Large Scale Central

Like Split Jaw but not?

Track and Trestles
#1

Hi all, I’m sure someone here knows the answer to this.

I picked up a handful of what I thought were Split Jaw joiners a while ago from an estate selloff, and today got around to cleaning them up for use. I couldn’t figure out what seemed off with them until I pulled a new one out of a recent package to compare.

These used ones from the estate are like 95% exactly the same in size and profile, with the only real difference being that the screw comes in from the split side, not the body side! The little allen screw even was the same size head for the Split Jaw tool.

Who made these?

Thanks!

#2

Sounds like their over-the-joiner model…

#3

Thomas,

Could it be these? http://trackjoiners.com/ I have bought these on Ebay in the past, and are more cost effective than split jaw, and work equally as well. I almost think they have one size larger screw.

Al P.

#4

AML (http://rldhobbies.com/images/products/detail/G102021B.jpg)

#5

I have split jaw joiners that have the screw coming in from either side depending on the era there were made.

Stan

#6

Daktah John said:

Sounds like their over-the-joiner model…

Hi John, I thought that at first but when placing one side-by-side to a new one, they are 100% identical in height and 95% in inner profile. So it’s not bigger to accommodate over-the-joiner.

#7

Al Pomeroy said:

Thomas,

Could it be these? http://trackjoiners.com/ I have bought these on Ebay in the past, and are more cost effective than split jaw, and work equally as well. I almost think they have one size larger screw.

Hi Al, I actually do have a pile of Uncle Herm’s, they do not split in the middle of one side, and they use a different size allen head. I like them but did find the Split Jaw type more convenient since I can take a piece of track out without as much trouble.

#8

Richard Beverly said:

AML

Hi Richard, those look right, but I looked at americanmainline.com and they only list over-joiner clamps. However a quick check at RLD shows that Robbie sells over-rail style, which is I think where you got that picture. You might be right?

#9

Stan Ames said:

I have split jaw joiners that have the screw coming in from either side depending on the era there were made.

Hi Stan, would you happened to have noticed if both of your era Split Jaws use the exact same allen screw? Upon closer inspection, while the head fits the same size tool, the body/shank is larger on the older joiner in question, so it’s a hair too big to thread into a new body.

I know this is minor stuff, not life or death, I’m just being curious. Thanks all!

#10

Thomas yes that is the same pic. but not from rld. do you know or can you tell if that is a metric screw?

#11

What Stan said, I have older SJ units where the screws came in through the other side.

The head of the screw might have been a bit different, but the thread is the same.

These are definitely SJ.

Greg

#12

Greg his last post he says that they will not thread together, so it is a different thread. So i question if they definitely SJ.

#13

I have some (IIRC) 3-piece Split Jaws (won 10 in a raffle) and they thread from the two “half pieces” into the “whole piece.” They look just like the picture of the AML, except that the screws are more centered on each piece and sit flush when tight, rather sticking past the “whole piece” making them a bit less obtrusive.

I also have an insulated joiner (some sort of plastic), except that it is two “whole pieces,” ~10-15% smaller, the Allen heads are smaller, the threads are smaller, and instead of “dove tailing,” the the slots form an inverted “T.” I don’t know the mfg.

#14

I’ve never seen a knockoff of SJ that has the screws on the other side.

I do have several early sets of SJ where the screws ARE on the other side.

You might double check the threads, but maybe there were early ones

Todd, those inverted T slots are probably Hillman…

Greg

#15

Yes, I would say the inverted T type are Hillman. Since my Hillmans are slowly starting to fail on me, I am converting to Split Jaw. I never heard of the other ones, Uncle Herm’s. Its nice to know that there are other options out there.

#16

What Stan said about the era they were made is correct. I still have a few of the older ones where the screw head is on the split side.

#17

Hillman made a Climax as well

Good informative thread guys!

#18

Shut up Rooster. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#19

Ok

#20

Back in 1997-98 my club started using Hillman joiners but they were problematic on a modular layout. I found Split Jaws bought some, they worked great. It took me a month, five dealers and $2500 to purchase 1,000 Split Jaws.
I noticed a change in the cut for the rail grip in some of the orders that I received, so mixing up the jaws wasn’t a good idea. As time went on, the hex in the stainless steel screw heads started to round out and I bought several boxes of replacement SS screws.
After chatting with the Split Jaw guy at York, he decided to make some changes, and changed to hardened steel screws and turned the threads around to the loose jaw. As the joiner was too high to slide under the rails, he shortened them.
I’ve bought several more boxes of the black steel screws and will eventually replace all the SS screws.
Most of the club members have gotten the knack of dealing with the Split Jaws and we still use them.
Back then, we used Aristo track and LGB 1600 series turnouts, now we use LGB track and Aristo 10’ diameter and Aristo #6 turnouts. We still use a mix of LGB rail joiners and Split Jaws and eventually will go to all Split Jaws.
So we have a mix of every Split Jaw joiner type except over the joiner type which we never used.
As time has passed, several other manufacturers have come out with copycat versions of the Split Jaws, but we are sticking with the real Split Jaw.