Quote:Ah...details, details. Actually, the open gate clears the steel bridge. I was originally going to build a wooden bridge there, but I figured it would be too tall to step over; hence the steel bridge. Now, the truth is, we seldom use that gate (it's more for looks), so traffic through there is not a problem.
so, how do you get through the gate without tripping on the trestle?
Though, if I had to do it all over again, I’d move the fence out aways…
Looking great, Bruce. You’re making the rest of us look bad!
Bruce,
Great looking setup
I’m picking up a lot of good ideas from all your hard work, along with everyone else input on this thread…Thanks 
Question…??
I’ve done searches on both Lowes & Home Depot…with “0” results for “TUFBoard”…
Is this the product name…or could it be listed a something else ??
I did find something a Lowes called Lattice Cap…that was about 1"x 2" X 8’ long…for $6.95.
Looks like it might work even though it has a U shaped chanel…Seems plenty stong & flexible
Thanks…
CJ, Pretty sure it’s the right name…
I couldn’t find it on their web site, either…just happened to find it while wandering around the store - and glad I did. I WOULD NOT use the Lattice Cap. It’s way too flexible and the channels make it awkward to work with. I tried some and WAS NOT happy with it at all. (Well, I DID like the color!) The TUF Board is much cheaper and stronger.
Thanks Again Bruce.
I’ll keep lookin’…the TUFBoard definatly seems to be the way to go
Thinking about useing a combination of both PT 2Xs & Ladder system…
Definatly Ladder for most of the curved sections
Maybe even 1X6 PT with bisquits for sideings…
Still readin & learning…But we’re going to get something at least temporary on the ground for Halloween & Xmas
I was also looking at the new Ti-lee (sp) railbender…but see you’re useing the flex track…
How well do you like it, & where should i look to find out more on it ??
Thanks…cj
PS…
I might try a couple section of the lattice cap for my overhead trolly in our living room…might work for the corner curves
We have several window boxes, so the spans would be pretty short…less than 8’
I’ll let you know how it works for this application… or don’t work…hahahah
CJ,
I’ll probably use PT when I get over to my yard area. It might also be nice for my elevated track, just to provide a wider base…but then you lose the nice curve effect of the ladder method.
I’m using the AMS flex track. It’s code 250, and so far I’m very pleased with it. It DOES need to be anchored, which is why I’m using the ladder method, but I guess you could use a rail bender on it as well. I haven’t and it’s worked out fine so far. I got mine from Quisenberry station, but I suspect it might be available elsewhere.
The lattice cap will probably make tighter curves than this stuff. I didn’t like it because when I put a screw in the side it distorts the top and I lose a nice level platform. YMMV.
"I’ll probably use PT when I get over to my yard area. It might also be nice for my elevated track, just to provide a wider base…but then you lose the nice curve effect of the ladder method. "
Bruce, couldn’t you continue the ladder method by widening it out beyond two parallel lines? Or I guess by following the laying of the track and tying them together. It seems that you could continue the “the nice curve effect” no matter how many tracks were alongside each other.
Ric,
I think you’re right. Actually, I do believe that Richard Smith uses the ladder method for all his track work - and uses open grids. Hmm…may have to rethink my yard area…plus it will have to hold a turntable. Lots to think about.
I’ve been waiting to finish my loop - had to complete a bridge and trestle. Finally got them stained today. The bridge is built from plans I got from Garden Texture - a Howe deck truss bridge.
A curved trestle using the bent plans from Garden Texture - this is the third trestle from these plans.
For some reason, I put the rail down BEFORE I stained, making staining all that much more difficult. Oh well. Now, I let those dry and I can finally complete the loop.
Now these are in place and leveled. First, a Garden Metal bridge, my curved trestle, the Howe deck bridge and another Garden Metal bridge.
Just clears the oak tree…
Sweet !
WOW Bruce… That is really looking great.
Jon
I think I’m done with most of the supporting track. Still have the yard to do, but got a lot done this weekend. This shows most of the reverse loop with a passing siding and the support that will allow for continuous running. A spur runs behind the mill. (I may eventually move the mill.)
Just another shot of the reverse loop - the track is done, but not yet tested with a train.
My curved trestle, deck bridge, metal bridge and track…as it curves around the oak tree and through the holly. Looks like the azaleas will survive.
I’d love to come up with some treatment for the elevated track on the rest of the reverse loop…but haven’t any ideas yet. I do NOT want to put rocks or dirt up to that level…sounds too much like work! I don’t see a trestle in my future, either.
Bruce,
This morning I got to your pictures in this posting. All of your labor sure looks like it has paid off. It is time to settle back with a frosty and see how all this works. Thanks for sharing.
I got one question, Bruce. What’s your spacing on the blocks in between the 2 plastic rails? I’ve been using about a 12" space. For some reason yours look closer, but that could just be the picture angle. Are the straight sections a differant spacing then the curved sections?
(actually that’s 2 questions…;))
Ric, thanks for the comments. I need to test it with a train…very slowly!
Ken,
It’s 9" center to center for those little blocks. There’s no real reason for that spacing. (Well, there’s always a reason: I had originally planned to build my switches on PT 2x8 - but couldn’t bring home a big piece in my car so I had them cut at Home Depot in sections about 3’ long. I ended up using one of these to build the jig on the first page of this post…and I wanted at least 4 spacers. )
I use the jig to add the spacers to an 8 foot section - whether it’s going to be curved or straight. Now, the space for the posts varies - typically about 18" or so, but no hard and fast reason. Sometimes I hit a rock and move it one way or another. In fact I keep hitting roots or rocks, so my passing siding on the loop isn’t quite as even as I’d like.
Thanx Bruce.
Maybe I’ll keep the 12" space for the straight and use the 9" for the curves. They have a tendancy to want to straighten out a little after it’s taken out of the jig.
Hey Bruce
How well does this support the track at level? How are the adjustments made? Do you have to make sure the posts are perfectly vertical, or is there a way to shim it? Inquiring minds want to know!
Bob, my whole reversing loop is elevated and level. Seems pretty sturdy. I do the initial adjustment with a sledge hammer applied to the vertical post. This gets it close. Then I put a “Smart Tool”
on top and measure for level - or grade. I put a screw on either side of the vertical post when it is at the desired value. For the loop, it was 0%. For my siding, it was about 3%. While pounding the post in, it’s important to try to keep it vertical in the front to back direction - looking at it as if the track is going left to right. The easiest way to do this is to first complete the ladder - that is, make sure that both strips are firmly attached to the spacers. This means that the post will barely fit between them, so it’s held in place as you pound it. Just try to get it vertical in that plane before you start pounding. There is some play in the posts (at least left to right) before they are screwed to the track support I use the level to make sure it’s vertical before I put the screw in. So, I’ve got the level on the post, measuring the vertical; I hold that in place with my right hand while using my right thumb to adjust the track support up or down - watching the Smart Tool - and the left hand holds the driver to put the screw in. It is easier to do than it sounds. And pretty accurate. Having said all that, there were times when I looked at a post and wondered how it got so crooked! I backed the screws out and redid it…