Large Scale Central

How to cut clapboard siding?

Modeling
#1

My next project will be a square 3 story + water tank with a windmill on top and I thought maybe I would try to do clapboard siding on it but I don’t know how to cut it. I tried my table saw set at a 5 then a 10 degree angle with the fence set very close to the blade and then ran a short piece of 3/4 pine through it as a test. The resulting piece was still too thick so then I tried the fence closer and it served to trim the top of the board.

I tried a search here with variations of how to cut clap board siding and came up empty. I know I have seen guys do clapboard in one sheet with a dado blade I think but I don’t have one of those.

How can I setup my saw to cut individual planks for clapboard? Is it possible?

#2

Todd,

I have contemplated the same issue and the only solution I can come up with requires a joiner, or a second table saw. I have the joiner so my process would be as follows:

Step 1: Rip or thickness plane the board to the total height of the clapboard.

Step 2: Set the joiner fence to the desired angle of the face of the clapboard and run the board through until the face is cut. (on mine it would take two passes).

Step 3: Go to the table saw and set up a stop block to be able to cut the thickness of the clapboard. I at one time posted a link to the other site and an article by Bob Sorensen (?) on cutting scale lumber which describes the stop block very well. Rip one clapboard from the base stock.

Step 4: Repeat until you have cut all the material you need. I would probably cut several lengths of raw material to do multiple cuts at each station at a time, save on the shoe wear.

Step 5: Then after all the board feet you need are cut, set up your table saw or router and cut the back side relief cuts like Bart S. rabbited the decking for the flat car.

Best solution I have been able to come up with. If you haev a hobby saw and a full size saw, you might be able to substitute the hobby saw for the joiner.

Bob C.

#3

Todd I make clapboard siding in one piece using the dadoe blade set at a slight angle and move the fence to the right the same distance that you want the width of your clapboards.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0129.JPG)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0131.JPG)

#4

What type of dado blade set are you using Randy?..

#5

That is a sharp looking siding Randy and just what I was remembering can be done with the dadoe. I use a similar process to make retaining walls. I take a piece of plywood cut to the right size then set the blade to score through one ply then rip, reset fence 1/2 inch rip again and so on.

In the real world old timey carpenters take a board and cut through the length of it at an angle which gives them 2 pieces of clapboard. Sounds simple to do right.

Bob if I am following your directions correctly you are making 2 cuts on your planed piece, one to cut the angle then another straight cut to release it from the planed piece of wood hence the need for 2 table saws to keep things moving along.

Maybe what I have been trying to do in my tests is the best it is going to get?

I think Iwill look into a dadoe blade, maybe they are not as much money as they used to be?? YA RIGHT !! That one piece will weather the elements alot better than many seperate ones.

#6

Just your regular stackable set. Two 8" outer blades and 4 tooth inner blades. Use the right number of inner blades to get the required dadoe width.

#7

Todd I looked at doing individual boards and thought it would be a PITA and plus as you said probably to flimsy to weather the elements. I like this approach because it gives you a piece of wood that is way thicker and I can make enough siding for a building in a few minutes. (after I have the boards I am going to use milled to my specs.)

#8

Todd,

The two passes on the planer is to set the angle. I have the depth on my joiner set very shallow, somwheres about .020 per pass, hence the two passes to set the angle. Once the angle is set on the joiner, then go to the table saw to make the straight back cut, and part the clapboard from the base stock.

The comments about two table saws was that I know some of the fellows here have both a full size table saw AND a hobby saw like a Proxxon. Assuming I had two saws in stead of the joiner, I would use one saw to set the angle, and the second saw to make the straight cut. Just another option.

To keep progress moving forward, most of my projects will have several different lengths of material required. I would cut several lengths of 1 by stock to length 1/2 to 1 inch longer than the finished length of the milled finished product. That would allow me to go to the joiner and set the angle on multiple pieces, then to the saw and rip them to width, back to the joiner to set the angle and back to the saw, etc, etc.

Randy,

My stacked dado blade leaves a small groove at the bottom outside edge of the blade that when used for it’s intended purpose is never seen. But doing siding it is quite noticeable. I don’t know if the blades are ground wrong or what. What you have shown gives me an idea though. When I purchased my first Sears table saw, it came with a shaper blade and one set of ‘square’ paddle type blades. It might take some fiddling with an insert to make it work, but that might work for clapboards. If I can remember where I put it I will get a pic posted.

Do you thin the thickness of your boards before milling the siding? It appears that the sample shown is only about 1/2" thick.

My process was predicated by Todd’s statement " How can I setup my saw to cut individual planks for clapboard? Is it possible?"

Bob C.

#9

Bob my board that I showed was about 1/2" if I can remember but it doesn’t matter. The thicker the board, it will stand up more in the garden.

