Large Scale Central

Forney makeover

Modeling
#1

While at York I got a good deal on an LGB Forney with a passenger car and a boxcar. The engine was green and although a nice color it just did not fit the logging look im after. I wasted no time at all. I got the paint brush out and painted away. I ended up using a brush because I was not crazy about trying to take the engine apart plus a brush gives it a used look especially once weathered (at least I think so). Most of the engine was painted black. I left the roof and boiler alone. I took the front bumper off and added a wooden one (im not sure if im keeping the current one I made or just put a flat bumper on without the steps). I also added some wood on the steps. Im going to add some detail like brass piping, real coal load and other details. Last will be some weathering. So far here is what I got done. Any other ideas? LGB lovers are going to hate me. LOL Oh and the guy is going to be replaced with something bigger.

#2

I like it quite a lot already. You ought to give the Monson engines a looking at for inspiration … see http://photos.nerail.org (look under Maine Narrow Gauge) if you haven’t already…

Matthew (OV)

#3

Oh, the horror…

When you said you bought a Forney and were going to bash it, I thought you came into some cash and got the new Bachman Forney. I thought that bashing a $700 loco really took guts. But now I see you have wimped out and are only bashing a bargain basement orphan.

In any case it looks great Shawn.

#4
Jon Radder said:
Oh, the horror....

When you said you bought a Forney and were going to bash it, I thought you came into some cash and got the new Bachman Forney. I thought that bashing a $700 loco really took guts. But now I see you have wimped out and are only bashing a bargain basement orphan.

In any case it looks great Shawn.


LOL I could have gotten two LGB Forney’s for the price of the Bachman. Plus a much more reliable engine then the Bachmann.

#5

Looks good Shawn

#6
Shawn said:
So far here is what I got done. Any other ideas?
Are we gonna go down this road again???? :)
#7

Shawn,
Looks good with the steps.
Ralph

#8

Looking good Shawn (this and the coal bin).
Forney suggestions - I think the domes and smokestack are a touch bit tall giving it a cartoonish feel. Also, the rear light would have more likely been on the rear of the water tank.

-Brian

Sorry I missed you at ECLSTS! Try to do Saturday next year so you can stick some stuff in the model contest.

#9
Brian Donovan said:
Looking good Shawn (this and the coal bin). Forney suggestions - I think the domes and smokestack are a touch bit tall giving it a cartoonish feel. Also, the rear light would have more likely been on the rear of the water tank.

-Brian

Sorry I missed you at ECLSTS! Try to do Saturday next year so you can stick some stuff in the model contest.


Thanks Brian good suggestions. Now that you pointed out the domes I can see how much larger they are. (give me more work LOL) I was hoping to see you on fridsy and meeting you as well. Next year i plan on staying both dsys. If you are ever up my way stop by.

#10

I just did some calculations off my own LGB Forney and came up with a ‘cut-down’ of about half an inch/12.7mm on all the sticky-up bits - using #4 as a rough guide. Now I’ve seen what a great job you’ve begun on yours, I’m going to do the same to mine, too. Building up the bunker seems easy enuff, as well, but I’m going t oleave the cow-catcher on mine.

Razor saws at the ready…shouldn’t be too much of a task - a care set of cuts, smoothing off the cut edges using a straight-edge to keep it all level, and then the positioning of an interior ‘flange’ to keep everything lined up while the Goo sets up.

Need to do something fierce about the engineer though, so I’ll be looking this next weekend at the Stoneleigh 16mm show - BTW, you DO know that the LGB Forney is 1/19th scale, eh?

Besp

tac
www.ovgrs.org

#11
Brian Donovan said:
I think the domes and smokestack are a touch bit tall giving it a cartoonish feel. -Brian
Now that Brian points that out, I agree. Hone your razor saw skills and remove a section of each, and it will look much better.
#12
Jon Radder said:
Brian Donovan said:
I think the domes and smokestack are a touch bit tall giving it a cartoonish feel. -Brian
Now that Brian points that out, I agree. Hone your razor saw skills and remove a section of each, and it will look much better.
When I cut the domes what is best to cut from the bottem or the middle? I tried to take them off but dam they wont budge.

Tac. I thought the LGB Forney was 1:24th with probably 1;20 details. I took the engineer out of mine and ordered a woodland scenic. Should add another inch or so. Im also replacing the bell and whistle with metal ozark ones. The plastic piping is being replaced with brass.

#13

I’m the wrong guy to ask. Personally, if I had no one to tell me, I’d make the first cut on the domes where the size changes, then after removing a dome, slice a bit off that. Keep things square and they should go back together with minimal filling required.

Bart is the master of slice & dice. Maybe he’ll chime in.

#14

Cut the domes where the diameter reduces - carefully. After you have cut them off, cut a half inch wide length of masking tape and wrap it around the dome and use the bottom edge of it as a cutting guide. You can even it out on a flat piece of glass with a sheet of W&D taped down to it. Then, cut a strip of plasticard about half an inch wide that will fit inside the trimmed piece - this will not only centre it back in position on the dome base, but also act as a good ‘key’ to the adhesive that you will be using to join it all back together.

If you prefer the look of brass to the shiney silver finish you’ll get with Ozark bits, then Trackside Details makes the bits you’ll need there. they polish up really well - if you are into polish, since they are actually made of brass in the fust place.

tac
www.ovgrs.org

#15

Terry,
You stated that the LGB Forney is 1:19? So someone measured it against a set of plans or a prototype and this is the scale they came up with? Interesting. I’ve never really thought they were that big, but larger than a 1:20.3, sure makes it a model of a small engine.

#16

What is the best stuff to use to fill the gaps in case i cut the domes uneven?

#17

Squadron Putty. Its almost like thick primer. You get it at an auto parts store.

#18

Thanks Ric. I managed to cut a half inch on both domes and fitted them on. The only bad part was each dome has a lead weight in it. I cut the larger one down and put it back into the dome but the smaller dome I was unable to fit back in. Even without those weights the engine still had some weight to it. Once the domes were fitted I had a little gap but not bad. The dome in the picture was just sitting on top, not glued down so the gap is larger then when pushed in. I also painted the bumpers and sanded them lightly to give a more weathered appearance and I also added real coal to the load and did some light weathering. Still a lot to do mainly cosmetic.

(http://i43.tinypic.com/2q2lk4h.jpg)

(http://i40.tinypic.com/16hrjo2.jpg)

#19

Much better. Now do the same to the stack. Make your first cut just under the ferrule (fancy part) - or if it comes off, even better, you’ll only need 1 cut then.

It’s so much fun directing other peoples work :smiley:

#20
Jon Radder said:
Much better. Now do the same to the stack. Make your first cut just under the ferrule (fancy part) - or if it comes off, even better, you'll only need 1 cut then.

It’s so much fun directing other peoples work :smiley:


LOL Thanks. I will take all the advise I can get. Only makes me better at this stuff. The problem with the stack is the smoke unit is in it and the stack does not come off The smoke unit does not come out from the top. Might have to take boiler off. Any easier way to do this?