Pulled the masking tape and suprise 
Two layers of paint pulled off with it 
Must be a dark cloud hanging over the area 
Ralph
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/RSTOCK050Med.jpg)
Well ain’t that a kick in the a$$…might be able to touch it up with a brush.
That’s atreal shame after all that work. I would suggest wiping those areas with alcohol, then GENTLY sanding with the finest sandpaper you can find, and then wiping with alcohol again. You should be able to feather those *&%# spots in with several very, very light coats. I have had success with this on cars that I have removed lettering, and oops, removed the base color, too. Good luck.
Looks like it’s going to be a “do over”. I tried to touch it up and the paint just blistered on the Bachmann silver. The problem isn’t the Rust O Leum topcoat over Krylon. The problem is the Bachmann silver. The tender is painted with the same two paints and I didn’t have any of the problems I’ve had with the boiler. Ralph
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/RSTOCK054Med.jpg)
Ralph Berg said:
Pulled the masking tape and suprise(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/RSTOCK050Med.jpg)
I feel your pain…either way looks good …just weather it and blend in the lifted spots?
Aww man, not again! 
Forrest Scott Wood said:Yep, I think I better set this one aside for a bit before I stomp the sh*t out of it and crush it ;) Ralph
Aww man, not again! :(
Major bummer.
Are you using regular masking tape? Or modeler’s tape?
Bruce,
I use the blue 3M tape.
The paint pulling off with the tape doesn’t bother me too much. Ordinarily, not too big of a deal to fix.
It is the paint “blistering” that is giving me fits. First on the original shoot, and then again when I tried to touch it up.
Ralph
That’s a real bummer, Ralph. It’s very frustrating when you get to that point and paint blisters or other nasty things happen.
The train looks fantastic. As Jon shared, you do a super job of color matching. 
Stan Cedarleaf said:
That's a real bummer, Ralph. It's very frustrating when you get to that point and paint blisters or other nasty things happen.The train looks fantastic. As Jon shared, you do a super job of color matching.
Thanks, Stan.
The story gets worse. I sanded it down and started over. Used a special plastic primer by Dupli-Color. The primer is clear and everything looked fine after shooting the primer.
Decided to play it safe and use Dupli-Color for the top coat. The paint blistered in the same places. And all the color and shine bled from the topcoat as it dried. It’s supposed to be black metallic. Instead it’s various shades of dull gray, with blisters. Never seen anything like it.
I was going to leave it as is, as I’m tired of fooling with it. But it pisses me off every time I look at it. So I’ll probably sand it down and start over, again.
Ralph
Ralph Berg said:Golly Ralph, sounds like it's getting time to call in an exorcist, the thing has gotta be possessed.
Decided to play it safe and use Dupli-Color for the top coat. The paint blistered in the same places. And all the color and shine bled from the topcoat as it dried. It's supposed to be black metallic. Instead it's various shades of dull gray, with blisters. Never seen anything like it.
that’s really weird–I can’t understand why that would happen, unless there’s some off-gassing from the Bachmann paint, which seems impossible. I’ve followed Kevin Strong’s advice and used “SuperClean” degreaser to remove paint. It’s purple and comes in big jugs. It does no harm to plastic but takes the paint off. Sometimes I’ve had to leave the parts to soak in it over night, but it works
Ralph, been following this from the start. Wish I knew what to tell you. I had the same happen as I repainted the observation end of my Aristo passenger set. I had to repaint 5 times as the Krylon paint would leave little circles of bare in the finish. I tried washing, sanding, alcohol bath, and a rustoleum base. Each time it got a little better but still wasn’t right. Last thing was a wash with a toothbrush and dawm dish soap with a good rinse.
Aristo silver was the original color of the car and I believe it was more perserverance than what I used that finally won through. Whatever the companies use for the silver finish must leave a residue that needs a strong or repeated removal regimen.Good luck and hang in there it will get there.
Five times. Wooo Hooo. Only two more times to go!
Ralph
Gee Ralph, this is a bummer. I’m thinking it might be something in the plastic, but then I wonder how the Bachman paint went on OK at the factory. I’d try Dave’s suggestion of Dawn detergent and a scrub brush after getting it sanded down to the plastic again, but that’s just a guess.
If all else fails, you could always dip the whole thing in some liquid electrical tape - that would give you a unique surface
Or maybe this one is destined to be that wreck that went of a bridge !
I think it is the sealer Bachmann uses for UV and weather protection or the paint. This is how the boiler jacket should look. And how it did look when the paint was wet. Buddy L.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/BuddyL134Medium.jpg)
Instead I got this. Nice if I wanted it weathered. But I don’t and don’t want to weather the cab, smoke box and tender to match. This time I’m going to take it down to the plastic. If that don’t work I’m going to tape some Estes rockets to it and send it into space
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/PVRRAnnie052Med.jpg)
Ralph Berg said:We will want pictures!
If that don't work I'm going to tape some Estes rockets to it and send it into space :D
hmmm… How about try buffing out that paint, first? To see if it can be MADE to shine?
I sure do think that looks good, well kept but slightly weathered. Don’t beat up on yourself so bad. There is a lot of us that would like to do that good of work.