Hi Korm,
I’ve heard that about spikes lifting, as Jon mentioned, but not screws. It’s standard decking construction in this part of the world so hopefully no issues. I’ll keep an eye out tho.
Cheers
N
Hey guys,
For anyone who’s done a raised ladder roadbed - how did you keep ballast in place? Or did you even bother?
Closest thing I can think of is to put some windbreak cloth or similar down.
Cheers
N
Neil,
As much trouble as it may be, stretching that cloth out under the raised roadbed going from outer edge of frame work to outer edge of frame work, would provide you with a slight base for whatever scenery effect you might find need for. And a raised edge board ( set to almost same height as roadbed would contain the effect. JMHO-YMMV 
Hi Neil,
I can picture a mesh of some sort (like what you showed) to retain the ballast from falling through, and taller additional thin strips of board (?) acting as a curb for lateral retention (and as a further keeper for the mesh).
But are you not going to put in scenery? Which could handle the lateral retention to some degree?
Or, perhaps use a stronger galvanized mesh or lath sheet, placing it over the subroadbed, then extending outboard of it with a small lip, plaster over those sideways extensions (but leave the center under the track open for drainage)? That direction might perform ballast handing, and provide an attachment for future terrain (if that’s in view).
Just recreationally blabbing, fwiw…
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I think I have seen similar mesh used in the UK - I probably read it in the G1MRA N&J.
Not sure what David meant by ‘under the raised roadbed’. I would add a lip on the frame, and stretch it from one side of the frame to the other OVER the spline roadbed, but under the tracks.
Sigh with extra periods for post count
[quote=“Cliff_Jennings, post:64, topic:83215, full:true”]
But are you not going to put in scenery? Which could handle the lateral retention to some degree?
Neil makes his own rocks like you have so that part is covered.
Geeze, I wonder where I have seen these ideas used before 
Thanks Guys,
Been pondering some of those ideas too. 
I did stretch some of the windbreak underneath both roadbeds at first. Looked great until I added some trial ballast and the whole thing bulged down under the weight. Options on that one are more supports under the roadbed to hold it in place - probably lots as that stuff is actually quite stretchy. Or some kind of glue??
So, over the top was my fail-over choice. That was a trial, so yes to strips of wood to secure it better and do the lateral thingy . Galv staples are never going to last… I hear you on the height.
Not sure I’d like it across the gap - see above, really stretchy - plus there would normally be a small controlled trough in the ballast for drainage. Might have to do a trial.
If you look carefully in the pic you’ll spot a strip of skin shredder I tried to wedge in between the tracks. Still an option in play - once I find my leather gloves… That’d support and allow some shape for whatever the ballast lies on.
Hummm, more experiments ahead…
On that note, I cast a test tunnel entrance last week using the rubber molds to give a rock look to the inside of the tunnel.
Will de-mold on the weekend.
Cheers
N
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Well, instead of laying some track this weekend I had to start ripping timber to relay the bench ladder.
It’s not just horizontal movement… 
Movements is mostly on knots. Pretty much straight when it gets wet, pretzel after it dries. New version is a 3 spline - that construction seems to be ok under the same cycles.
Meh.
Cheers
N
I was having similar issues with my cedar spline and I ended up slowing replacing it with PVC strips after I first tried to plane it flat again.
Rick and I have similar weather patterns but for some reason he doesn’t have issues like this.
Thanks Craig,
Kind of nice to know that I’m not alone - although I was thinking cedar would perform much better.
I’ve never seen PVC trim in the hardware store in NZ, I’m guessing that since it’d be imported the price point would make it unsaleable. I remember swapping PVC pipe pricing with Dirk while he was building and we were 3 -4 times higher - and that was high volume product.
Cheers
N
I’m on the West Coast and we definitely don’t have the same selection of PVC products as folks on the east coast. But then again they don’t have cedar either. 
Maybe thicker splines would reduce warping? I made mine around 1/4" but I think Rick does his around 3/4?
or redwood, dangit… 
Since Neil mentioned the deformation occurred around the knots. I would be more prone to use shorter strips that are knot free or as they note them in the higher grades of lumber, small tight knots may not cause an issue but the one that Neil pictured spanned the width of the one slat. Again JMHO YMMV
Thinking the same Dave - any knot that breaks an edge will be cut out. Only if it’s small and both edges clean will I think of keeping it. Going to be low timber utilisation for sure but no way am I doing this a third time!
Wonder if it’s related to ‘Construction Grade’ lumber that Rick uses? Although all the lit I’ve read states knots aren’t a significant factor in Machine Stress Grade timber (larger dims tho…).
I watched a huge redwood up the road be felled and turned into firewood last year. Things that make you cry…
Neil ,
For what you are modeling does it really matter ?
Honestly figure out how you would like to hold your back fill under the ladder and let it go.
Then back fill it just like the 1:1 used to do “back in the day in the hood”. The backfill (ballast) is huge when it come to track support and longetivity. It’s only my opinion and had I known this 15 yrs ago my track would be in better shape.
I personally prefer limestone (just like most 1:1 still use today) in my area I prefer what they call crusher fines or stone dust .
It’s Flaxton Creek Railway (correct)?
Now if you wanna play with Amtrak on the East Coast that is a different story! However what dumbass models Amtrak though as it’s garbage!
However I wonder if you have ever seen this …
Editing for how many times can I say “back” in a paragraph or sentence for the gramatical folks here.
I loved loved Ken like he was my father and old enough to be as well !
Anyway back to Flaxton Creek Railway Build Log …Sorry fir the intrusion Neil loving the posts!
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Not all Cedar is created equal, and you have to try to stay away from the Sap Wood and cut out the bigger knots as has been suggested. I use 3/8ths inch for the splines. Also I think the blocking makes a difference, I use 6 inch blocks every 12 to 15 inches spaced so I can hit the framing below with screws.
Some types of available Cedar here, ( I use Western Red Cedar ) I have no clue what might be available in NZ.
Very true - tks for the nudge Rooster. OCD dialed back a fraction…
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