Large Scale Central

Ice house build

Modeling
#21

Bob did not in his freight building and I dont think this is going to be bigger then that building.
I guess I will find out. This is going to be the first build with the stuff…heck its only going to be my second scrach build.
LikeI said we will see how I do and what it look likes. I figure if I realy mess up I could always clame its abandon business.

#22
Geoff George said:
Snip

Ken I alread have a building named after Andy…
Snip
thanks


why do I feel like i’ve been abused???

#23

Dont worry Andy its not a out house. :smiley: Its the Mine building. A & J Clarke Minning.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/geogeorge/_forumfiles/IMG00143.jpg)

#24

ok stopped off at Lowe’s had to get some stuff and left with something I was not planing on getting. I’m sure I’m not the only one to ever do that. Well I stopped and looked at jig saws thinking it would be nice to have one for modle building. That way I dont have to cut everything by hand all the time and seeing that I am going to try and build more things on my own and kit bash stuff there is going to be lots of cutting. Well the jig saw did not make the cut… Thats funny and you know it. Here is what I left with. It was the same price as the jig saw and I thought it would be more useful then the jig saw would be.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/geogeorge/_forumfiles/tablesaw.JPG)

It came with the stand. I thought the movable fence and all the other things a Table saw will do was better then the Jig saw seeing I dont do alot of fine cruving cuts and such. 119.00 so I did not think it a bad price. Now just need to get the plains and other supplies and I’m ready to build. cant wait to fire her up the neighbors in the Aprtment are going to love me.

#25

Good luck cleaning up the carpet after running that saw indoors :o

My cheapo Sears table saw was one of the most useful tools I ever bought. Just mind your fingers.

#26

Jon its set up on the porch. even if it wernt it cant be any worse then the sand that blows in if you leave a window open. :slight_smile:

#27

Geoff, think about making a zero clearance blade insert for it.

#28
Randy McDonald said:
Geoff, think about making a zero clearance blade insert for it.
Ok for give me but what would that be?
#29

Goeff,

There will be an insert plate that you remove to change the saw blade. This device has a slot to allow the blade to be raised and lowered through. Depending on the model of saw you purchased, the manufacturer may sell blank inserts with no slot (my Rigid does). Zero clearance means that you lower the saw blade all the way down. Install the blank insert. Turn on the saw. With a push stick holding down on the insert, SLOWLY, raise the blade through the insert. This creates a slot in the insert only as wide as the blade will cut.

I don’t know if you read the other board, but one of the members there is doing a nice tutorial on table saw usage for our hobby. Bob forgive me, but here is a link to their thread http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/119461/afv/topic/Default.aspx.

Bob C.

#30

thanks Bob will take a look at the link.

#31

The look unemployed.

Bruce Chandler said:
Geoff, the painted styrene loading dock should hold up well. Even though my Miracle Chair company building rotted, the styrene dock survived. I made it from strips back in 2003, or so. A razor saw was used to add grain to the strips. Probably not really necessary. :wink:

(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/MiracleChair/End/IMG_9011e.JPG)

I repainted it for use with the C.M. Oates company and glued the back stairs to the dock.

(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Structures/Oates/IMG_9130.JPG)

Be very careful with gluing the siding to styrene. It’s VERY easy to have the siding “melt” or deform. I’m assuming you have the styrene already, otherwise I’d sure recommend the 1/4" (6mm) Sintra. Cutting window openings CAN be done with a knife. 1/4" styrene is a bit tougher.

#32

The page was not found.

Bob Cope said:
Goeff,

There will be an insert plate that you remove to change the saw blade. This device has a slot to allow the blade to be raised and lowered through. Depending on the model of saw you purchased, the manufacturer may sell blank inserts with no slot (my Rigid does). Zero clearance means that you lower the saw blade all the way down. Install the blank insert. Turn on the saw. With a push stick holding down on the insert, SLOWLY, raise the blade through the insert. This creates a slot in the insert only as wide as the blade will cut.

I don’t know if you read the other board, but one of the members there is doing a nice tutorial on table saw usage for our hobby. Bob forgive me, but here is a link to their thread http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/119461/afv/topic/Default.aspx.

Bob C.

#33

You guys do really good work.
I wish I could do half as good as you do.
My stuff looks like last weeks trash compared what I have seen on this site.
David

#34

David, et al,

I don’t understand why it doesn’t work, I copy/clipped it directly from the URL bar into the post here. Maybe Bob M can shed some light.

Any way, for those interested, the link was to My Large Scale forums, Model Making, Cutting Scale Lumber on a Table Saw, Tips and Techniques. You do not have to be a member to read the forums, same as here.

Bob C.

#35
David Kapp said:
You guys do really good work. I wish I could do half as good as you do. My stuff looks like last weeks trash compared what I have seen on this site. David
David your right there is some amazing stuff built by these guys. I how ever am not one of them yet but I am trying to get there. There is this saying on here that if it looks right then it must be right. If it looks good to yu then it is good. I dont try to build something that will pass the 1 foot rule or look like its real in photos. My layout no one will ever get closer then 20 feet from my buildings so I build for that 20 foot rule. We will have to see how the ice house truns out.

Now are there pictures of what you ahve built? you know to post pictures because we love pictures on this site.

#36

My rule of thumb for my buildings is that they have to be strong enough to be hosed down for clean up. I was amazed at how much mud splashes up on building when it rains here. I also try not to build spots that will serve as a gathering spot for leaves…

#37
Bruce Chandler said:
My rule of thumb for my buildings is that they have to be strong enough to be hosed down for clean up.
That is a good rule to go by.

Generally, the pictures posted here are as close as anyone will get to any building I’ve put together. I detailed the interior of one building. I’m the only one to have ever seen the interior in person. Haven’t seen it since I built it, other than photos :wink:
Ralph

#38

Ken got the plains today.
thanks a million. Man this is a big building.
will have to spend a few days reading over everything and then start the build.
this should be fun.

#39

any thoughts on how you are going to make the blocks of ice? My brother is working on a citrus plant with an ice dock to come later, and it seems that the blocks could be cast in resin?

John

#40

Clear acrylic also works after a bit of working over with sand paper/wire brush. The can be cut on the table saw and the cut edges cleaned up by running a torch over them.

Bob C.