Noel I am not up to speed on the Shopsmith tablesaw but as long as you have have fence on it for ripping stock your in business. Just move the fence away from the blade the same thickness of the dadoe after each pass. (in my example 3/8") So 1st @ 0", 2nd @ 3/8", 3rd @ 3/4", 4th @ 1 1/8", etc. Get back to me if this doesn’t make sense.
Noel, I too have a ShopSmith. There is no easy way, though you could attach a tape to the table. ShopSmith has one in their catalog.
Another way is to cut spacers and use those, removing one after each cut of the project piece.
The spacer thing would work Steve, rip a long thin strip of wood the same thickness as the dadoe blade. cut into a bunch of shorter pieces. Say start with 10 or so of these pieces between your work piece and the fence. Then after each cut take out 1 of these spacer strips.
Not really familiar with the shopsmith either but what about putting a strip of masking tape on the front of the saw table. Align the fence with the blade and mark the tape. Then take your ruler or tape measure and make spacing marks ( 3/8" or whatever you want ) on the tape. Make your first cut, move the fence to the next mark, make the next cut, move the fence etc.
I have used this method to make board and batten siding for my sandhouse walls.
To Ron and Randy: thanks for the tips fellas, it really helps to have you experienced guys point the way. It probably all seems so simple to you - and it is, of course - but some of us haven’t ever done this kind of thing before. I’ve had a small portable table saw for a couple of years now, so far I’ve only used it a few times for ripping longish pieces of stock, and I still feel a bit nervous when I turn that motor on, owing to my own inexperience with power tools like this. So your knowledge and confidence, and the tips you offer, are a real boost for me!
Randy McDonald said:
Noel I am not up to speed on the Shopsmith tablesaw but as long as you have have fence on it for ripping stock your in business. Just move the fence away from the blade the same thickness of the dadoe after each pass. (in my example 3/8") So 1st @ 0", 2nd @ 3/8", 3rd @ 3/4", 4th @ 1 1/8", etc. Get back to me if this doesn’t make sense.
Hi guys… I look in the Cat. and i seen the glue down tap to install on the table… On the shopsmith they don’t have a gear driven travel fence… Just the old style that has a locking handle on the oper side.
It not very precision movements.
Will try the small 3/8 pc like you said and remove one at a time on each cut. About the only way i can see it working… Good idea.
This Mark 5 has been a very neat pc of equipment with all of the attachments except the paint sprayer… Got it brand new in 1957 and only had to change out the carriage bearings once.
Still like new.
Steve F.
What model do you have?
I inherited my father’s ShopSmith that my mother bought for him in 1957. I replaced the motor, and did the other upgrades as well, so now I have the current model, with quite a few attachments, some of which I still haven’t used.
Its a great tool, but I wish that I had purchased a stand alone 14 inch band saw for half the money I paid for the ShopSmith 11 inch bandsaw.
Geesssssss. Same year i got mine.Mark V in Brownish and silver color… first change over from the off green and silver job.
Mine came with a Delta Band 11" Bandsaw.
I kind of wish i had a little more hp. tho.Mine came with only 1 hp motor. I got the ShopSmith stand to hold tools and able to roll it around that is nice…
The only bad thing like you if had room like to have a stand alone table saw.
Well another thing … Forget about doing any job very fast even it can just about do most jobs on one tool… Just takes time to set up for next job.
I think that the new motor is 1 and 7/8 horsepower.
I think that if I had to do it over, I probably would have just gotten some stand alone tools for the major stuff, and used the ShopSmith for the infrequent stuff.
Steve Featherkile said:
I think that the new motor is 1 and 7/8 horsepower.
I think that if I had to do it over, I probably would have just gotten some stand alone tools for the major stuff, and used the ShopSmith for the infrequent stuff.
I looked into getting a Shopsmith years ago, and that was one of the reasons I didn’t. Breakdown and set-up from one job to the next. I also had the room for separate tools for each job.
The wind mill tank tower is almost done. It would have looked better with a clapboard siding but the old painted planks look OK.
Originally it was constructed to supply water for a yet to built cranberry bog investmetn but the RR caught wind of it and donated some needed cash to aide and speed in the construction of it so now it will be placed closer to the tracks and a spout attached to fill tenders and tanks if needed. The side dog house and spout assembly are removable and interchangeable and will be attached once the final spot has been chosen.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/windmilltanktower.jpg)
That’s sweet, Todd. The vertical siding look is OK; trust me. The whole thing has an old colony kind of Cape Coddy look to it, a little New-England inventive and eye catching, pleasantly unusual-looking, just the sort of thing my eyes search for when I’m in your corner of the world. Give it some doorknobs. I declare it a winner!
Thanks John. It is a unusual structure. That is what caught my eye in that photo from 1887 that I posted earlier.
I forgot the doorknobs!! You have sharp eyes. Those doors and windows are the basic no frills included, good enough to further the illusion and get the job done with a easy weather proof fix kinda build. They are repeated on the back.
I’m very happy with the way the wind mill and tower part came out. You gotta love a pin nailer for pinning dowels and craft sticks.
I might add a few more tidbits to spruce it up a bit more. maybe an awning over the door?
Now back to thinking about building those switches.
Wow Todd, that turned out great!!!
-Kevin.