Large Scale Central

Frustration... track power and a big hauler

Well … tried to run trains today with the granddaughters… a.) they weren’t very interested, and … b.) I could not keep the damn things running!

I know I have a low end starter engine, but it’s really frustrating to work through the cold joints and then have 2 different big haulers run about 10 laps well and then start acting up stopping and starting kind of at will, and changing speeds at different points at different times on different laps, and derailing about every second or third lap at different points…. Suffice it to say I was really hot… both from the sun and my temper was getting away from me….

I have stainless track with splitjaw clamps, and after resetting a couple (several) of dirty joints, had nearly 25V DC any where on the track so I’m thinking it’s the big hauler engine. I do have a couple of switch issues with some aristo wide radius units but I think I have the info to deal with them. However, the engine issue, well it just could be something simple or something I just am not going to have a clue on since this is the first train in 40+ years.

I know I’ve seen a thread or two on Big Hauler upgrades of improvements, but none of my searches got any hits. Help!! I know others have done the hard work to make these engines better, I just need to get to the information.
Thbanks in advance…

Mark

Woo-Hoo!
Here’s one for TOC.
Right up his alley.
Mark, you’ll get your answer soon.
BTW, I ain’t a Bachmann expert, but 25V is a bit much. I’d be looking for real smoke to come out of it soon. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

jb

John Bouck said:
Woo-Hoo! Here's one for TOC. Right up his alley. Mark, you'll get your answer soon. BTW, I ain't a Bachmann expert, but 25V is a bit much. I'd be looking for real smoke to come out of it soon. :) :)

jb


Runs OK with the set transformers which is 15v from memory, competing with the TGV at 25v. Mine run more realistically on 12v.

Dirty wheels?

Mark said:
Well … tried to run trains today with the granddaughters… a.) they weren’t very interested, and … b.) I could not keep the damn things running!

I know I have a low end starter engine, but it’s really frustrating to work through the cold joints and then have 2 different big haulers run about 10 laps well and then start acting up stopping and starting kind of at will, and changing speeds at different points at different times on different laps, and derailing about every second or third lap at different points…. Suffice it to say I was really hot… both from the sun and my temper was getting away from me….

I have stainless track with splitjaw clamps, and after resetting a couple (several) of dirty joints, had nearly 25V DC any where on the track so I’m thinking it’s the big hauler engine. I do have a couple of switch issues with some aristo wide radius units but I think I have the info to deal with them. However, the engine issue, well it just could be something simple or something I just am not going to have a clue on since this is the first train in 40+ years.

I know I’ve seen a thread or two on Big Hauler upgrades of improvements, but none of my searches got any hits. Help!! I know others have done the hard work to make these engines better, I just need to get to the information.
Thbanks in advance…

Mark


Mark,

Try this

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html

There’s a chapter called “What to Do in Case of Total Devastation” :wink: :slight_smile: :wink: which gives the true tip!

If you have actual Big Haulers, I would suggest that they get dumped in the parts bin and go to St Aubins or RidgeRoad Station and buy an Annie. That is an upgraded Big Hauler and a far better locomotive. You are just starting out and you need a positive experience.

Some problems that I know that may cause problems you have mentioned are gauge of the locomotive and wheels on your cars. I have found that the front truck can be out of gauge causing it to derail going through turnouts. If you are running your cars with plastic wheels then they will gum up the rails to the point that the locomotive will run jerky and at varying speeds. Change to metal wheels. Also you may want to get some dielectric paste and place it on the rail joints to improve contact with your split jaws. If you have more than a 50’ oval you should have more than one point where electricity enters the layout.

Mark,
you really need to elaborate on the Big Haulers that you have, e.r., roadname. This will be an indication of age of the items. The latest Big Hauler, version 5, has the same drivetrain as the Anniversary models. These are the only ones that I have had experience with. I find that adding tender wheel power pickups and feeding back through the tender light power cable, if the tender has a light, is the simplest way to correct a lot of power pickup issues. Locomotives, like the D&RG version (woodburners) which have no tender light, then you need to disassemble the lower cover and wire through from the tender to the loco chassis pickups. I do this on my many Anniversary and version 5 Big Haulers and have nothing but praise for the locomotives. Of course the earlier versions, I would follow Warren’s suggestion.

