Large Scale Central

Hoist for the Challenge Mine....

I used Dave’s photos below to guide me through building a hoist for my mine, a hoist which may or may not actually be part of the actual mine, but this hoist is too cool looking a structure to pass up, so it’ll be part of the minehead whether it’s supposed to be or not!

I put a lot of photos up, probably too many, and if I’ve gone over the limit of trying people’s patience, let me know! If you want to skip all the build photos, go to the last few pictures and you’ll see the more or less finished hoist.

I still haven’t figured out how to connect the winding drum to the drum machinery building; presumably there needs to be an axle coming out of the drum machine house connecting to the drum axle? I have no idea yet. Any suggestions will be appreciated. The cable on the drum to the wheel will be braided picture hanging wire. I probably won’t put that on until I connect this hoist up to the actual mine I built for the Challenge.

I got off to a false start without the correct angles and proportions, so I started over on getting the main framing right. I think time spent in the very beginning is critical because if you don’t get the proportions and sizes and scales right in the first place, no amount of detailing will correct it. I’m still not exactly happy with the proportions on the mindehead I built. I think the back roof should have been steeper at a bare minimum, and the width isn’t right. Modelling seems even less forgiving than painting actually!

This is the start of the ladder, and I took a tire and rim off of a broken 1:12 Model T to use for the hoist cable wheel, called a sheave? I think? I don’t know how convincing these ladders are but I can make them very quickly anyway.

I STILL NEED TO GET ME ONE OF THEM PIN NAILERS!!!

This is the assembled frame for the cable wheel, along with that odd triangular frame which is on top of the prototype from Dave’s picture. I’m sure it is to support electrical wire/cable just as Dave suggested in his comments to my Challenge build log.

This is the start of the drum and the hoist drum machine shed. I made the shed out of cardboard and glued the wood siding to it. Simple.

This picture demonstrates the truth of the phrase “You gotta do what you gotta do!” I needed a weight to hold the tin on the roof and the roof to the shed structure, so I grabbed the heaviest handy object.

And here’s a few pictures of where I’m at now with this build, more or less finished, probably not:

Thanks for taking a look and for any suggestions you might have. If anything doesn’t look right, or could look better, let me know for sure.

Nice build, looks wonderful to me… (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Looks purty darn good to me, too!..:wink:

That is a great looking structure and the weathering is spot on. The shed door and pull handle and ladder are well done.

I would say there has to be a shaft coming out of that shed connecting to the drum. Would there be gearing on it? probably not but if there was you can pretend it is all in the shed.

If you didn’t want to use picture wire try fishing reel backing line. It comes in different colours and thickness. I used it on my cable car setup.

Get a a pin nailer.

Great looking hoist John. I can’t tell if that is actually real old wood or just weathered. Thanks for sharing.

Wow John, Nice looking build, Love how old it looks.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

Awesome. I like it a lot

Very well done.

And yes get a pin nailer

Great job, ya done good.

I have both pin nailers and brad nailers too, Don’t get one.

Your work is too clean, a pinner will allow sloppiness to creep in.

Stay true to your craft.

Another work of art!

John

John Caughey said:

Your work is too clean, a pinner will allow sloppiness to creep in.

John

Mostly blood stains…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Thanks for all the comments. It really helps to get some feedback.

I found a place on the layout in a corner and cut a triangular piece of board to fit the space. It’ll be like a shelf. (I’ll take some pictures when I get a chance because if it ain’t in pictures it never happened!) What I’ll do is make basically a diorama out of the mine and hoist. That way it’s part of the layout but I can take it out and move it around if I want to. I don’t know when I’ll get a chance though without falling behind at work. Yikes.

I have a fantasy of taking one of my buildings to one of our shows, but that’s never happened yet. I think people at the show might enjoy seeing the modelling aspect of trains. But, seriously, I keep trying unsuccessfully to find time to grab Kevin and spin out to the museum to run trains. So much model railroading fun to be had and so little time!

Next week I’ll go get a pin nailer up at the hardware store, maybe just Harbor Freight (I don’t understand how they can sell stuff so cheap…the raw materials alone seem to cost more than the price???) and get really good pins, per everyone’s best advice, and I’ll try it out, but I don’t know. John C. may be right.

John Passaro said:

Next week I’ll go get a pin nailer up at the hardware store, maybe just Harbor Freight (I don’t understand how they can sell stuff so cheap…the raw materials alone seem to cost more than the price???) and get really good pins, per everyone’s best advice, and I’ll try it out, but I don’t know. John C. may be right.

remember to get the 3/8 pins and set your compressor to 150 PSI(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)

Just kidding

HF is ok for the machine, but get quality pins … a brand name. My last HF pins were soft and every one jammed in HF’s rough milling, polished you pay more.

Last year I got a Norge brand through Lumber Liq for around $23.

Got a hair trigger! Last month I was using a new little comp and had left the regulator at the factory setting. I have the poor habit of laying the pinner on my thigh until I grab and shoot, some how… I triggered it as I picked it up. I heard the 1/2" pin land, but felt wounded. Looking at my leg I saw where the pin had cut through fibers and bunched the fabric before tumbling off into space. An indoor inspection revealed a small red wound on an egg… was sore for a week!

Set your regulator low and bring it up until the pins embed clean.

John

Devon Sinsley said:

remember to get the 3/8 pins and set your compressor to 150 PSI(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)

Just kidding

Devon, that works great! If you want to shoot the pins right through the work, or, blow the ends off the boards, like I did.

Ken Brunt said:

John Caughey said:

Your work is too clean, a pinner will allow sloppiness to creep in.

John

Mostly blood stains…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Dried blood is a good substitute for rust, due to the iron in the hemoglobin. Ask me how I know this.

Steve Featherkile said:

Ken Brunt said:

John Caughey said:

Your work is too clean, a pinner will allow sloppiness to creep in.

John

Mostly blood stains…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Dried blood is a good substitute for rust, due to the iron in the hemoglobin. Ask me how I know this.

My critters think of it as BBQ sauce(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Nice work John!

Judging from how you like to build you might just want to go with a Grex pinner that could be passed on to your great grandchildren!

John Caughey said:

Your work is too clean, a pinner will allow sloppiness to creep in.

John

Yup, you get sloppy with tools like that. I built a bridge with a pin nailer and…

Look how neat his brads are in that ladder. Drilling first makes it easier to center each hole.

I found that the speed that the pinner caused led me to settle for Close Enough, John’s art would suffer.

Not that things can’t be made. Oranges and Apples.

John

David Russell said:

Nice work John!

Judging from how you like to build you might just want to go with a Grex pinner that could be passed on to your great grandchildren!

I don’t do this often, but I do have to agree with Rooster on this. It’ll hold pins over 1 1/ 2" long. It’s a good quality pin nailer.