Large Scale Central

Help me design my simple layout

Track and Trestles
#1

This has probably been asked a zillion times–with a gazillion answers/solutions. But I was in the bathroom and missed the answer, so once again could you guys please help me plan something reasonably interesting for my Planter Under the Trees (PUTT) Railroad?

I’ve drawn the basic loop, which must remain the same dimensionally, as the working area is 23 feet by 5 feet. I’ve drawn the easy part and included a generous (for its size) passing siding to be accessed by two mid-sized Aristo switches. I allowed about 2 feet at either end coming off the curve so that a train doesn’t have to immediately turn into the siding, which, BTW can hold a Bug Mauler and five cars.

Although I would have prefered larger radius curves, I’m size limited to using those dang 4-foot diameter curves because the planter is only a touch over 5 feet wide. I’m happy with the passing siding, but don’t really know what to so with the rest of the area, which has three trees in the middle as shown on my crude track plan. To keep it from looking boring I thought I’d make the back stretch curvy because the track, which runs between the trees and a fence can meander a bit. Maybe even cut diagonally across to the front side of the layout and maybe even interconnect.

That’s all I got, idea wise. I do know I want some sidings on the front side, which measures 2 feet between the edge of the planter and the trees. I’d like to have some sidings so I can have switch some industries, and maybe a team track or something near the station, which will be located in the front.

Oh, other question: How far apart should the passing track and the main be?

Thanks

#2

Joe, Just a suggestion on layout options to get you thinking. I too have to run in a restricted space. I have added a few features to make things more usable for loop running, switching, and even opps possibilities.

(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/Layout_zpsad8f5308.jpg)

This layout will allow you to reverse direction of running. By putting the switches exiting in different directions for sidings it adds complexity to switching moves, and of course you can add more sidings along the routes and even off the sidings themselves.

I highly recommend running talgo (truck mounted) couplers on all your rolling stock since you have to live with the 4ft curves. Stick to “Shorty” size cars, 90’ auto racks will not make it around, or even 40’ 1:20 passenger cars ( guaranteed to derail with body mount couplers).

#3

Dave I don’t know if Joe runs with battery but if he is track powered you have introduced 2 electrical trouble spots. I liek to keep things as simple as possible and I know the reverse loop can be done but it is a extra cause for concern.
It is a shame you can’t squeeze in the 5’ curves. maybe on the backside of the planter you could build up the ground a bit?

Instead of connecting with the green main at the top why not have the orange stay connected with itself like a dog bone layout.
To the right or left you could do a independent circle where you could have a train running then have switches to reconnect it to back to the main. Around my Christmas tree I have a 4’ diameter loop then inside that a 31" circle and it is fun to time the 2 circling trains to bring the inside one out and get it back in before there is a collision.

Your extra straight track to get into your siding is a good idea. You will want to avoid what is called a reverse curve where the train needs to go through a tight “S” curve.
For your passing siding you can keep it tight to the main but do allow at least 5"s between the center to center of the tracks. you could add another passing siding on top of the one yo have planned or add a switch off to lead to a engine service track.

You certainly have lots of options here to make a interesting and fun layout but do remember to give yourself easy access to all points for switching and maintenance. Also I think a train layout is better when the train has a purpose or a destination. IE… pull cars from industry A do a couple of laps and drop cars at industry B etc…

Have fun and Happy RRing

#4

Oh the possibilities!!!

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/vsmith/Joe_Ruiz_Layout.jpg)

All R1 curves and turnouts, 12" straight segments for planning purposes. This is assuming battery RC w/o track power. If you decide to go track power just eliminate the crossovers from the passing siding to the rear of the loop.

By pulling the rear part of the loop in front of the middle tree keeps the train in view more

#5

@vic I like your design. All switches within easy reach of the front.

@Todd Ck out “It’s Alive” post by Joe. I do believe Joe is going to Batt power.

#6

Thanks, guys. Lesse, “Roger” on the talgo couplers, Dave. I learned about what goes around a 4-foot circle long ago. And I don’t have any long cars. Todd, no wiring problems: I’ve converted one Bug Mauler to battery and will do the other. I agree about adding a little complexity to switching moves. BTW, I can’t build up the planter on the back side because there’s a fence there. Vic, up already? I thought only us old folks got up with the proverbial chickens. It figures that anyone with a pizza layout could figure out how to cram a lot into a little bit of space. I don’t know if this matters, but I have two full circles (i.e. 16 pieces of each size) of 8- and 10-foot diameter curved track, which I bought from Al Kramer years ago in anticipation of building my dream layout. So I’m not restricted to just R1, if that matters.

#7

How about a picture of the proposed area?

Nico

#8

OK Joe,

So this planter is all free and clear?

Lets see how interesting a roundy-round could be.

:wink: :slight_smile:

#9

Dave Taylor said:

@vic I like your design. All switches within easy reach of the front.

@Todd Ck out “It’s Alive” post by Joe. I do believe Joe is going to Batt power.

Dave, that was the idea, given its up against a wall with trees spread thru it, everything needs to be accessible from the front without, or at least with a minimum, of getting under the trees

#10

Guys, this is what the planter looks like. It’s difficult to get a clear shot of it because of the patio furniture and a cluster of flower pots, which I’m guessing, will have to stay since I was lucky enough to score the planter. It is “free and clear” because my wife finally gave up on flowers, which don’t handle deep shade that well. First, there’s the 7-foot tall-fence. Then there’s the two story house next door. We’re talkin’ shade, except in the morning (the planter runs north-south). BTW, when I said the plot was 22 feet long, that’s to where it squares off on the left and not all the way into that triagular area, which would be a great place to put a turntable.