   I would also check continuity between the pilot wheels and motor and also check continuity between the drivers and the motor.

Based on this post at MLS;
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48051
and this post also at MLS;
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48050
where Mark states he had 25 volts on the track. There is a pretty fair chance he has a DCC decoder in the loco.

If so, that much voltage would possibly disrupt most DCC decoders and possibly cause erratic running.

TonyWalsham said:
Based on this post at MLS; http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48051 and this post also at MLS; http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48050 where Mark states he had 25 volts on the track. There is a pretty fair chance he has a DCC decoder in the loco.

If so, that much voltage would possibly disrupt most DCC decoders and possibly cause erratic running.


Tony,

Maybe or maybe not. The way I read that is “Fixed the connectors, then checked. 25VDC on all sections.”
That would indicated no-load voltage to me, considering that the BHs are supposedly “Suitable for 18VDC” that could be an interesting condition every time the engine looses contact and there is a no-load spike followed by an inrush of current when things are “normal again”.

OTOH if it is a DCC decoder (I doubt it! Remember he measured 25VDC, he’d have to set the VOM to AC in order to measure the DCC voltage), that could happen if it is a “less expensive” one.

HJ – thanks for the web site reference, just what I needed!! The BH’s don’t seem to be smoking yet, but the DL1000 puts out 28V DC at the track on it’s max setting at the back of the box. Given what your said in your last post in reply to Tony is there something physical that I should do to limit or reduce the voltage output ?? There is an adjustable stop on the faceplate of the PS that can limit the movement of the throttle control, and I’m thinking that should be enough to limit the output to 18VDC.

Any other ideas from the group?

Warren – We have had an exceptional amount of rain this spring and early summer, and I’m sure that with little or no landscaping the joints throughout the railway have gathered dirt/dust in any gap or crevice. The dielectric paste is on the list of…” If I’d only known… d*** I should have put it in/on the joints on the first go round of construction .”, but it is now on the shopping list for today!!

I only have one feed to the track today, but have conduit in the garden to allow placement of 5 to 6 more at various locations in both loops utilizing either splitjaw or aristo power clamps as connectors for 12 or 14 AWG stranded

Tim – The two BH’s I have are a Tweetsie and a D&RG Bumblebee starter set purchased from St. Aubin’s late last year. Upon inspection of the gearing and electrical the DRG is a “version 5”. I suspect the Tweetsie is to, but have not gotten the bottom off to see yet.

Tony – The 25V is unloaded with the power supply at max output when I looking for cold joints or dead spots.

I don’t have any DCC decoders installed so……???

Tony I know you’re an RC manufacturer, but what would you and I ask the rest of fellows here, what is the difference in start up cost for RC compared to DCC for say, 3 or 4 engines with onboard sound and control of possibly 8 to 12 switches? I know it’s probably a topic that has been broached in other parts of this site, and other forums and I’ll do a search accordingly or if its against forum policy to reply in forum (e.g. advertising/selling) email me at [email protected].

Again thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

mark

Mark:

Definition: Dielectric: An insulating medium between conductors.

I realize that you can find many folks who recommend using a dielectric or insulating paste in rail joints, but if you insist on putting something gooey in the rail joints, I would suggest a conductive paste, not a dielectric (insulating) paste.

Note that there are millions of miles of wiring of every type and voltage with billions of connections in virtually every corner of our existence that are simply cleaned and bolted together, or in the case of telephone circuits, crimped or friction spliced, without any gooey stuff in the joints. I’ve never understood the propensity for model railroaders to want to use some type of gooey substance and especially one that insulates. IMHO, this stuff just collects dirt and doesn’t provide any improvement in the necessary mechanical contact.

