Large Scale Central

MBTA 1011 (F40PH)

Modeling Motive Power
#21

Okay! The epoxy is dry, the low spots were filled, surfaces were sanded smooth,and the primer was applied!

What followed?..mixed results.

I think the epoxy is the way to go for larger flat surfaces. Unfortunately, (on my 1st attempt) I applied it all over. I seem to have lost the crisp edges of the rivot strips on the car body. In the future, I would only use epoxy on details like the nose and roof. The plastic filler is a better option for the car body because it can be easily sanded or filed.

Stay tuned! Back to the sanding booth tonight…

#22

I was afraid of that. So many times reading this thread I thought to myself, that is way too much work, and what will happen to the file details, but I refrained from comment.

I’ve seen 3d printing in high resolution (a couple of our customers have given us their prototype consumer electronics enclosures) and they are pretty much ready for painting right out of the machine. I know it can be done,.

I wonder if that level of resolution is just beyond the capabilities of the machine used here. I’m also in Z scale, and we get a number of things in that scale from shapeways, and clearly the resolution is higher.

I appreciate all of you out there “breaking ground”, but looks like I’ll be staying on the sidelines a bit longer.

Greg

#23

Haha thanks, Greg? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

I’m actually not deterred by these results. The technology is good and Mark’s CAD skills show through nicely. What you see in the pictures is the result of a first-timer in model finishing. A good percentage of this engine is coming through smooth and of good quality. Since its a sandable primer, I can go back and sand and file out the rough spots.

#24

Greg, part of the problem is as you surmise, the resolution of the printing process, however, there also remains the tradeoff between print quality and time-to-print. At super high resolutions, teh print time for something as large as one of our models, the printer’s warranty would expire before the first part came out.

#25

Also note, this is a very sturdy model.  This engine is going to be a runner...not a mantel piece.  Whatever it lacks in finer details will masked by high speed, bright lights, and a few resin details!

#26

Greg Elmassian said:

I was afraid of that. So many times reading this thread I thought to myself, that is way too much work, and what will happen to the file details, but I refrained from comment.

I’ve seen 3d printing in high resolution (a couple of our customers have given us their prototype consumer electronics enclosures) and they are pretty much ready for painting right out of the machine. I know it can be done,.

I wonder if that level of resolution is just beyond the capabilities of the machine used here. I’m also in Z scale, and we get a number of things in that scale from shapeways, and clearly the resolution is higher.

I appreciate all of you out there “breaking ground”, but looks like I’ll be staying on the sidelines a bit longer.

Greg

Cost is the biggest factor for quality printing, I could upload this project to Shapeways but I doubt it would sell in 1/29th. Check out the price for the cab only on a ALCo Century - https://www.shapeways.com/model/upload-and-buy/2509345

#27

Mark, coming up 404.

#28

$200! but it is in nylon. Why nylon?

http://www.shapeways.com/product/77ZR4SGGX/1-29-alco-century-cab

#29

There is also a process called vapor smoothing, check it out, do a search on youtube. It would save you a lot of time.

#30

Hi Nico,

I’ve looked into the vapor smoothing method, but I’m afraid it would provide silimar edge softening as the epoxy created. I’m also not comfortable with the idea of boiling acetone…and the assorted risks associatiated therein. Thanks for the suggestion though.

As an update:

I made a simple brass tool last night for re-profiling the square edges on the model. Within a half hour or so I had it looking pretty sharp again! In the future I will also use this tool to smooth out body filler from the square edges. While it works on the epoxy, the body filler is more responsive to shaping. Hopefully tonight I can wrap up the body work and apply the major details.

#31

Rockwall Canyon Jeff said:

Hi Nico,

I’ve looked into the vapor smoothing method, but I’m afraid it would provide silimar edge softening as the epoxy created. I’m also not comfortable with the idea of boiling acetone…and the assorted risks associatiated therein. Thanks for the suggestion though.

As an update:

I made a simple brass tool last night for re-profiling the square edges on the model. Within a half hour or so I had it looking pretty sharp again! In the future I will also use this tool to smooth out body filler from the square edges. While it works on the epoxy, the body filler is more responsive to shaping. Hopefully tonight I can wrap up the body work and apply the major details.

Great news!!!

Pics are being anticipated! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

#32

$115 is the cheapest Shapeways can do that cab

For comparison i sell the entire F40ph kit for $150 on my website, yeah the quality of my FDM printer is nowhere near SLA printers, but neither is the price.

Yes there is some work involved with finishing the surface, however the starting point for the model vs price should be affordable

#33

Yep, it’s the classic tradeoff of cost vs. time spent. There is no free lunch!

Greg

#34

Any progress Jeff??

Here’s a video of Ken Millers F40 and Bombardier cars for inspiration

LOL I give up

https://youtu.be/HkSRoEmPDXw

#35

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the cool link!..Ken did a great job getting his engine painted and detailed!

I do a little bit on mine every now and then, but I really need to sit down and get this finished before the season is over!

One concern im having is the paint scheme…the main color is silver…and silver isn’t very forgiving. So, this could actually end up being painted in rockwall canyon green instead.

I’ll keep the “heritage” number the same. I suppose RCRR Green actually could open up a few more storylines for its use: Is it a second hand commuter rail loco now hauling de-motored RDCs on excursions or a fledgling commuter rail system in a small municipality?..or is it completely repurposed and now hauls mostly freight?

#36

Greg Elmassian said:

I was afraid of that.

I appreciate all of you out there “breaking ground”, but looks like I’ll be staying on the sidelines a bit longer.

Greg

Wow, I for one am shocked.

#37

So I’m planning to paint a pair of new ALCO FAs this Columbus Day weekend…if all goes well the F40PH will join them!

One of the last details I’m trying to work out on the EMD are the side-grills or vent screens. In past projects I’ve used actual window screen. While it looks convincing, they tend to be rather delicate, and can be pushed in when moving the locomotive. Does anyone have any alternative ideas for this problem?

#38

http://www.precisionscaleco.com/

click on misc and then screen

#39

1011 has been stored on the deadline in Billerica since mid-June.

#40

Thanks Joe! Those will be perfect.

Bob, sadly it seems to be out of reach for visiting…but hopefully that means it won’t be destroyed (yet) in case someone finds a use for it.

The EMD carbody has smoothed out nicely, and as such, I’ve decided to keep the MBTA livery afterall. I’ve found the purple color to be rather troublesome match, so I will be using thin vinyl for the purple and yellow striping as used on my RDC cars. Speaking of the RDC cars, they are being re-trucked to accept 35mm dia ball bearing wheels in sprung journals to improve tracking and rocking.