What’s a good source for metal blackeners? Do different types of metal require different chemicals to blacken them?
“Blacken It” at your hobby shop will darken most pot metals (such as Ozark Mini’s). It takes the shine off of Raymond wheels, and leaves them a nice dull patina.
Yes, different metals need different oxidisers. Brass and bronze turn a dark brown with some darkeners. You can also patina (greenish) copper, brass and bronze with another type. I have about five bottles of different kinds of chemicals for various metals. These were left over when the foundry I worked for closed. I just grabbed them up on my way out the door.
But for modelers use, try Blacken It.
There are some pics here: http://www.kitkraft.biz/catalog/Blackenit-p-2862.html
of what “blacken it” does to some metals.
A homemade concoction that you could try. I haven’t tried it yet, but there’s a first time for everything:
“Use clear ammonia (household strength) and copper carbonate. Copper carbonate is used in pottery glazes, and is available from large ceramics suppliers. It’s a greenish powder that is insoluble in water, but dissolves readily in ammonia, turning the solution a striking royal blue. A teaspoon in 8 ounces of ammonia gives a saturated solution.”
jb
Ray,
Check out your local gunsmith, too. They usually have some “nifty ointments”. 
Hi,
I just image Mr. Mueller walking over to the gunsmith with his new brass RhB loco under his arm to get it blackened. They´d call the next hospital or try a round of their latest buckshot.
In most cases, the shops where you bought your metal, will have a solution for you, to get it blackened.
For pewter/whitemetal use the cheap stuff they sell at Tiffany glass Hobby shops tp blacken the metal seems.
Most German live steam modell makers, use a acid based solution where they cook the brass in for a few minutes, which makes it deep black.
For iron and strell ask at the hardware shop for stains. Or do it like my grandmother tought me. Heat the metal till it glows and dipp it in some old oil from your car. Makes a lovely black surface.
If everything else fails, try the Modern Options products:
http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/sid/b61147218240eb4b69ab3b085d0b2f23/cl/alist/cnid/PMD/tpl/-/lang/1
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
We have a model tools company here in Olde Englande that sells , along with solders for all temperatures , and the fluxes to go with them , a collection of bespoke blackening agents .
The company is called Carrs , and I have used their products successfully for some time .
Try putting Carrs UK in your search engine .
Mike
PS , these chemicals for metal tinting–not necessarily blackening only --are used at room temperature , no need of heating at all . Most gun stuff has to be heated–nothing wrong with that , unless you have to blacken something that may fall apart when heated sufficiently for the blacking to work .
Ray Dunakin said:Ray,
What's a good source for metal blackeners? Do different types of metal require different chemicals to blacken them?
Humorous and other comments notwithstanding, what you’ll find at your local gunsmith is most likely this product line http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/ Or something from their competition.
They provide the “good stuff” in hobby through major production quantities, complete with “whatever it takes” in way of accessories.
BTW at the gunsmith shop they also know how to do small touch-ups which are hard to tell from the original finish and since they don’t consider model railroaders as competition, they’ll probably share a trick or two - at least they do here in town. 
It is always a pleasure to find out how interested people are in other applications for a product they use on a daily basis. Even more so when they see the results from that same material next time one shows up with a sample. Works for me in all kinds of situations - best when they then say “Hmmmmm you know we also sell “this” product… I wonder if you could use that??”
I learn something new every day!
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:Hi,
BTW at the gunsmith shop they also know how to do small touch-ups which are hard to tell from the original finish and since they don't consider model railroaders as competition, they'll probably share a trick or two - at least they do here in town. ;) :)
Could you please show us an example of LS model building or touch ups from your local gunsmith.
Did they fill it with lead bullets to increase the weight, or did they actually applied any of their metal potions on one of your LS metal RhB locos or waggons?
Over here the gunshops think model railroaders are a competition. More people buy locos then machine guns, rifles or pistols. Many people drop dead laughing when they see the model interpretation of the real thing from some makers or modellers.
I would to like something new every day. Hope this is the right forum.
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
I’ve got some of that Birchwood Casey stuff around somewhere from building a flintlock years ago. Wonder how it works on aluminum?
Ken Brunt said:Ken,
I've got some of that Birchwood Casey stuff around somewhere from building a flintlock years ago. Wonder how it works on aluminum?
That could be tricky, unless it’s the right kind.
But if you don’t mind red instead of black, give it a try.
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:
Ken,That could be tricky, unless it’s the right kind.
But if you don’t mind red instead of black, give it a try.
Hi,
Incredible wise words from the fellow with the Large Scale train gun shop in town. Another chance to learn something new today.
When I was a bit younger and still felt immortal I build a few of these blackpowder shotguns from kits. In Germany you even need a blackpowder licenze to blast them off. I am sure, there were no aluminium parts in those kits.
I just asked at a garage in the neighbourhood which fix these foreign aluminium sports cars, if they ever heard of a chemical way to blacken the material. They telephoned a few firms and nobody knew anything about it. They said, they use a zink based primer before they spray the colours on.