#10

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0131.JPG)

:wink:

#11

Boomer from my understanding Randy sets his dado at the proper angle then runs the piece of wood through then resets the fence by 1/2 and runs it through again. It makes for a great looking wall.

Here is a photo of what I’m attempting to building. I think it is a neat looking somewhat unique structure.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/watertankwindmill1887.jpg)

I thought having the clapboard siding would look really nice on it instead of doing my usual planks but I think I went too far on the build yesterday to consider using clapboard on it. It is coming along quickly. The roof piece came from a cheap plastic porch light that was replaced years ago. I will put a few windows in and a door but not do the dormers. The windmill will be made out of metal and will be a copy of the 5" one that many of us have on our layouts.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/watertankwindmill.jpg)

#12

Todd Haskins said:

I think Iwill look into a dadoe blade, maybe they are not as much money as they used to be?? YA RIGHT !! That one piece will weather the elements alot better than many seperate ones.

Todd, last year I bought a complete set pf Dado blades at Canadian Tire up here for $39.00 on sale, regularly they range anywhere between $89 and $115.

When I want something from Can Tire I go to their website then sign on to get an e-mail when it’s coming up for sale. This has worked out great for me a few times now. 'Course, you have to be willing to wait…

I think everything in the stores comes up at a decent sale price at least once a year, and if you get to know the system - which I’ve sorta’ got figured out now because we also get a flyer in the paper every week - then you’ll have a rough idea of how often and at what time(s) of the year a particular item is going to come up.

Ordinarily, however, if I want a good price. I’m generally better off geting it in the 'States. Myabe down stateside you guys have an outfit that operates in much the same way as our favorite store up here.

Now I just need Randy to show me how to USE my Dado blades - I need to cut clapboard, and board and batten, and stair stringers. My saw winters out in the shed. I expect that come the warm weather I’ll see what I can do with those dados…
Haven’t got a clue…

#13

Boomer this is how I do it. Just grabbed a piece of scrap for this example. In this example I am using a 3/8" dadoe (about = to 7 1/2" exposure on your clapboards in 1:20.3 scale) Tilt the dadoe about 7 degrees, blade height so right side of blade is cutting nothing or maybe barely.

First pass the fence is set at zero, second pass fence is set at 3/8" (same width as dadoe blade) 3rd pass at 3/4", 4th at 1 1/8" and so on. You can play with the dadoe angles and dadoe blade widths to get your own custom size clapboards(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

#14

Oops I will have to work on that pic…sorry.

#15

I used the same process as Randy did except with a regular saw blade and only cutting through the first ply every half inch to make a retaining wall as seen in this photo at bottom right. I also used this process to make tunnel portals.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/SHAYexcursions.jpg)

I’m still going to check out a dado setup next time I get out to the shops. I have seen online prices from $40 to hundreds! I bet you get what you pay for. I forgot that you can cut board and batten with the dados. Cool.

#16

Yep my board and batten for my station was made with the dadoe blade.

FYI my dadoe blade was about $350.00 but it has to perform to cabinet standards, I am thinking almost any lesser cost set would wor just fine for what we are talking about

#17

That was good Randy, thanks. Even I should be able to copy you on that.

#18

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

In my mind that is a killer pic Randy…nice shot!

#19

That clapboard siding looks nice, but those green chili chicken enchiladas look amazing!

-Kevin.

#20

Randy McDonald said:

Boomer this is how I do it. Just grabbed a piece of scrap for this example. In this example I am using a 3/8" dadoe (about = to 7 1/2" exposure on your clapboards in 1:20.3 scale) Tilt the dadoe about 7 degrees, blade height so right side of blade is cutting nothing or maybe barely.

First pass the fence is set at zero, second pass fence is set at 3/8" (same width as dadoe blade) 3rd pass at 3/4", 4th at 1 1/8" and so on. You can play with the dadoe angles and dadoe blade widths to get your own custom size clapboards(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kettle_valley/_forumfiles/IMG_0963.JPG)

Hi Randy… I’m still trying to fig. out how to make each cut on my Shopsmith… It dosen’t have any scale on the table to go by so have to use a ruller to get distance for each cut. For some reson i just don’t get the same space on each cut to look right or like yours. Is there some other way you can think of to get even cuts with some kind of a added fence and us the org. fence in one place at the far side of the table? There has to be another way to get even cuts on this Shopsmith.

I made some stairs with a pc. of small angle molding clamp to the table and after first cut was able to lay board over the angle for next cut. It worked ok, but not this sidding to work that way…

I’m using the same idea with set up dadoe saw like yours. Just the angle board like i did with the stairs is to thin to clamp down on something that small to lay the board for next cut.

Got any Ideas Randy?