Is that the usual measurement over the treads? I was suggesting measuring the overall diameter over the flange.
Pete, I should have clarified; but I was measuring hub diameters. Isn’t that what loco specs generally refer to?
But you bet, if we’re talking flange od’s, the LGB drivers will be a lot closer to reality.
Cliff, that was precisely my point. With our oversize flanges, trying to fit scale tread diameter wheels is often difficult, yet correct overall flange OD will look fine and will clear everything underneath the frame.
Thanks Pete!
One more thing, when a proto spec sheet says a driver diameter, that’s to the tread od (vs. hub), correct?
Cliff, I have no idea what you are referring to when you say ‘hub’. The hub is usually thought of as the center of the wheel where it clamps itself on the axle.
I added 2 more arrows to the drawing I extracted. The gold arrow points to what I think of as the hub. The yellow arrow is the diameter as it is normally measured, over the tread of the wheel that runs on the rails. That’s the number usually quoted as “wheel diameter”.
As you can tell, the green arrow over the outside of the (model’s) flange is much larger than actual quoted wheel diameter.
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Pete, I’m confusing us both, I meant to type “vs. flange.” Earlier I was using “hub” for “tread,” so thanks for that correction, and confirmation of tread OD = driver spec dia.
The current backhead design. I modeled in the LGB tricock valve knobs, but they were way big. So these knobs will be brass nails.
I twisted a bit of brass strip for the yankhickey at the lower left (ash pan release, Dev?), and cadded it in to check proportions.
The new tender and backhead parts, which finished printing last night. While at the tender updates (to match the drawing better), I added the lettering on the sides, and made the grab irons removable (bits of brass rod).
Messed with the builder’s plate…
This is small (.48 tall), so I’m not expecting much from the lettering, the small stuff is only .022 high.
A few minutes later… here’s the prints, just out of the vat. Almost legible, but yeah, definitely pushing the printer’s resolution!
I don’t see how I can paint this to look like the cad model, but it was a fun exercise.
I might try to print them at a different orientation tomorrow, might help.
Sputter, sputter, gasp
That is me trying to find the words to describe this wonderful creative modeling
Jer
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Nice work, Cliff. For knobs, I used snaps - they work very well and look good too. You CAN paint them if need be.
Aha! I found a picture:
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Thanks Jerry! I’m pleased that you’re liking this effort.
And Bruce, my knobs are half that size, so no go.
Well, that didn’t sound right at all.
Can’t make kindle work…
A’s!&2???
[next day, back on the computer…]
Thanks for the photo Bruce, and they DO look great. Like I was trying to say, the ones in my rendering are only 1/8" dia though.
That’s what sh ……… never mind 
Yeah, snaps are measured in ‘snap size’, rather than “real” units…I don’t think they have any in “your” size… 
Anyway, if you ever need a larger snap, here’s the translation:
Size 4/0: 3/16" (4.7mm)
Size 3/0: 1/4" (6.35mm)
Size 2/0: .32" (8.12mm)
Size 1/0: .35" (9mm)
Size 1: 3/8" (9.52mm)
Size 2: 7/16" (11mm)
Size 3: 1/2" ( 12.7mm)
Size 4: 5/8" (15.88mm)
Size 10: 3/4" (19mm)
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Looking great. As to painting the builders plate. Thats rough. What about “painting” it with sharpies. Maybe the fine tip ones. I dunno that’s going to be tough
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What I did with my builders plate was to first paint it with Krylon Gold Foil, let it dry and then brush it with black acrylic paint and carefully wipe it off before it dries.
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I think Cliff needs to learn metal etching. Then he can etch the builders plate…
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Thanks for the ideas, guys. Devon, we’re on the same page, I tried a sharpie test this morning, and then ordered some metallic sharpies from Amazon.
Doc, that’s really amazing work. I’m not sure how well my letters will wipe, because they seem rough. But I might as well try.
Roger that Craig, that would be ideal!
Here’s the 2nd run, they seem clearer.
And a shot using a microscope:
Maybe if I lightly sand it, Doc’s wipe-off method will work. We’ll see.
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Cliff,
I was very lucky that Ozark Miniatures had exactly the builders plate I needed. Great luck for me and good luck to you.
Doc
Unless you’re close up, nobody can really read it anyway… 
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Right; there IS that 10 micron rule… 
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