Set up the grist mill today and started to put in the stream.
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Freight house. For some reason the photographer didnt take any build pictures. The sides are plastic from Ozark miniatures that Marie painted. Far easier and faster then using real stone and cement.
Working on a couple smaller houses. Won some sheet copper at a local auction for roofing, it’s about two thousands thicker then aluminum cans but I can still corrugate it.
Mark are you going to keep the copper shiny or let it oxidise to a green patina ?
I think depending on the building, I will do one of each and see how I like it.
This is one of the houses with the copper roof. I heated the copper to try and get it to change colors, after I did the roof I did some research and apparently I am getting the copper to hot and its going past the colors I am looking for. Will be trying again.
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Try Muriatic acid, it will give you some interesting coloring.
Edit for pictures.
Here are a couple of screen shots of a Mansard I did on a building in Redding, CA some 50 years ago. Not good pictures but it gives you the idea.
I know that just about everything on the internet tells you that copper will have no reaction with Muriatic acid but that is just another internet legend.
Muriatic acid, I will give that a shot, I think my local hardware store has some if not they can order it. Thnaks
Try a swimming pool supply, probably cheaper, but the hardware store may be able to get it in less than a gallon size.
Edit to add; Be very careful about breathing the fumes of the acid, not so much the acid/copper combination but just the acid itself.
Way back in the day, I used a solution of diluted Muriatic acid to clean the innards of the Penberthy 1/2inch water injectors for the Dry Gulch RR locomotive. The acid would brighten those bronze or brass parts after they had been dulled and scaled by the limestone in the local water. I could usually pull the innards, dip them in the acid, rinse them, reinstall them, and have the injector working in ten minutes or less. Care had to be taken to avoid contact with the acid. The solution we used was pretty powerful stuff. I’m not sure whether it will weather the copper or brighten it. Probably best to do a trial on a small sample. Your results may vary.
Just saying, David Meashey
Mark,
Your build has inspired me to look for some copper as some of my shingles are having issues already. You might have some household products around the house you can try.
My new best friend, ChatGPT, had this to offer…
To accelerate the formation of a green patina (copper carbonate) on copper, you can use a few common methods that mimic natural oxidation. Here are the most effective ways:
1. Vinegar and Salt Method (Acetic Acid Reaction)
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Materials: White vinegar, salt, spray bottle.
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Steps:
- Clean the copper with soap and water, then dry.
- Mix equal parts white vinegar and salt in a spray bottle.
- Spray the copper thoroughly and let it sit in a humid environment.
- Repeat spraying periodically. The patina should develop within a few days.
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Tips:
- Placing the copper in a plastic container with a damp cloth can increase humidity.
- For a stronger effect, heat the copper slightly before spraying.
2. Ammonia Fumes Method (Ammonium Chloride Reaction)
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Materials: Ammonia, salt, sealable plastic container.
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Steps:
- Clean the copper piece thoroughly.
- Sprinkle salt on the copper surface.
- Place the copper in a sealable container with a small dish of ammonia (without letting it touch).
- Seal the container and let the fumes react with the copper for several hours to a few days.
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Safety:
- Work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and eye protection.
- Avoid direct contact between ammonia and copper.
3. Natural Patina (Time and Environment)
- Method: Expose copper to outdoor conditions.
- Time: Several months to years.
- Environment: Coastal areas with salty air will speed up the process.
4. Liver of Sulfur (Potassium Sulfide) for a Quick Patina
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Effect: Produces darker, more varied patinas, sometimes with hints of green.
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Steps:
- Dissolve liver of sulfur in warm water.
- Dip the copper or brush the solution on.
- Rinse and dry.
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Caution: The patina may range from brown to black, with occasional green hues.
Final Tips:
- After achieving the desired patina, seal the copper with a clear lacquer or wax to preserve the color.
- Experiment with different ratios and exposure times for varied effects.
Would you like guidance on a specific method or material?
Thanks every body I have some experimenting to do, I will post results here. As far as safety goes I will do it outside wearing appropriate safety gear. Bill if you didn’t live in Australia I would mail you some but shipping is WOW expensive.
Another small house
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This is the RR owners house, plastic sheet stone siding, will be cutting in windows and a door. @Rooster It has dormers you suggested them for the farmers house. I am thinking it will have a standing seam copper roof.
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The town had a hail storm last night and suffered some damage. In real life it was various sizes up to the size of a quarter and scaled to the town that would be the size of a basketball. I was figuring on more damage and glad it was not. Some I will fix some will be scars left from the storm.
Looks very nice. I am trying to scratchbuild buildings myself (too broke to afford a town of PIKO building kits) so these are very inspiring. How did you make the battens?
Thanks in advance.
I make it from 1/4” plywood on my router table route a board move it over on to the board that is attached to the miter route another board and that makes a batten the batten width is determined by spacing of the board on the miter and router bit. Clear as mud? I can make a video next week, we are camping this weekend.
Sorry for the damage, Mark. Best wishes on repairs.
For whatever scars remain, maybe come up with a backstory for visiting kids (or kid-like adults). Like, you tried to accurately model a particular meteor shower in 19##, and there were 23 hits on the town’s buildings’ rooves. Find them all and you’ll get a cookie!
What in the hail !
Had to say it…