Large Scale Central

Leeds Hill RR Equipment

Modeling
#1

Hi friends!
I’ve decided to start a master build thread for the LHRR on here, as I am working on a number of cars at the moment. Here’s where I’m at now…

I spent a ton of time today painting and priming different rolling stock. I worked on my tanker, 25 tonner, refer, ex-CSX box car, and Henrietta. I also detailed Toby a bit more.

I have a bit of a problem with Henrietta. I didn’t sand down the factory finish enough so the primer didn’t stick very well. Does anyone think it will be OK if I give it a few more coats, or do I need to sand it down and start again?

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#2

If you are not satisfied with it now, I would recommend starting over. It would be a shame to see you get this done the way you want it only to have your work peel off.

Eric

#3

A quick Henrietta update!
I’ve actually gotten quite a bit done. After the primer didn’t go on so nicely I sanded the body and tried again. It was better but still not great. I ran with it & painted the final color shortly thereafter, but found some dents and holes I didn’t fill well enough. So, one more step back: refill and let dry.
In the meantime, I’ve gotten all the railing pieces for each end of the coach 3D printed and below you can see a test fit. You can also see the stairs I made (styrene). Here they are simply attached with double-sided tape, which honestly may be my long-term solution…

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This was actually finished before most of the above. I think I took this photo while I was waiting for the color coat to dry. On the frame I pull the buffers and hooks off each end and stripped off their paint. At the same time I stripped the finish off the buffer beams themselves. I cut off the running board from each side of the car, too. Repainted everything and rebuilt. The floors seen on either end are styrene.

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#4

PROJECT COMPLETE!

Not only did I complete my Tandem box car…

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… I also finally completed Henrietta! Overall I’m very happy with how this looks. I could have been more careful filling gaps and sanding the body, but the fact that you cannot tell where the styrene/original plastic seam is makes me very happy. The railings are 3D printed (which took a few tries) and most of the original bits were used. The ends & steps are all custom (styrene), the grab rails and door handles are craft rod. One of the gates even hinges properly, which I am very proud of myself for.

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Oh, by the way, Tandem Bagel Co is where I work. That’s why I made that car. I’m really happy with it, but I wish the water-slide decals weren’t so obvious. Is there a way to fix that? All I’m doing is applying them wet and removing air bubbles.

#5

Trim them as close to the actual decal. Use Solvaset or I believe there is also a Microset, both help settle the decal into the many nooks and crannies.Multiple coats and prick the air bubbles as you go. These soften the decal film. Then coat everything with your favorite clear in mists not heavy sprays. Others will have more methods JMHO YMMV :sunglasses:

#6

Good job, John.
The most successful decals I have done are:

  1. Have a clear gloss on the surface you are putting the decal on
  2. After put a flat coat on
    Learned that from Stan Cedarleaf. Another member from here that I miss dearly.