Large Scale Central

Initial operations on the DC&M

Hi All… Enough construction is now completed to permit at least limited operation over a portion of the right-of-way. Here narrow gauge Boxcab 103 waits in the hole at Nullarbor while a short string of varnish with company Brass aboard rumbles through.

Because the DC&M’s Brass Hat (me) is an old geezer with bad back and weak knees, the railroad is built on elevated benchwork. Let me say right up front that almost everything I’ve done is a direct rip-off from either Richard Smith or Rick Marty, or both. I am deeply indebted to both gentlemen for all their kind help and wise advice. Seeing their work got me out of my armchair and into the back yard at last. Still, no two railroads are exactly alike, and I’d like to tell you a little about mine. It’s an ambitious project (for me, anyway) with about five hundred feet of point-to-point mainline wandering around the verges of our property. Here’s an aerial view, with the route roughly sketched in. About a third of this is now in place; the part from A to B is in operation:

If I can claim anything I’ve done is original, it’s in the prefabricated modular benchwork. I wanted it to “flow” smoothly along the route, so I chose to use plywood, which can be bent (with care) to any reasonable curve. Here my son-in-law George is holding a “typical” single-track curved ladder module (26 ft radius). It’s 8 ft long, 16 inches wide, and 8 inches deep:

Five of these modules, strung end-to-end, make up the big curve between La Mange and Dry Creek:

The porous deck is just half-inch wire mesh, topped with polyester landscape fabric and a loose fill of fairly coarse gravel. I’m still experimenting with different fills to find the best balance of drainage and appearance. The deck at Nullarbor is filled with “Montana rainbow rock” which is just natural (not crushed) pea gravel with a fancier name, a little more color when wet, and a higher price:

Redwood riser blocks are nailed to the underlying ladder cross-members; these provide firm anchor points for the track. I haven’t decided what to use for ballast yet, but even without ballast the track doesn’t seem to move around much at all. Here are the lap sidings at Nullarbor, looking east toward Turnback Curve:

The DC&M is intended to be an “operating” pike, with train crews (so far, that’s me) following along with their trains. Locos are battery powered and radio-controlled. Switch throws are manual; here’s my interpretation of Fr. Fred’s “Original (patented) KayDee barrel-bolt ground throw.” It’s softly sprung, to permit trains to pass through “wrong way” without derailing:

That’s a quick overview of the DC&M as it is today. I still have two thirds of the railroad to build, including major terminals at Delores and Dry Creek, so I won’t run out of things to do anytime soon. Life is a journey, right? For now, I’m just happy to be operating over a portion of the railroad.

Thank you for taking time to look.

Man, that’s one heck of a setup… Looks good… :slight_smile:

Nice. Looks like a good bit of thought was used before work commenced, which is always good.

Wow Steve that looks so good! Your track is sure a lot straighter than mine too. hehe! Did you provide for frost heave? I know the guys up north use cement blocks to set the legs in.

Please keep us informed as to how this works out because it looks like a really great innovation that others will want to try. Congratulations on a job well done as well as getting some ops.

Nice! Looking forward to further updates…:wink:

Thats looking grdeat so far. The throws for the switches look great.

Nice!

Very nice setup, Steve.
Looks like it will be a very cool pike to run.
Ralph

Thanks, All. You’re very kind.

Richard: Frost heave? Here in benign Montana? You must be kidding!

More seriously, yes I did give it a few minutes thought. The first test sections I built were on posts set directly into the soil (no concrete), so I built some adjustments into the benchwork to make realignment (if necessary) easy. After two winters, nothing seems to have moved. Current practice is to support roadbed modules on “trestle bents” set directly onto the undisturbed native soil; I cribbed that notion from the OVGRS guys.

Steve

Hi Steve,
Nice to see that beautiful scratched Box Cab has some place to turn it’s wheels and get a little exercise.