Also, measuring the voltage with no load is not much of an indicator. There can be a connection that will conduct voltage, but not sustain any load (current or amperage). That phenomenon actually increases as the voltage is increased, so testing with the PS at a high setting doesn’t really show the true condition of the connections.

Better to first make certain the locomotive wheels are clean and each set of electrical pickup wheels are supplying power to the motor, then run the locomotive around the track until it stops. Check the joiners at that point.

If your track won’t power the trains on DC, it probably won’t power the trains using DCC. That’s why my locomotives all use 100% self-contained battery power with RCS radio control and Sierra sound with real-time control. No track cleaning, no wheel cleaning, no programming tracks, no magic decoders, no computers. Just put the locomotive on the track and run the train.

BTW, my turnouts are pneumatic powered, using the EZ-Air system. A couple of special junctions are equipped with Llagas Creek high-level switch stands that the train crew operates at the site. The LGB electric switch machines required too much maintenance in the great outdoors. I don’t have any personal experience trying to making TOs work with DCC, but I wouldn’t expect the addition of complicated digital control to fix the fact that bugs and corrosion gum up the solenoid works.

Hope you are able to solve your problems; Outdoor model RRing really can be lots of fun!

Happy RRing,

Jerry Bowers

Jerry Bowers said:
Mark: If your track won't power the trains on DC, it probably won't power the trains using DCC. Jerry Bowers
Depends on the DCC decoders used and how you have it hooked up. You can use DCC with Track power only, Hybrid power, or on board battery power.

In this case it is problems with DC and since none of the backup power approaches apply to this case I suggest looking at the wheel pickups and wheels. Some of the Bachmann locomotives have very poor pickups. You will need an ohm meter to check it out but I have found several where the pickups did not touch the wheels in some wheel orientations.

So first check to ensure that the pickups are actually working. An ohm meter is best for this.

Then try cleaning the wheels using Alcohal and Q tips.

If the wheels are relatively ckean and the pickups actually attached the locomotive should work for you.

In the end some form of on board power source either as a primary source or a backup source will result in a lot better operation.

Stan Ames

Mark,

StainLess Steel is a very poor conductor of juice… You will need track feeds every 30’ to 50’… The conductive paste is good also…

BulletBob

PS Get the white paste as it will blend in better on your clothes & hands…

Bob Burton said:
Mark,

StainLess Steel is a very poor conductor of juice… You will need track feeds every 30’ to 50’… The conductive paste is good also…

BulletBob

PS Get the white paste as it will blend in better on your clothes & hands…


Bob, you are right, Stainless is a poor conductor of juice when compared to brass or nickel/silver. However, stainless with oxidation is a far superior conductor of juice when compared to either brass or nickel/silver with a similar amount of oxidation. That is why I only have to knock the pine cones off my 800 ft of stainless track before running my trains, where before stainless (BS), I had to spend at least an hour cleaning my 800 ft of brass track prior to running my trains, and even then, I was not assured of getting it right the first time.

I used only one feed for each 200-300 ft power block on the mainline, and one for each insulated siding.

I and a lot of other folks think that stainless is the way to go for track power. BTW, I am slowly changing over to battery power.

SteveF

btw, black grease is why mechanics and cyclists where black trousers and shorts. :smiley:

Stan Ames said:
In the end some form of on board power source either as a primary source or a backup source will result in a lot better operation. Stan Ames
Stan is correct: I forgot to mention that in addition to ". . . no track cleaning, no wheel cleaning, no programming tracks, no magic decoders, no computers . . .', on-board battery + RC systems do not require ". . . a backup (power) source . . ." for reliable operation.

I think DCC is a wonderful thing for folks who want to spend their time with digital controls, codes and all the other stuff that goes with it. One can spend large amounts of time and money with the attendant fun (or frustration) that still includes track connections, faulty wheel / power pickups, wheel and track cleaning, backup power sources, and all the other problems associated with plain old DC. Rather than simplifying, the added layer of digital control complexity just complicates the ability to simply run the RR.