The trees are called Pittosporum something-or other and they grow to about 15 feet, which is where they are now. Tiny leaves (3/4-inch) that shed minimally unless you turn yer back on 'em. The ground is bare, except around the trees, which are encircled with rubber border bands. BTW, They are 3 feet from either end and 5 and a half feet apart, 18 inches from the fence, and 24 in. from the edge of the patio. There are sprinklers, but I’ll set them so they water only the trees, which are not supposed to get too much water (I’ve turned them into water hogs). They have a lot of dead small branches from ground level to about 6 feet, but I will cut them off, if for no other reason than to keep them from poking me in the eye.

As I said, I plan to cover the entire planter, not just the roadbed, with gray decomposed granite, which I can buy nearby in either bag form or by the yard. Since I intend to use it for minimal ground cover I’ll put down maybe a 1/4 inch or so, maybe a half inch depending on how she looks. I once saw a beautiful layout in the Bay Area in GR, that had gold DG and a town with a sawmill, and it looked fantastic and very realistic. Mine, not so much. But at least I’ll be able to run trains, ya?

The pik-chure

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Planter.jpg)

#11

Vic is an expert in planning a interesting layout in a small space. I really like his interpretation.

#12

Joe one thing your going to have to do is prune back some of those branches near the ground. That will clear up ground area and also allow better access with having to dodge branches.

#13

True dat, Vic. Them branches are as good as gone. BTW, I was out there earlier, staring at my proposed layout site, but I am not a good visualizer. I’ll prolly throw some track down on the patio and move pieces of track and various switches around until something clicks. Also, I’m tempted to put in a large boulder or sumthin’ to give the track on the backside a reason to go around said obstruction. Of course I don’t know what that would look like (crappy?). Likewise, I don’t know if DW would go for it.

#14

One thing I would avoid - never mind the extra “possibilities” aka short circuits etc. - is reverse loops.

#15

HJ if he’s planning battery only then the reverse loops should not be any problem, but one thing I would suggest, is to use insulated rail joiners at one end of both the straight tracks at the two crossovers, this would nullify the reverse loop polarity problem. That way if anyone visits they can still hook up a power pack and use track power. They would be limited the the loop only, but that’s better than nothing…after some amount of track cleaning no doubt.

:wink:

#16

Joe Rusz said:

True dat, Vic. Them branches are as good as gone. BTW, I was out there earlier, staring at my proposed layout site, but I am not a good visualizer. I’ll prolly throw some track down on the patio and move pieces of track and various switches around until something clicks. Also, I’m tempted to put in a large boulder or sumthin’ to give the track on the backside a reason to go around said obstruction. Of course I don’t know what that would look like (crappy?). Likewise, I don’t know if DW would go for it.

I think Vics plan is best for that area. It has god possibility’s. The best way is to just laying down track and adjust as needed. Once you start laying track things will fall into place. I would definitely add some nice boulders to the area. Also try to create some view blocks. That will help make the layout appear larger and lots of detail. There are allot of great small layouts out their. Look at the top 3 winners for the small garden railway completion. One in particular was the Yosemite Valley RR.

#17

If the fence is block, then a couple of wheelbarrows of dirt would create a mountain that would be just right for a mining oops, with the tipple and such.

Maybe even a short tunnel. Ck out Todds cinder block tunnel and such. It adds some variety to a flat area.

#18

Vic Smith said:

Oh the possibilities!!!

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/vsmith/Joe_Ruiz_Layout.jpg)

I like this plan. Lots of operational possibility in a very small space.

There is one thing you need to know about these railroads Joe. Once you plant them and add water they tend to grow. You’ll be spending many hours negotiating more ROW :slight_smile:

#19

That is a good looking design with lots of switching around fun built in.
I do like the ideas such as adding insulators to that reverse loop just in case Joe wants to run a brand new loco before it gets converted to batteries or if a friend brings a track powered loco over.
Another good idea I second is to just start laying track and see where it takes you. Don’t be worried to alter the plan to suit your sight and your needs.
I would certainly recommend creating some sight blocks with tunnels or perhaps a “cut” through a rock pile. Be sure you can reach into a tunnel to easily grab derailed equipment or build a access hatch. Cuts are notorious spots that collect any manner of wind blown debri so keep that in mind that you will probably need to clean it out before any train is run.
A train that disappears from view adds depth to a layout and a bit of mystery as to “Where is it going?”
Even though your spot is flat you can still build up a mountain or hill and don’t forget you can dig down as well Joe to make a dry river bed. It will give your RR a excuse to build a bridge or short trestle. Trains look great going over bridges.
Happy RRing
Todd

#20

Thanks, gang. Lots of good ideas to mull over. I’m not going to power the track. From now on, it’s battery for me. If a guest comes over, I’ll give him a loaner loco, if his is track powered. BTW, the one thing that drove me to battery power is that with track power, a derailment often blew the fuse in my Aristo transmitter, which was located out in left field, so to speak. With battery power, if anything derails, I just rerail it.

Lesse, can’t pile dirt against a wall, because it’s a fence and already on its last legs (termites, etc). Boulders: yes, though not too big. As I said I need something along the back straight to give the track an excuse to curve. As of this morning, having plowed through another Kalmbach track plan book, I’m thinkin’ maybe a wye (cha-ching!), 'cause they look kinda cool. The right track continues along the fence, left heads downward diagonally, as suggested by many of you, to hook up with the front set of tracks. Todd, I like trestles, but am saving that idea for when I build my “big” railroad in the other part of our yard. Someday. Maybe.