Wonderful job of construction and placement of the railroad. The big sweeping curves are wonderful,
wish I had the “flat” area to be able do that.

I think your “ground cover” looks just fine and it would be easy to move for installation of additional trackage.

Looking forward to seeing more of your
railroad and construction methods/ideas
Rick

Steve - Your roadbed modules look fantastic. Great idea! I’d like to see a little more detail on the barrel bolt update; I have a few spots that I need a spring switch. It looks like you drilled clean through the barrel then used brass rod to run through it. Is that it? I imagine a drill press is needed to do that.

Thanks again, guys John: Yes, that’s how I did it, but there are some subtleties. I’ve put some details in another post for you: http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?pid=159436#p159436 Rick: The main problem with the rainbow rock is that it’s all about the same size (3/8 inch). The layer is only 3/4 inch deep, so the landscape cloth sees some sunlight through the pores. I don’t know if UV will break it down or not. But as you point out, it’s sure easy to rearrange track. I have a small test station in a separate location exposed to the worst of our weather. I’m experimenting with various combinations of fill and ballast to see what will work best.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/dawgnabbit/DCM/testmod.jpg)

What I’d really like to find for ballast is crushed red cinders, but there doesn’t seem to be a source within easy hauling distance of me. What is the screen size on the black cinder fill you use for ground cover? Cheers

Now that is some serious fore-thought! Nice. Love the boxcab!

Question on the plywood - are you using a marine grade or using something on it to help protect it from the weather?
Really cool start on your layout.

Steve too bade you are not close to me. The Poconos in PA and the western side of the Kittatinnies here in NJ have red rock and cinder. They actually use it on the roads and as grit in the winter.

Hi, All…

Shawn: Thanks for the kind thought. PA and NJ are a bit far away to haul rock, or I’d take you up on that. I may drop down to Craters of the Moon in nearby Idaho and see what I can find/steal/buy there.

Steve: I haven’t tried marine grade plywood because (A) the local yards don’t stock it, and (B) I’m too cheap to have a whole bunk shipped in. I started building with ground-contact-rated, treated plywood, then switched to common ACX fir, which is much nicer to work with.

You touch on a very important point. If water can get between the plies and freeze, it will cause separation. I’m very picky about filling every void with waterproof caulk, and sealing all exposed edges with latex paint. Then the whole ladder gets painted, inside and out, with at least two coats of paint. This goes surprisingly quickly, and is cheap insurance.

After two winters, the treated plywood ladder shows no sign of deterioration; after one winter, neither does the ACX. I’ll uncross my fingers after another winter…

Again, thanks to all of you for being interested in my railroad.

Regards. Steve

Steve:

Thanks for the info on the plywood. Hope to start on my layout early next year and have decided it has to be elevated - building my wife’s Oriental garden has proved to me the knees no longer like bending and kneeling!

Steve Seitel said:
Thanks again, guys

Rick:
What I’d really like to find for ballast is crushed red cinders, but there doesn’t seem to be a source within easy hauling distance of me. What is the screen size on the black cinder fill you use for ground cover?

Cheers


Hi Steve,
What I have been using is 3/8 screened cinder. The cinder will absorb water but sheds it fast. In your colder climate there may be a problem of freezing to consider, because even here in Eden I have seen the cinders “frost heave”. By frost heave I mean a 1/2 inch layer on the surface, hee hee.

I would be very careful trying to obtain something from “Craters of the Moon” as that is a very small Park and they are very proud of it, I think they have every rock numbered, hee hee.

For real cinders come to a Volcanic area like Northeastern California. You know, you have been here.
Come to think of it cinders are very light so I am sure we could figure out some bulk mailing or UPS delivery
to outback Montana.

Keep up the great work
Rick

Thanks, Rick.
That’s helpful information. I hadn’t considered water absorption, which could be problematic here. Maybe next time I pass through California…
Cheers,

That is quite a project, Steve… Looks fantastic… :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

Thanks for the link…