Those 4.5% grades tend to be a bit hard on the drive units. I wore out 2 B’mann (early versions) engines while having to negotiate a 5% grade on a curve. The new construction has eliminated that grade.
Looking at the rather nice layout growing there , I am reminded of Ric’s Rocks . Do you think Ric will slice his down like that ? Bet he can’t move 'em as easy as them .
Eh , Ric ?
Nice looking setup .
Mike
ps Ken , you truckers are all heavy footed .
pps , should have included Bouck’s Boulders .
Mike Morgan said:It's not a heavy foot, just a very lite pedal..................;)
ps Ken , you truckers are all heavy footed .
Mike,
A whole lot of the rocks are already flat and came from raised gardens my Father-in-law had. Well. the deed is officially done. Thank God for young shoulders and arms. The boys, my and son- in- law, did a lot of the heavy lifting and tonight, the 3 of our parents that are still alive are all safe and being cared for. My Mom, who is the youngest of the group, has been in a retirement community for 8 years. Now I hav etime to think about our own lives, again.
Another load of rocks came home with us again, today. I guess there are one or two tons left, but I don’t know if we’ll be going for them.
Bruce,
On your ladder track method, how far are you driving the vertical supports into the ground? How close together and what material? Your work looks very good. Thanks for sharing it.
Ric,
Thanks! I’m sure not deep enough. I probably go in only about 8 inches or so. I put these in about every 15 inches or so. They do not have pointed ends, as this supposed to help minimize frost heave. We’ll have our first test in about 4 or 5 months! But I’m using screws to hold the track in place, so I should be able to get underneath if necessary.
Well, on one of the nicest summer days in a long time, I managed to get some layout work done today. I put in the length of track that will eventually connect to the double siding in the foreground. Of course, it’s a bit hard to see with the train on it. 
But, now it has me thinking. Would it be better to have an industry for each siding? Instead of two sidings for one industry?
And I was able to run a train to check the track out. Found some problem areas and they’ll be addressed shortly.
Lookin good, Bruce. and you’re right…it was a beauifulo day! I finished up a stup switch and got it placed today. It connects the temporary part with the permanent one. Got some levelin to do tommorow and maybe…just maybe I’ll run a train…
Ken Brunt said:
Lookin good, Bruce. and you’re right…it was a beauifulo day! I finished up a stup switch and got it placed today. It connects the temporary part with the permanent one. Got some levelin to do tommorow and maybe…just maybe I’ll run a train…
And I ran a train…
Bruce,
The bridge/trestle really came out great. The RR is looking good. I’ve found heat to be the biggest enemy of outdoor structures, etc., even more than moisture, and that’s here in a rather cool place. I’d be interested in knowing how your structures and roadbed do in your heat back there and if you’ve discovered anything especially “heat-proof”. I figure if it’ll work for you it’ll work even better for me. 
Ken,
That rail yard area looks good. You should post more photos of your RR (or maybe I just missed 'em).
Well, after a couple of weeks vacation, I finally got around to working on the layout again. It’s slow going, but I’m still having fun. Before I started building a railroad, I used to think my yard was not only flat, but level as well. Those delusions are long gone. I’ve almost finished the town of Jackson. I still have to complete a passing siding near the house. And, there’s one little siding next to a host cart…but I’m debating taking that out as it goes under a Japanese Maple tree…so it’s a bit hard to reach. I’ve changed the track layout a little bit, to allow for stepping room.
While at Home Depot today, I couldn’t find the “Never Rot” stuff (they enjoy moving things around on me) but found a new product to try: “TUF Board”. They claim it’s a “maintenance free composite plastic”, with all sorts of advantages. The immediate advantage that I saw was that it was $3.80 for an 8 foot section. I had been paying close to $11 for a 12 foot section of the other stuff. It doesn’t seem quite as flexible but that may be for the good, or it could just be the result of being shorter. The shortness is a good thing - much easier to stash in my convertible - nothing hangs over the rear bumper now. Anyway, I bought a lot of it, so I sure hope it works.
Sure are making a lot of progress! Keep up the good work!
Work continues. I put in the passing siding in Jackson, so the town is basically complete. I removed a switch up by the hose cart, finally concluding that it would be too difficult to spot cars there under the tree.
I also continued the main past the trestle.
This is where I started to believe I had a problem. It’s a solid 3% grade the whole way, which is about as steep as I wanted. Actually, I would have liked to keep it under 3%, but that wasn’t going to happen if I wanted to get to my underpass.
And, the underpass just isn’t going to cut it. The white board coming out of the right hand side of the picture is where the track should cross under the track coming from my camel back bridge. It would have to be over 6% grade to get enough clearance. And, I really don’t want to elevate any more the bridge track - it has to be able to be stepped over. I’m still experimenting with relocating the crossing, but the geography doesn’t really look good. I over-estimated the amount of room I have to make the loops, and I also misjudeged my terrain. So, one thought is to have a single loop that would be elevated to the height of the current bridge; and it may be tighter than my 10’ radius curves elsewhere. (I was experimenting with that in the picture-as the original track was supposed to be straight from the bridge and cross over that white board.) And, where the other loop would have been I’m thinking that maybe I could put in a tiny yard - so I’d basically have an out and back arrangement. I could still have a link for continuous running, but this arrangement would also require a turntable in the yard so that I could change directions. Nothing like the reality of the landscape to upset my plans. I guess that’s the advantage of elevating the layout - you end up with a lot more control over the grade! Anyway, I’m going to have to rethink my current design - at least at that end.
A possible solution:
I’ve added a connection to allow for continuous running, but that would not be used during an operating session. Of course this would require making a turntable, but that could be a fun project. I’ll have to contact Richard for details on his. And I have to think through the yard design - have to make sure I can reach the switches. Plus, I’m not sure what to include, other than a run around track.
Bruce,
I like your trackplan. As to the overpass why not adjust the grade and put in a crossing. Good excuse for a tower, etc. Or you could do like the Western Pacific had in Oakland, California. The private right of way ended and the track went into the pavement on 3rd Street. An industrial track crossed the main there and a swing gate was placed normally closing the industrial track which was swung out across the mainline when the siding was switched.
I thought about a crossing, but I’m starting to like this new plan. Yesterday I finished support for the passing siding and freight spur.
I also put in a four foot bridge and did the support for that.
Finally, I started on the elevated loop.
I would have done more, but I ran out of support pieces. I think I’ll put some track down today.
Bruce,
I was down at the local HD the other day checking prices for that material you use for your construction. Seriously considering using that method.
Our HD is so pitiful…they never heard of the stuff. But that’s ok as Lowes has it. It’s going to be the material of choice for my layout too. A bit pricy here @ $12.95 for a 12’ length.
Warren
Well…I WAS using the pricey stuff…but have now switched over to the TUF board. It’s $3.80 for 8 feet. It also seems a bit stiffer as well as being thicker. Actually, the 8 foot length makes them a LOT easier to get in my car, and also just easier to handle in general. Put down a box of track yesterday…
Very happy with the results…especially since my cars stay on track…
Bruce,
Thanks for sharing the latest pictures. Very nice looking track work.
Richard Smith said:
Bruce,I like your trackplan. As to the overpass why not adjust the grade and put in a crossing. Good excuse for a tower, etc. Or you could do like the Western Pacific had in Oakland, California. The private right of way ended and the track went into the pavement on 3rd Street. An industrial track crossed the main there and a swing gate was placed normally closing the industrial track which was swung out across the mainline when the siding was switched.
so, how do you get through the gate without tripping on the trestle?