Large Scale Central

Making Turnout Blades and Frogs

Hi

Can anyone who is making their own turnouts please tell me how they make turnout blades and frogs from say code 200/250 large scale rail?

Are you grinding the rail down on a grinding wheel because hand filing seems impossible?

Sorry if I’ve missed previous posts on this topic.

Thanks Daryl

A lot depends on your material
But when building switches I rough shape with a 1 inch power sanding belt machine
then finish with a hand file. Not super fast but works well.
I use all aluminum rail though.

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I have done the same as Rick. Rough shape with a belt sander and then final smooth by hand.

I typically just build frogs instead of points ( that’s what the turnout blade are called). I can get point castings from Llagas Creek that look good but I’m guessing they might be hard to get down under.

I’ve done frogs in aluminum and nickel silver and they are roughly the same amount of work. Nickel silver or brass is nice because you can silver solder them. Aluminum you can just use JB Weld.

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Hi Craig

I’m guessing if you were to use a nasty big file you could file away nickel silver fairly quickly.

Problem for me is a very weak Australian dollar so add 25-25% to every purchase.

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Hi Darryl,

I’ll just rinse & repeat what Rick and Craig said - belt sander for shaping, hand file to finish, I use silver solder for the frogs.

I graduated from a hand held belt sander to a bench job from Bunnings a few years ago which offered a bit more control.

Here’s a couple of links to previous builds.

Cheers
Neil

This is the files that I’m talking about. “Bastard File”. You can remove a lot in a few swipes. Then clean up with a small needle file.
https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-verizon-us-rvc3&sca_esv=5c252930a19338f9&sxsrf=ADLYWILs3SbWVnCy4aV2DnEECGuYxd70Cw:1736313822621&q=bastard+file&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0DncICEeRv1qLsbxwUR3UCsla4T6TAaP2I_DjQy4IkNUwJbBq0-OOVw24Qu5EVeYBZ1CMUmVkSJiRpptk1Pa9Vr0tQTy8cK3fBys2JmqchXTxD3sn5rh_apDZvLmUJ12vsZGmQ69lNvy0vTbEnyMJoiBufsRHMmNArqoYT2A6pfgARCDmKcTWEQTKDT6u0R5vOVjdAebLcQvDDI16RFDeFGfExNuavwtfl7XvhuoDYSYrPdxtU&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=2ahUKEwj1oPaEseWKAxXtJDQIHdP1HjUQtKgLegQIEhAB&biw=448&bih=828&dpr=2.25

Hi Neil

Thanks so much for your experience and links.

I gather that you’re in Australia if you’re shopping at Bunnings.

I’m in Box Hill in Melbourne.

Daryl

Hi Neil

Do you build your curved turnouts with curved frogs?

Daryl

Keep in mind as you build these to keep the points insulated if you are using track power.

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Hi David

I’m thinking battery might be the go.

Daryl

Hi Daryl,

I’m across the ditch in NZ, we’ve got them too. :grin:

Frogs are always straight on real turnouts so I did the same. I stopped curving the rail 50 - 60 mm before the frog, and left the tails (?) straight for another 100mm.

All numbers are ‘ish’ - it was all done by eye and careful guesstimation.

Cheers
N

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Yes, I use a big Bastard to file the points and frog. Aluminum rail is easier, of course. I clamp the rail in the vice and file away.

OldGR11 filing points

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Hi Neil.

Love NZ. Been over the ditch a few times mainly skiing out of Queenstown.

Now planning a northern tip to southern tip camper van trip we were supposed to do then Covid hit.

Thanks again for the info.

Daryl

Thanks Peter.

Commercial turnouts are so expensive in large scale.

This appears to be the way to save lots of money.

Thanks for the photo.

Daryl

Neil

I forgot to ask, but how do you bend the rail for the frog?

Do you bend it in a vice until it looks right or do you make a cut in the side then bend?

Thanks Daryl

I use 2 separate pieces, and cut the ends at the angle using a small hacksaw. [I have a pic of that too!]

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Hi Peter

Could please post the photo.

Daryl

Hi Daryl,

I use a railbender for the curves - stick it in the vise upside down and run the rail back and forth till it roughtly matches a paper template. I put sharpie marks on the rail for the straight sections - that’s how the frog (mostly) stays straight.

Cheers
N

Craig and Pete both said: “file” and have been reported to the moderator!

SAFETY NOTE

Please do not use a grinding wheel on non-ferrous metals. Use a belt sander or file as stated. Soft metal can embed in the grinding wheel. This might cause the grinding wheel to fracture. When this happens the wheel flies apart at speed. Grinding wheel for steel only.

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