So they too now wait for Mr. Mueller advise for the right kind of stuff, he mentioned in this thread.
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
Zirner, your constant picking at HJ is REALLY getting old. :mad:
Warren
Hans-Joerg Mueller said:Ken Brunt said:Ken,
I've got some of that Birchwood Casey stuff around somewhere from building a flintlock years ago. Wonder how it works on aluminum?That could be tricky, unless it’s the right kind.
But if you don’t mind red instead of black, give it a try.
Think I’ll give it a try on an old piece of aluminum rail. It was the gun blueing kind. I’ll let ya know how it works…
Ken,
BirchwoodCasey has an alu blackener
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/blueing_index.asp?categoryID=1&subcat=5
Half way down the page item# 15125 -PAB ALUMINUM BLACK Metal Finish - 3 oz
For the hobbiest with “large requirements” there are the 1 gal containers.
Warren,
Don’t worry, just ignore him.
PS. As they say in German “Those who can read have a clear advantage”
Warren Mumpower said:
Zirner, your constant picking at HJ is REALLY getting old. :mad:Warren
Mumpower:
I expect a grown up man to proof what he says. I do not consider a straight question as picking on somebody. Do you?
If somebody gives the impression here , he had his LS model trains fixed up at a gunshop, I would like to see it.
Any forum in this world can only be as good as the people contributing to it. But I do not trust anybody, who writes thousands of remarks in the fori around this world, without ever having shown a single piece of finished IIm modelling. Maybe that is called virtual modelling, but I believe in the real thing.
I have a sincere interest to learn more about blackening various metals. I tried a few things myself. Some worked, some did not. So if somebody recommends a product or a technique, the least I can expect, that he tried it or knows what he is talking about. I can read advertising promises of various products myself. In a few languages, if desired.
So Mr. Mumpower. If you can contribute to the theme of this thread, please do so. If you only want to tell me, how to write my postings, simply shut up. Or ask the host of this forum to kick me out, if this is your interest or your way of dealing with a straight question.
And please Mr. Mumpower. Contribute to the modelling section of this forum. There are 24 pages of mainly non train relate stuff in ths forum in the “General section” but only a few, where people talk about the fun they have with playing or modelling with trains. Most of it was published elsewhere before.
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
I’ve used the Birchwood Casey aluminum black with halfway decent results, though I was terribly disappointed with how it worked on my aluminum rail. It turned it black–which was nice–then continued the process to where I had white aluminum oxide powder on the rails-which wasn’t so nice. The aluminum black does work quite well on the brass, so you can buy a gallon of the aluminum black and use it for both metals. Alas, the brass black doesn’t work on aluminum.
Later,
K
Kevin,
Did you rinse it after one minute?
In my “former life” one customer (gear, sprocket, pulley producer) had a setup with fairly large tanks to get the parts blackened. If I remember properly they had several tanks with circulating water to stop the process at the right point.
Hi,
I suppose most makers include intructions with their products. Did they write anything about purchasing several tanks for circulating water?
I am still waiting for Mr. Muellers examples of Gun Shop Large Scale blackeners-modelling. Is it truth or fiction? Who knows? Anybody else wants to know?
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
The problem with chemical blackeners which nobody ever mentions is that they react differently with different hardnesses of the same metal .
Thus the rolled brass ,say of a rail , is harder than cast brass . This results in the cast item blacking more rapidly than drawn or rolled . The same applies to aluminium , made worse by the additives in alu , Dural is harder than alu , Hiduminium is harder than both . The best way to blacken alu is to black anodise it . As this is a bit problematic for most of us , we just have to suck it and see . If you are blackening wheels , you will just have to be patient , or paint them . Chemical blacking is not half as good as it is cracked up to be , I find it useful , but would never depend on it .
The blacking on alu car wheels is usually anodised . Remember that alu wheels on your models are usually cut from billets of drawn alu ,so it is hard and resistant to chemical etching .
Mike
Mike,
Anodizing is not that expensive, even for small batches. In my “former life” I’ve produced quite a few measuring fixtures, always had them anodized because that looks much better than even nicely brushed alu.
Zirner said:
Hi,I suppose most makers include intructions with their products. Did they write anything about purchasing several tanks for circulating water?
I am still waiting for Mr. Muellers examples of Gun Shop Large Scale blackeners-modelling. Is it truth or fiction? Who knows? Anybody else wants to know?
Have Fun
Juergen Zirner
[b]BTW at the gunsmith shop they also know how to do small touch-ups which are hard to tell from the original finish and since they don’t consider model railroaders as competition, they’ll probably share a trick or two - at least they do here in town.
It is always a pleasure to find out how interested people are in other applications for a product they use on a daily basis. Even more so when they see the results from that same material next time one shows up with a sample. Works for me in all kinds of situations - best when they then say “Hmmmmm you know we also sell “this” product… I wonder if you could use that??”
I learn something new every day! [/b]