, Greg. Just look at his name…
TOC
Greg, I don’t know how to ask this without sounding like I’m taking you to task–that’s not my intention at all. I’m genuinely interested in learning where I can get a DCC system that will give me 20 volts to the track at 10 amps for $350. (I did mention the cost of the TIU in my posts, so I am aware of it.) Your venerable and oft-recommended NCE 10-amp system starts at $500 or so. MRC’s Prodigy Elite 10-amp system can be had for a bit under $400, but it’s capped at 15 volts. That’d be fine for narrow gauge folks like me, but not guys who run modern diesels like those MTH makes. Digitrax offers 20 volts at 8 amps (pretty close) for around the same price as the MRC. NCE makes the PowerCab ($150) but while it can be paired with the “smart booster” to bring it up to 5 amps (an additional $200), it’s still capped at 14 volts. It meets the price requirement ($350) but falls short of the 10-amp, 20-volt requirement. To my knowledge, there is not a 10-amp version of NCE’s “smart booster,” at least none that shows up on NCE’s web site.
I’ve heard of MERG, but I’m not overly familiar with them. Their **web site **doesn’t appear to show anything built-up and ready to go. That I saw, they just had schematics, and a limited number of kits available for their more popular designs (alas, not the booster). That may be an option for a low-cost approach for the Do-It-Yoursel modeler, but that’s not really “plug-and-play” for the average Joe. I looked over your web site for references to low-cost approaches, but I didn’t see anything. I found your pages about your NCE 10-amp system and your new Zimo system, but that was it.
So, while it might sound to you like I’m saying “prove it,” that’s not where I’m coming from. Both you and I know cost is a big factor of getting into DCC. A full-featured, 10-amp, 20-volt system for $350 is something I think could really help folks get into DCC on a budget. I’d certainly love to learn more about it.
Later,
K
Of course, the good thing is, for outdoors, to avoid dcc and dcs and anything track powered altogether. Geez…you can run anywhere…even your radio/battery rig on a dcc pike, or a dcs pike, or one with wooden rails.
No buying all the TIU/s, booster districts, wheel wipers, skates, super caps…stand alone.
I can honestly tell you none of my dcc or dcs decoders ever blew up…because I refuse to OWN them!
Well, yea. But since the P&CS is run on the cheep, its run with analog DC track power. So I haven’t blown up a decoder neither.
Locked because its turned into a pissing match. Want to talk DCC/etc like adults, open another thread.