BTW, I use home-fabricated wood carriers for my rolling stock and locomotives. These fit into a ledge behind my engine house (site: building is under construction) that aligns them with the track. The ‘rails’ in the carrier are just a couple of ‘in-gauge’ saw cuts in the wooden bottom. I run the locomotives out of / into the box under battery power + R/C control, put the box on my flat wagon and move it to indoor storage. If I need to service the locomotive or move it to longer term storage, I run it out of the carrier under battery power + R/C control. Even the long term storage rails are a couple of saw cuts in the table top or shelf. Try that with DC or DCC track power & controls.

I truly applaud Stan and the others involved for their large efforts in making the NMRA DCC standards come to fruition. I think that control system is great for the very large indoor railroads where lots of operators and locomotives are involved or where the interests of the folks involved are digital electronics and automated controls. I just don’t want all the attendant problems that come with operating track power outdoors. Doubly so with my shortline RR concept where the operators are viewed as actual train crews.

My apologies for taking this way OT from Mark’s original questions. I do hope he will find the solutions he needs and get his trains rolling!!

Happy RRing,

Jerry Bowers

and, if you want ONLY battery, to get into the rigamarole of dcc, decoders, handhelds…and still, signal has to go down the track.
What does one do when the track is under water?
I’ve run through it.
Packet transfer can’t be very good in muddy water.
If hybrid, and very dirty track, your dwell time will be so bad you’re going to need BIG batteries to do the job long enough, plus charge rates set high enough to keep them up…with commensurate pickup issues and surge current.

I would never, and I mean ever, get into that.
I do NOT want something that has more buttons and options than my cordless phone to run trains.
I don’t even own a cell phone. Not interested in button technology, nor knobs you cannot rotate in a zip-lock baggie in the rain.

Or handhelds you get to piggyback off your cordless phone.
Or handpiece tethers.

I read all this stuff, on all the forums, realized long ago “standardized” dcc isn’t.

Now, where did I put those 1K ohm resistors and my cheat sheets again?

Dave

I am surprised by your message. You sure have collected a lot of mis-information.

As you know, all control systems (including DC) have a signal component and a power component. In DC both are one and can not be separated. In most other forms of control the two parts can come from two different sources. In traditional DCC, most often used in HO scale, the signal and power come from the same source but it does not have to be that way. The term Direct DCC is now often used when the signal and power are not from the same source. For example you can have direct radio control with on board batteries and use a DCC decoder to control your locomotive.

Curmudgeon said:
and, if you want ONLY battery, to get into the rigamarole of dcc, decoders, handhelds......and still, signal has to go down the track. What does one do when the track is under water? I've run through it. Packet transfer can't be very good in muddy water.
I am going to have to admit I do not like operating much in heavy rain. Nothing to do with the control system used. I just do not find it fun. Not much mud on my railroad either as I tend to design good drainage. But when I do run in the rain the locomotives run just fine and I have no problems with getting the signal to the locomotive.

Why do you think the signal has to go down the track? Then again why not?

Most (but not all) of my locomotives get the signal through the track and as long as the locomotive has power the packet reception is close to 100%. The packet reception is actually better through the rail then through the air. Leaves, mud, dead frogs or water do not matter much to signal reception. I also get nearly 100% signal while the locomotive is in a 23 foot tunnel.

Quote:
If hybrid, and very dirty track, your dwell time will be so bad you're going to need BIG batteries to do the job long enough, plus charge rates set high enough to keep them up....with commensurate pickup issues and surge current.
Not sure how you came to that conclusion. I use between 8 and 12 AAA 900ma batteries in most of the locomotives with batteries. I use a 100ohm resistor for the charge circuit. Seems to work very well even on extremely dirty track and I never have to charge them. The only problem I had was running during an ice storm last year with the track totally coated with a layer of ice. After about 1/2 hour the batteries had fully discharged, they were not fully charged when I started. So yes if I want to run on ice for long periods I will indeed need larger batteries or will need an external charging jack. The supercap solution also seems to work well in most locomotives on very dirty track but it clearly has a shorter run time when no power is available. I like the use of smaller battery packs or supercaps because they are easier to fit in most locomotives.
Quote:
I would never, and I mean ever, get into that. I do NOT want something that has more buttons and options than my cordless phone to run trains. I don't even own a cell phone. Not interested in button technology, nor knobs you cannot rotate in a zip-lock baggie in the rain.

