Large Scale Central

How to cut clapboard siding?

Modeling
#11

Boomer from my understanding Randy sets his dado at the proper angle then runs the piece of wood through then resets the fence by 1/2 and runs it through again. It makes for a great looking wall.

Here is a photo of what I’m attempting to building. I think it is a neat looking somewhat unique structure.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/watertankwindmill1887.jpg)

I thought having the clapboard siding would look really nice on it instead of doing my usual planks but I think I went too far on the build yesterday to consider using clapboard on it. It is coming along quickly. The roof piece came from a cheap plastic porch light that was replaced years ago. I will put a few windows in and a door but not do the dormers. The windmill will be made out of metal and will be a copy of the 5" one that many of us have on our layouts.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/watertankwindmill.jpg)

#12

Todd Haskins said:

I think Iwill look into a dadoe blade, maybe they are not as much money as they used to be?? YA RIGHT !! That one piece will weather the elements alot better than many seperate ones.

Todd, last year I bought a complete set pf Dado blades at Canadian Tire up here for $39.00 on sale, regularly they range anywhere between $89 and $115.

When I want something from Can Tire I go to their website then sign on to get an e-mail when it’s coming up for sale. This has worked out great for me a few times now. 'Course, you have to be willing to wait…

I think everything in the stores comes up at a decent sale price at least once a year, and if you get to know the system - which I’ve sorta’ got figured out now because we also get a flyer in the paper every week - then you’ll have a rough idea of how often and at what time(s) of the year a particular item is going to come up.

Ordinarily, however, if I want a good price. I’m generally better off geting it in the 'States. Myabe down stateside you guys have an outfit that operates in much the same way as our favorite store up here.

Now I just need Randy to show me how to USE my Dado blades - I need to cut clapboard, and board and batten, and stair stringers. My saw winters out in the shed. I expect that come the warm weather I’ll see what I can do with those dados…
Haven’t got a clue…

#13

Boomer this is how I do it. Just grabbed a piece of scrap for this example. In this example I am using a 3/8" dadoe (about = to 7 1/2" exposure on your clapboards in 1:20.3 scale) Tilt the dadoe about 7 degrees, blade height so right side of blade is cutting nothing or maybe barely.

First pass the fence is set at zero, second pass fence is set at 3/8" (same width as dadoe blade) 3rd pass at 3/4", 4th at 1 1/8" and so on. You can play with the dadoe angles and dadoe blade widths to get your own custom size clapboards(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

#14

Oops I will have to work on that pic…sorry.

#15

I used the same process as Randy did except with a regular saw blade and only cutting through the first ply every half inch to make a retaining wall as seen in this photo at bottom right. I also used this process to make tunnel portals.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/SHAYexcursions.jpg)

I’m still going to check out a dado setup next time I get out to the shops. I have seen online prices from $40 to hundreds! I bet you get what you pay for. I forgot that you can cut board and batten with the dados. Cool.

#16

Yep my board and batten for my station was made with the dadoe blade.

FYI my dadoe blade was about $350.00 but it has to perform to cabinet standards, I am thinking almost any lesser cost set would wor just fine for what we are talking about

#17

That was good Randy, thanks. Even I should be able to copy you on that.

#18

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

In my mind that is a killer pic Randy…nice shot!

#19

That clapboard siding looks nice, but those green chili chicken enchiladas look amazing!

-Kevin.

#20

Randy McDonald said:

Boomer this is how I do it. Just grabbed a piece of scrap for this example. In this example I am using a 3/8" dadoe (about = to 7 1/2" exposure on your clapboards in 1:20.3 scale) Tilt the dadoe about 7 degrees, blade height so right side of blade is cutting nothing or maybe barely.

First pass the fence is set at zero, second pass fence is set at 3/8" (same width as dadoe blade) 3rd pass at 3/4", 4th at 1 1/8" and so on. You can play with the dadoe angles and dadoe blade widths to get your own custom size clapboards(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

Hi Randy… I’m still trying to fig. out how to make each cut on my Shopsmith… It dosen’t have any scale on the table to go by so have to use a ruller to get distance for each cut. For some reson i just don’t get the same space on each cut to look right or like yours. Is there some other way you can think of to get even cuts with some kind of a added fence and us the org. fence in one place at the far side of the table? There has to be another way to get even cuts on this Shopsmith.

I made some stairs with a pc. of small angle molding clamp to the table and after first cut was able to lay board over the angle for next cut. It worked ok, but not this sidding to work that way…

I’m using the same idea with set up dadoe saw like yours. Just the angle board like i did with the stairs is to thin to clamp down on something that small to lay the board for next cut.

Got any Ideas Randy?

#21

Noel I am not up to speed on the Shopsmith tablesaw but as long as you have have fence on it for ripping stock your in business. Just move the fence away from the blade the same thickness of the dadoe after each pass. (in my example 3/8") So 1st @ 0", 2nd @ 3/8", 3rd @ 3/4", 4th @ 1 1/8", etc. Get back to me if this doesn’t make sense.

#22

Noel, I too have a ShopSmith. There is no easy way, though you could attach a tape to the table. ShopSmith has one in their catalog.

Another way is to cut spacers and use those, removing one after each cut of the project piece.

#23

The spacer thing would work Steve, rip a long thin strip of wood the same thickness as the dadoe blade. cut into a bunch of shorter pieces. Say start with 10 or so of these pieces between your work piece and the fence. Then after each cut take out 1 of these spacer strips.

#24

Not really familiar with the shopsmith either but what about putting a strip of masking tape on the front of the saw table. Align the fence with the blade and mark the tape. Then take your ruler or tape measure and make spacing marks ( 3/8" or whatever you want ) on the tape. Make your first cut, move the fence to the next mark, make the next cut, move the fence etc.

I have used this method to make board and batten siding for my sandhouse walls.

#25

To Ron and Randy: thanks for the tips fellas, it really helps to have you experienced guys point the way. It probably all seems so simple to you - and it is, of course - but some of us haven’t ever done this kind of thing before. I’ve had a small portable table saw for a couple of years now, so far I’ve only used it a few times for ripping longish pieces of stock, and I still feel a bit nervous when I turn that motor on, owing to my own inexperience with power tools like this. So your knowledge and confidence, and the tips you offer, are a real boost for me!

#26

Randy McDonald said:

Noel I am not up to speed on the Shopsmith tablesaw but as long as you have have fence on it for ripping stock your in business. Just move the fence away from the blade the same thickness of the dadoe after each pass. (in my example 3/8") So 1st @ 0", 2nd @ 3/8", 3rd @ 3/4", 4th @ 1 1/8", etc. Get back to me if this doesn’t make sense.

Hi guys… I look in the Cat. and i seen the glue down tap to install on the table… On the shopsmith they don’t have a gear driven travel fence… Just the old style that has a locking handle on the oper side.

It not very precision movements.

Will try the small 3/8 pc like you said and remove one at a time on each cut. About the only way i can see it working… Good idea.

This Mark 5 has been a very neat pc of equipment with all of the attachments except the paint sprayer… Got it brand new in 1957 and only had to change out the carriage bearings once.

Still like new.

Steve F.

What model do you have?

#27

I inherited my father’s ShopSmith that my mother bought for him in 1957. I replaced the motor, and did the other upgrades as well, so now I have the current model, with quite a few attachments, some of which I still haven’t used.

Its a great tool, but I wish that I had purchased a stand alone 14 inch band saw for half the money I paid for the ShopSmith 11 inch bandsaw.

#28

Geesssssss. Same year i got mine.Mark V in Brownish and silver color… first change over from the off green and silver job.

Mine came with a Delta Band 11" Bandsaw.

I kind of wish i had a little more hp. tho.Mine came with only 1 hp motor. I got the ShopSmith stand to hold tools and able to roll it around that is nice…

The only bad thing like you if had room like to have a stand alone table saw.

Well another thing … Forget about doing any job very fast even it can just about do most jobs on one tool… Just takes time to set up for next job.

#29

I think that the new motor is 1 and 7/8 horsepower.

I think that if I had to do it over, I probably would have just gotten some stand alone tools for the major stuff, and used the ShopSmith for the infrequent stuff.

#30

Steve Featherkile said:

I think that the new motor is 1 and 7/8 horsepower.

I think that if I had to do it over, I probably would have just gotten some stand alone tools for the major stuff, and used the ShopSmith for the infrequent stuff.

I looked into getting a Shopsmith years ago, and that was one of the reasons I didn’t. Breakdown and set-up from one job to the next. I also had the room for separate tools for each job.