I haven’t decided if I like this topic or hate it. But Its a good way to keep us honest and I am glad to see there are a few others of us that have as similarly long list as I do. So I will add my list. And by no means will this be an exhaustive list. But it will encapsulate the ones I want done the most.
The Hecla Complex (big task)
The battle loco/rocket launcher
STMA GP9
Steam Donkeys
Tin Turtle
2-4-0 Trinity
Reefer Tribute Car.
That’s enough for now.
That was a good one.
What??? what happened?
ran it after RailPro conversion, sat for summer took it out and everytime i try to get it to move it moves an inch and throws a overload warning. had it out for the open houses , sitting there idling and lights on but will not move. If I can get to a meeting or carve out some time there is a club member that is well verse on Aristo motor blocks.
Pete - Are you sure it’s really overloading? The auto current setting on RP is quite conservative. You can safely bump it up to the maximum the module will handle without issue The closer the setting is to the actual current draw, the better RP can detect shorts or overloads.
I would try bumping it up in 250mA steps and see if you can get it to move without throwing the error. I’m assuming the loco draws a lot on start-up, but may draw less once moving.
when I first added the RailPro, I had the motors wired opposite and they were trying to pull the loco apart, and I realized it when I finally heard gears grinding, ( I wear hearing aids so some sound misses me at times) I fixed it, so my guess is that I stripped or broke teeth and one is now jambed in place, I will give your idea a try , but it had run fine for the time right after it was put on the tracks with truck working together.
My current priorities:
My un-done list for 2022:
My un-done list for prior to 2022:
Pete - Yep, running the trucks with opposing polarity could have done some damage. Might have something jammed in a gear. Upping the current setting to find out is still safe, LM might heat up a bit at higher draws, but it won’t self destruct.
OR - If you are going to take it apart anyway; power the trucks one at a time and see if one has a problem.
Good luck!
That last idea has some merit, but on reflection I put it on a block of styrofoam and it still did it. May try upping the power or looking into it more as something might not have transfered when I broke my original controller.
Jon, I think you need to add the “L” so I know you aren’t talking to me!
always wondered if you were a Pete or a Peter.
Or Petel, Peterl, Pelter, L’Pete… not sure where the L goes.
Right - I don’t think I’ve ever addressed Peter T as Pete 
Sorry I woke you up Peter. I’ll try and do better in the future 
Well, Mr Lassen calls himself Pete_L(assen) so I guess that’s where I’d put the L.
I’m not used to being called Peter, either. I use the PeterT to distinguish myself from all the other Petes, Peters, etc.
OK 'Nuff jokes. Back to your regularly scheduled program . . .
Isn’t this the entire existence of every man.
Gave up on that in high school
That’s funny. But a Peter and a trucker. . . I bet it was a few years after high school.
Okay, I’ll play…maybe posting a list will motivate me.
D&RGW 2-8-2 #1509 on Aristo running gear:
D&RGW Standard Steel Car transition era boxcar:
D&RGW short caboose #01108:
And of course there’s a small pile of projects NOT started, plus some mainline improvements and expansion to be done once spring arrive.
Cheers,
Matt
Been plowing through my list, and added a few things. Here’s the current unfinished list
Davenport to DCC (parts ordered)
Car Cards/Waybills
Coal Conveyors
Shay Battery (parts ordered)
Signal Bridge
Mine entrance (a’ la Alfred Brown Coal Company)
Transfer Caboose
Mine tram
Signal Boxes/electronics
Finish Climax wiring
Car Cards?
Are you switching from JMRI?