Or handhelds you get to piggyback off your cordless phone.
Or handpiece tethers.


Where in the world did you come up with that opinion? What in the world does the way one transmits the control signal have anything to do with the style of throttle you have in your hand?

Each user has a preference for what they hold in their hand to control their locomotive. What I like you may not like and what you like I do not like much (yes I have run with one of your older throttles on a DCC layout).

But the point is who cares? Pick the handheld you like to use, such a choice is totally independent of the technology that is used to send the signal to the locomotive. I have a wide variety of throttles on my layout as my operators have different preferences. The choice of throttle has absolutely nothing to do with DCC or any other type of control. Any throttle type can be adapted to most any form of control.

Quote:
I read all this stuff, on all the forums, realized long ago "standardized" dcc isn't.

Now, where did I put those 1K ohm resistors and my cheat sheets again?


Yes indeed with over 30 manufacturers producing product, there can be some interchange problems from time to time. Not much different then some of the wheel and track interchange problems that sometimes arise. But there is clearly a lot more interchange and choice of product between different manufacturers using DCC then there is in other forms of control

It is pretty clear that in the future locomotives will start having more internal electronics in part to reduce the wiring and improve the performance. DCC is one very good technology for controlling the motor, sound, and functions in the locomotive. This is not a threat to those that use direct radio control with batteries.

Simply plug in a radio receiver to the decoder and install your batteries. No big deal.

Stan Ames

PS For those going to Portland, I will be presenting a clinic on this topic at the Narrow Gauge Convention. I will demonstrate a locomotive with a decoder being run with track power and signal, track signal and internal power, and internal power with the signal via radio. The locomotive in this case automatically converts to the various forms of signal/power. Perhaps some on this forum will attend and report back.

Jerry Bowers said:
Note that there are millions of miles of wiring of every type and voltage with billions of connections in virtually every corner of our existence that are simply cleaned and bolted together, or in the case of telephone circuits, crimped or friction spliced, without any gooey stuff in the joints.
Back in my electrician days I used to build trains and mobile minig equipment, as well as steel mill maintenance. I used some gooey stuff once - on an 11kV flameproof mining substation.

But apparently all those connections suddenly failed - on the day battery/rc was invented :wink:

Kevin, a big difference between our connections and those of a professional installation as you refer to is that most of that is somewhat protected from the elements, whereas a lot of ours is out in the open, uninsulated, uncovered, soaked in rain, buried under snow, stomped on, pooped on, coffee, coke, bheer spilt on and an ungodly number of other contaminants it’s subjected to. Higher amperages at higher voltages can burn through a lot of corrosion whereas our low amperage, low voltage will not. Add to that locomotives with poorly designed electrical contacts/pickups and it’s a miracle that some of these even run.

Warren Mumpower said:
Kevin, a big difference between our connections and those of a professional installation as you refer to is that most of that is somewhat protected from the elements, whereas a lot of ours is out in the open, uninsulated, uncovered, soaked in rain, buried under snow, stomped on, pooped on, coffee, coke, bheer spilt on and an ungodly number of other contaminants it's subjected to. Higher amperages at higher voltages can burn through a lot of corrosion whereas our low amperage, low voltage will not. Add to that locomotives with poorly designed electrical contacts/pickups and it's a miracle that some of these even run.
Warren,

You forgot to add that some of the connections made by GRRs are a bit suspect in the first place, check any of the fora for how people solder feeder wires to rail and you will know what I mean. The stuff you mention is mostly consequential hinderances piled on a job that wasn’t up to snuff in the first place.

I didn’t want to hurt anybody’s feelings…:lol:

:stuck_out_tongue: